Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[WhereNext]

the problem with Snowdonia is that is has a massive price now, on par with the LL heavier and 100% cashmere.

Ah, fair enough! I don't think I got a price quote on the Snowdonia, but I wasn't so wowed by it that I wouldn't choose 100% cashmere if it was the same price. I moved to China recently, so I'm still figuring out what cloths/makers have the big mark-ups and which do not (a "fun" game as one moves across countries). For example, if folks in the US think Fox is expensive, it's got nothing on the price here, apparently.

 

[jonathanS]

IMO Drapers Ascot bunch has the best browns of the comparable bunches.

Fox air has some awesome browns. But the drapers ascot has an excellent range of colors. Better, imo, than the British. But I think I prefer fox air for the hot days. Just my 2¢

 

[Concordia]

Looking for mid-brown lighter wait cloth for odd trousers. H&S Crispaire has been suggested to me (I believe I have it made up in mid/light gray and quite like it for hot summer days). So, Crispaire is the default but I wonder if there's a heavier cloth that remains airy.

Wool ideal but mixes are fine too.

Is the received view still that Fresco is nice but itchy if unlined?

Fresco can be a bit rustic, but it depends on which weight and your personal taste.

Depending on just what part of summer you are aiming for, maybe Smiths Abacus could work. For pure shedding of wrinkles, though, Fresco, Finmeresco, Air, and maybe still Crispaire are aimed more at this task.

 

[CrimsonWave]

Fresco can be a bit rustic, but it depends on which weight and your personal taste.

Depending on just what part of summer you are aiming for, maybe Smiths Abacus could work. For pure shedding of wrinkles, though, Fresco, Finmeresco, Air, and maybe still Crispaire are aimed more at this task.

I would add the Standeven Explorer and Alfred Brown x Merino Brothers to the list of good high twists. VBC/Drapers Ascot 4 ply as some others have mentioned too.

I haven't tried Harrisons Spring Ram or H&S Airesco but they look to have some nice browns too.

I find Fox City comparable to the Abacus and Harrisons Frontier, although Fox City and Abacus seemed hardier to me.

 

[067]

I would add the Standeven Explorer and Alfred Brown x Merino Brothers to the list of good high twists. VBC/Drapers Ascot 4 ply as some others have mentioned too.

I haven't tried Harrisons Spring Ram or H&S Airesco but they look to have some nice browns too.

I find Fox City comparable to the Abacus and Harrisons Frontier, although Fox City and Abacus seemed hardier to me.

Personally speaking, I find Harrisons Frontier and Fox City to be comparable, while Smith Woollens Abacus is a tier hardier, more into the Fresco/Spring Ram category.

I had Abacus made up for trousers, and find them to be even a hair scratchier than the ones made up in Fresco (both lined).

 

[bernoulli]

Fresco can be a bit rustic, but it depends on which weight and your personal taste.

Depending on just what part of summer you are aiming for, maybe Smiths Abacus could work. For pure shedding of wrinkles, though, Fresco, Finmeresco, Air, and maybe still Crispaire are aimed more at this task.

I find Fresco Lite much less itchy and perfect for summer. In fact, it can be a bit too light for summers in Scandinavia, for instance. I prefer the more rustic Fresco for those evenings when temperatures drop below those of winter in most of Brazil.

 

[Concordia]

In many respects, I prefer the 10oz Fresco to the 4-ply Finmeresco, much as some people sneer at the coarseness of the former. It holds up very well, and if it is too rough, just get it lined in front.

 

[Simon A]

"Coarseness" is relative. Until the 1930's, when fine-wool producing nations like Australia, Argentina and South Africa started to seriously respond to market demand with fleeces consistently less than 21 micron in diameter, the softest and coolest worsted fabric that could be procured was Super 70's. That is now considered a winter-weight "sports" fabric. Today's "rustic" Fresco is yesteryear's exotic lightweight silk satin knickers on the comfort front.

