Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]

I have a jacket made by Steed and have been very pleased with how it turned out. Fabric works well here in D/FW area from roughly April through Septeminer.

Does it drape well? I have an 8oz gab suit from Steed and I'm not totally satisfied with the fabric. Feeling a bit cautious about going with another cloth that's so lightweight.

 

[TexasDan]

It does drape very well. Will try to post a picture tomorrow.

 

[dieworkwear]

Currently looking to get a few new pairs of trousers and I'm looking at the Dakota book. I already have a few pairs of grey whipcords/ mottled ribs. But I'm curious if there's any place for grey cavalry twill in a classic wardrobe.

In my head, a mottled twill always looks more interesting and sportier. I like cavalry twill in beige, but curious if there's any use for it in other colors. For example, is there any situation where you'd reach for the top pair of trousers here:

Instead of a mottled grey twill, such as this?

 

[sugarbutch]

Mottled rib sounds like a menu item at a gentrified BBQ “joint”

 

[emptym]

I don't know. but it was somewhat normal for many people here to get garments in both those colors. I did the same and kind of regret it. If you use one of those blue Frescos, I recommend going with one or the other, and not do both. The colors are just too similar.

Weird, they're two of my most frequently worn pants.

In fact I'm planning to have only trousers made, in the 2 greys of the picture. They are in the lightest weight (high twist) Fresco quality.

Go for it. For pants, I do like the high twist better than the 2-ply.

Currently looking to get a few new pairs of trousers and I'm looking at the Dakota book. I already have a few pairs of grey whipcords/ mottled ribs. But I'm curious if there's any place for grey cavalry twill in a classic wardrobe.

In my head, a mottled twill always looks more interesting and sportier. I like cavalry twill in beige, but curious if there's any use for it in other colors. For example, is there any situation where you'd reach for the top pair of trousers here:


View attachment 1634593



Instead of a mottled grey twill, such as this?

View attachment 1634592

The first one would work well w/ a navy flannel blazer.

 

[ericgereghty]

Currently looking to get a few new pairs of trousers and I'm looking at the Dakota book. I already have a few pairs of grey whipcords/ mottled ribs. But I'm curious if there's any place for grey cavalry twill in a classic wardrobe.

In my head, a mottled twill always looks more interesting and sportier. I like cavalry twill in beige, but curious if there's any use for it in other colors. For example, is there any situation where you'd reach for the top pair of trousers here:


View attachment 1634593



Instead of a mottled grey twill, such as this?

View attachment 1634592

I think you’d be able to make great use of pents like that. Nice F/W stand in for Fresco.

 

[Butler]

What are peoples favorite spring/summer Loro Piana fabrics? I have jacket lengths of a navy hopsack from Caccioppoli and a brown/blue overcheck WSL from Caccioppoli (but I believe it is woven by Loro Piana) that I am looking to get made up this year from I Sarti, but am kicking around ideas for a third spring/summer jacket to be made in 2022

The navy silk/wool seersucker - the coolest I have ever worn!

 

[FlowableFill]

The navy silk/wool seersucker - the coolest I have ever worn!

This fabric?

If so, how does it drape?

 

[Butler]

This fabric?
View attachment 1635144
If so, how does it drape?

Not bad - and surprisingly keeps a press fold much better than expected! You can check out my IG for multiple pics.

 

[mockingboy]

hey there

if that top pair in light /medium grey is from the Dakota book I have it.

I find it hard to wear to be honest as the contrast of it makes it stand out a little too much for me. It’s almost something for like a southern Italian stile grey trouser but in a heavy weight.

i would look elsewhere from that top fabric but can’t speak to the others.
Mike

Currently looking to get a few new pairs of trousers and I'm looking at the Dakota book. I already have a few pairs of grey whipcords/ mottled ribs. But I'm curious if there's any place for grey cavalry twill in a classic wardrobe.

In my head, a mottled twill always looks more interesting and sportier. I like cavalry twill in beige, but curious if there's any use for it in other colors. For example, is there any situation where you'd reach for the top pair of trousers here:


View attachment 1634593



Instead of a mottled grey twill, such as this?

View attachment 1634592

 

[Concordia]

Grey cavalry twill has the advantage of being less fragile and fussy. The actual shade needs to be thought about. Too light, and-- as noted-- it can look like a fashion statement. Too dark and you've limited your top half to tweeds or sweaters. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

 

[dhoff10]

Gents could use some feedback. I'm looking to add a black suit to my wardrobe, mainly so I can have appropriate attire for funerals. However I would also like to be able to wear it for more dressed up social occasions that are less formal. I found a jet black hopsack that I think could work, but my concern is that weave may be too informal for a funeral. Is hopsack a complete no go for something that formal or is it not a big deal? Better options out there that can serve both functions? Don't think I have room for 2 black suits.

Also I know no one gets excited for VBC, but it always seems to be a good value. But I don't mind paying up if the cloth is actually better.

 

[bdavro23]

Gents could use some feedback. I'm looking to add a black suit to my wardrobe, mainly so I can have appropriate attire for funerals. However I would also like to be able to wear it for more dressed up social occasions that are less formal. I found a jet black hopsack that I think could work, but my concern is that weave may be too informal for a funeral. Is hopsack a complete no go for something that formal or is it not a big deal? Better options out there that can serve both functions? Don't think I have room for 2 black suits.

View attachment 1635552

Also I know no one gets excited for VBC, but it always seems to be a good value. But I don't mind paying up if the cloth is actually better.

First, VBC is great cloth and will perform well for years.

Second, and lets just get it out of the way, you will be much better served by a charcoal or midnight blue suit than black.

 

[dhoff10]

First, VBC is great cloth and will perform well for years.

Second, and lets just get it out of the way, you will be much better served by a charcoal or midnight blue suit than black.

I've got a mid gray and a navy, and feel like I need at least one black before I start filling in the color shades, though a charcoal could work if it's dark enough.

Thanks for the reassurance on VBC

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Gents could use some feedback. I'm looking to add a black suit to my wardrobe, mainly so I can have appropriate attire for funerals. However I would also like to be able to wear it for more dressed up social occasions that are less formal. I found a jet black hopsack that I think could work, but my concern is that weave may be too informal for a funeral. Is hopsack a complete no go for something that formal or is it not a big deal? Better options out there that can serve both functions? Don't think I have room for 2 black suits.

View attachment 1635552

Also I know no one gets excited for VBC, but it always seems to be a good value. But I don't mind paying up if the cloth is actually better.

Dear @dhoff10,

Unfortunately I don't have VBC bunches in my disposal, but if the posted fabric is what I think it is, then it is a jacketing and not a suiting cloth; some gentlemen may choose not to pay much attention to this issue, but, believe me, it does matter!

Best,

Dimitris