Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

Burgundy raw silk dinner jackets are also interesting. Esp if the burgundy has black flecks in it. Go well with the black lapels.

IMO a red silk dj gives me more waiter/bellboy vibes than a cream dj

 

[classicalthunde]

I don't know. If it were me I'd be more concerned with price and weight - I think all three sellers have pretty good reputations.

Fair, all are in the 350-370g range. Anglo-Italian and Fox Bros are in the same price range, with Marling and Evans being significantly cheaper.

In general I've become a little more interested in where the fabric is milled, since learning that similar patterns to the London Lounge offers can often be found in the Lovat tweed books at a fraction of the subscription cost.

 

[ixk]

Could anyone chime in about the effectiveness of different "tropical" wool suiting fabrics?
Looking to get a suit made for (very) hot environments while avoiding linen if possible, and was wondering if there was one mill that outperformed others in their tropical fabrics.
Dormeuil's tropical amadeus seems to have a good reputation, but I don't know much more than that.

 

[classicalthunde]

Could anyone chime in about the effectiveness of different "tropical" wool suiting fabrics?
Looking to get a suit made for (very) hot environments while avoiding linen if possible, and was wondering if there was one mill that outperformed others in their tropical fabrics.
Dormeuil's tropical amadeus seems to have a good reputation, but I don't know much more than that.

cant really comment on comparative performance since I only one a lot of trousers in Drapers Ascot, but for hot environments I would recommend looking at the following high-twist open weave suiting fabrics:

- Minnis Fresco
- Drapers Ascot
- Holland and Sherry Crispaire
- Fox Bros fox air
- Smith Finmeresco
- Dormieul Tonik

 

[Fonz4]

Can someone point me in the direction of a similar cloth?

View attachment 1372175

It is available through the new bunch un-dyed by M&E.

 

[aristoi bcn]

cant really comment on comparative performance since I only one a lot of trousers in Drapers Ascot, but for hot environments I would recommend looking at the following high-twist open weave suiting fabrics:

- Minnis Fresco
- Drapers Ascot
- Holland and Sherry Crispaire
- Fox Bros fox air
- Smith Finmeresco
- Dormieul Tonik

I'd add Dugdale's Tropicalair and New Fine Worsted ranges.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

hey, may I chime in: I am looking for exactly such a very dark burgundy, actually a very dark green too. Could you share?

Thanks!

a) For which season?
b) Jacketing or suiting fabric?

 

[Concordia]

LL is trying to get a subscription together for dark green blazer fabric.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

In general I've become a little more interested in where the fabric is milled, since learning that similar patterns to the London Lounge offers can often be found in the Lovat tweed books at a fraction of the subscription cost.

LL is trying to get a subscription together for dark green blazer fabric.

Caveat emptor.

 

[Concordia]

If you can find their ultimate blazer cloth quality in a book, please let us all know. It is quite amazing.

 

[aristoi bcn]

If you can find their ultimate blazer cloth quality in a book, please let us all know. It is quite amazing.

What would be the ultimate blazer cloth?

I think the wide rib Fox serge ticks all the boxes to be it.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Concordia,

I don't speak on my behalf, but it is for quite some time evident that no matter how "special" these runs are, this LL is hugely overpricing its offerings.

As far as a dark green blazer fabric in particular is concerned, if this is a winter-weight one, I suggest you to check the "Ongoing Bespoke Projects" Thread (some pages back), where I posted couple of photos of a fitting of such a FW SC in the making. It was an unfunded liability for some three years, an awesome Zegna Trofeo-Cashmere dark emerald green with a subtle herringbone fabric at 290grams.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[The Chai]

I just acquired 4 metres of 480 gram serge from Hainsworth as blazering material

 

[etostano]

Could anyone chime in about the effectiveness of different "tropical" wool suiting fabrics?
Looking to get a suit made for (very) hot environments while avoiding linen if possible, and was wondering if there was one mill that outperformed others in their tropical fabrics.
Dormeuil's tropical amadeus seems to have a good reputation, but I don't know much more than that.

The only wool fabric I’ve had that is noticeably cooler in hot/humid environments is H&S Cool Breeze, though admittedly I have less experience than others with forum favorite frescos

 

[yanagi]

If you can find their ultimate blazer cloth quality in a book, please let us all know. It is quite amazing.

I'm very interested in the potential LL dark green ultimate blazer cloth because AFAIK, it's hard to find a stock cloth elsewhere that's

• Dark green (much darker than Master's green) and
• "Heavy" (navy ultimate blazer was 400 gr/m)

Drapers has a dark green, but it's 280 gr/m. As @aristoi bcn mentioned, Fox has a very heavy serge, but it's navy instead of dark green.