 

[ericgereghty]

"Coarseness" is relative. Until the 1930's, when fine-wool producing nations like Australia, Argentina and South Africa started to seriously respond to market demand with fleeces consistently less than 21 micron in diameter, the softest and coolest worsted fabric that could be procured was Super 70's. That is now considered a winter-weight "sports" fabric. Today's "rustic" Fresco is yesteryear's exotic lightweight silk satin knickers on the comfort front.

Sure, but we're now all a bunch of namby pamby sissy boys...we can't handle it if it doesn't feel like cashmere on our pudgy little bums.

 

[jonathanS]

"Coarseness" is relative. Until the 1930's, when fine-wool producing nations like Australia, Argentina and South Africa started to seriously respond to market demand with fleeces consistently less than 21 micron in diameter, the softest and coolest worsted fabric that could be procured was Super 70's. That is now considered a winter-weight "sports" fabric. Today's "rustic" Fresco is yesteryear's exotic lightweight silk satin knickers on the comfort front.

I like the hard wearing coarseness of fox air. Not sure about the original fresco.

If you don’t like the coarseness, finmeresco has a 2 ply twist with a nicer hand right before the 4plys in the same book. Also drapers has a 2 ply as well in their ascot book.

I haven’t had anything make up in the drapers 2 ply, because I’ve been happy with the results of the 4ply (which has better drape / weight). But, as I write this, I think I may try the 2 ply next.

 

[dench127]

Has anyone had Holland and Sherry 9522009 made up into trousers (or suits) before?

https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/9522209-seasonal-classics-fawn-whipcord

I'm curious how warm/cool and how yellow it looks irl

 

[The_Schmidt]

While visiting my tailor today, we went through most of the backlog. Turns out, there is plenty of work ahead...

Maison Hellard "La Dole" 100% linen limited edition, 360g/m, enough for a suit plus one additional trousers

Maison Hellard "Vieille vigne" 100% linen limited edition, 360g/m, for trousers

H&S 757505CP, Wool & Cashmere Flannel, 96% Super 160s Wool, 1% Cashmere, 1% Silver Mink, 325g/m, a trouser's length

H&S 9219019, Cashmere Pure Opulence, 100% Cashmere, 350g/m for a jacket

H&S Superflannel (got no number), 97% Super 120s Wool, 3% Cashmere, no g/m noted, but for trousers and my next project on the list

And I got one trousers length of this one for spring/fall:

(Not pictured are a trouser's length each from a light grey H&S 2021054 Serge & Solana Super 100s 270g/m and Maison Hellard "Cigare" 100% linen 330g/m)

 

[TweedyProf]

Saw Steed today in NYC and updating the fabric. Chose Fox Air for odd trousers in a darker brown, I believe this one (they had an older book with different numbering scheme):

FA16 : Melange Dark Walnut Plain Weave

This cloth is a plain weave on a dark walnut melange base. The brown tones are even combined with a char-blue, adding to the rich colour depth of this cloth. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply uptwisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant...

foxflannel.com

A lot of nice browns in Fox City book as well.

 

[baromatic]

In many respects, I prefer the 10oz Fresco to the 4-ply Finmeresco, much as some people sneer at the coarseness of the former. It holds up very well, and if it is too rough, just get it lined in front.

I’m with you on the 9/10oz fresco.
It is king for tropical climates. It’s a beautiful dry and airy 2-ply and I don’t associate it with coarseness.

Also, the variety for the fresco book(s) are leaps and bounds above finmeresco…. The offering triumphs with color and melange.

Although that 4-ply is a classic with the drape and finishing we aren’t talking anything interesting unless one fancies conservative suiting.

Above all else, we have what spills out of Canonico.

 

[Sfba]

Can someone comment on the differences between the 340g range and the 360g range in Drapers/VBC’s Lady Sanfelice flannel book? Beyond the weight, obviously…