Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[4r36]

Green is the future.

 

[reidd]

Someone care to explain to me what the ultimate blazer cloth is?

Fox Brothers serge.

 

[FPB]

Do you mean how to tell what fibers are in a cloth when you don’t have a reference like a tag, or are you asking how to know which fibers are best for which uses?

Neither actually Maybe the information I'm looking for does not exist. I'll see if I can clarify. I am curious how fabric content is determined, for say a jacket. A jacket comes to mind because I see so much variation in the fabric content. Some factors that obviously go into that decision are what season is the garment intended for (e.g.. heavy wool for winter), what is available, the intended price of the jacket, etc. However, the first thing I do when I pick up something before I try it on is look at the fabric content. It is a mystery to me how some garments are a blend of several types of fabric. I mean, why is one jacket 70% silk and 30% cashmere whereas another might be a 50/50 blend? How did the manufacturer of the cloth and the garment arrive at that decision? Why did they decide to have 30% of material A, but 70% of material B?

 

[Cantabrigian]

Then again, it’s green. So you gotta he into that haha.

 

[jalebi]

Neither actually Maybe the information I'm looking for does not exist. I'll see if I can clarify. I am curious how fabric content is determined, for say a jacket. A jacket comes to mind because I see so much variation in the fabric content. Some factors that obviously go into that decision are what season is the garment intended for (e.g.. heavy wool for winter), what is available, the intended price of the jacket, etc. However, the first thing I do when I pick up something before I try it on is look at the fabric content. It is a mystery to me how some garments are a blend of several types of fabric. I mean, why is one jacket 70% silk and 30% cashmere whereas another might be a 50/50 blend? How did the manufacturer of the cloth and the garment arrive at that decision? Why did they decide to have 30% of material A, but 70% of material B?

I've had similar thoughts and questions. In particular, how a fabric weaver decides the percentages on those wool-linen-silk mixes. I've seen such varied proportions of that particular combination that it feels like they just randomly put together threads and see if it works!

 

[zr3rs]

Neither actually Maybe the information I'm looking for does not exist. I'll see if I can clarify. I am curious how fabric content is determined, for say a jacket. A jacket comes to mind because I see so much variation in the fabric content. Some factors that obviously go into that decision are what season is the garment intended for (e.g.. heavy wool for winter), what is available, the intended price of the jacket, etc. However, the first thing I do when I pick up something before I try it on is look at the fabric content. It is a mystery to me how some garments are a blend of several types of fabric. I mean, why is one jacket 70% silk and 30% cashmere whereas another might be a 50/50 blend? How did the manufacturer of the cloth and the garment arrive at that decision? Why did they decide to have 30% of material A, but 70% of material B?

Why do pancake recipes contain different mixtures of wheat, egg and sugar? Because each of the components has some properties, but ultimately it's up to your taste.
In fabric there is much more to composition than just the percentages. Each of wools and silks can have longer or thinner fibres, can be spun with different tensions, and can be finished differently. That is why wool flannel is something completely different than worsted wool.
Ultimately, it is why this thread exists, because each mill has different recipes and different people have different tastes. You will not get the experience without trying.
Put another way: fabric composition is just one possible indicator of what makes a fabric.

 

[cchen]

Why do pancake recipes contain different mixtures of wheat, egg and sugar? Because each of the components has some properties, but ultimately it's up to your taste.
In fabric there is much more to composition than just the percentages. Each of wools and silks can have longer or thinner fibres, can be spun with different tensions, and can be finished differently. That is why wool flannel is something completely different than worsted wool.
Ultimately, it is why this thread exists, because each mill has different recipes and different people have different tastes. You will not get the experience without trying.
Put another way: fabric composition is just one possible indicator of what makes a fabric.

This is textile engineering in a nutshell. I'm not a textile engineer but have spent considerable time around some, and they think about a final fabric, the look, feel, handle, durability, etc + what kind of tests it needs to pass, and do tons of R&D to determine the right material mix, weight, dying, weave, etc. The profession is not very big anymore in the US (probably dropped way down when the textile industry left the US) but in Europe and Asia quite a few people still study this.

 

[Concordia]

Fox Brothers serge.

That might be very good, but in this context it is an LL project from Lovat Mill. I do like the idea of Fox serge, though, especially now that the Lesser 16oz book has nothing left.

 

[The Chai]

Hainsworth has a good 16 oz serge

 

[konstantis]

What is the members opinion about the heavyweight fresco of Minnis . I have an odd pant from Minnis 510279 14/15 oz . It is a lovely cloth but i was wondering how useful would be a suit from such a heavyweight Fresco ?

 

[Concordia]

If you don't hate the trousers, the suit might be OK. I'm not inclined to take the risk. Fox Air has a somewhat heavy pattern or two which might be better.

 

[JayDee90]

What is the members opinion about the heavyweight fresco of Minnis . I have an odd pant from Minnis 510279 14/15 oz . It is a lovely cloth but i was wondering how useful would be a suit from such a heavyweight Fresco ?

Wondering the same as I contemplate using the heavier weight fresco for travel suiting.

 

[konstantis]

If you don't hate the trousers, the suit might be OK. I'm not inclined to take the risk. Fox Air has a somewhat heavy pattern or two which might be better.

I have already 2 suits from the Fresco - Mohair at 315 gr , is the heaviest except from the 14/15 oz.

 

[Concordia]

Yes-- the 10oz is great stuff for those who aren't afraid of looking like a garbage man. But the 14/15 is a slightly different animal. Perhaps it breaks in well-- I don't know.

 

[aristoi bcn]

What is the members opinion about the heavyweight fresco of Minnis . I have an odd pant from Minnis 510279 14/15 oz . It is a lovely cloth but i was wondering how useful would be a suit from such a heavyweight Fresco ?

If you can bear the scratchiness of the trousers you will be fine with the jacket.