The Japanese Bespoke Tailoring Thread

[__k]

I like Tailor Caid's double-breasted 4x2 blazer (example below), called the 'Newport blazer'.

I visited Tailor Caid recently and his 'newport blazer' caught my eye as well. The emerald lining is a nice touch.

Started a sport coat in a lighter gray herringbone Harris Tweed at the recommendation of Yamamoto-san. A fun guy to chat with and immensely generous with his knowledge and time.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

Dude that's so cool!

I've always thought that if I get anything from Tailor Caid that it would be a navy blazer, or a grey tweed herringbone sport coat, or maybe even a camel-coloured blazer.

Would love to know what details you chose! Classic sack suit cut with narrower lapels? Buttons? Pocket configuration? I like flapped patch pockets and I think I'd even get a patch chest pocket too.

 

[__k]

Would love to know what details you chose! Classic sack suit cut with narrower lapels? Buttons? Pocket configuration? I like flapped patch pockets and I think I'd even get a patch chest pocket too.

Went with the classic sack suit cut with 3-roll-2 button (I assume?) - I just asked for his house cut. We went with flapped patch pockets and chest patch pocket. Looking forward to the first fitting in a couple months.

 

[classicalthunde]

Went with the classic sack suit cut with 3-roll-2 button (I assume?) - I just asked for his house cut. We went with flapped patch pockets and chest patch pocket. Looking forward to the first fitting in a couple months.

Definitely looking forward to see this one in progress, a jacket like that from Caid is on my short list if I ever pull the trigger on one of his USA visits.

Did he happen to mention if the Harris Tweed was from a particular bunch or producer? or was it just what he had in store there. I've also seen him post a lot of grey Donegal suits, curious if he uses Molloy, W. Bill, Magee or some other producer for those...

 

[__k]

Definitely looking forward to see this one in progress, a jacket like that from Caid is on my short list if I ever pull the trigger on one of his USA visits.

Did he happen to mention if the Harris Tweed was from a particular bunch or producer? or was it just what he had in store there. I've also seen him post a lot of grey Donegal suits, curious if he uses Molloy, W. Bill, Magee or some other producer for those...

No mention of which producer this Harris Tweed came from (and I failed to ask). I walked in knowing I wanted something made in a gray tweed and might have also mentioned herringbone. He pulled this out along with samples of Harris Tweed fabrics for this season from his preferred producer or importer.

We also looked at some shetland tweeds and he pulled out some thornproofs but this Harris Tweed just stuck. I was looking for something lighter since I generally choose darker fabrics and I liked the softer contrast between the two colors in this one. Yamamoto-san mentioned he tries to buy up as much of this fabric as he can when he sees it released. This biased me a fair bit as well.

I also live in the US but on the other coast. Agree the Armoury trunk show prices are a tough pill to swallow..

 

[beltnbraces]

Just been looking at what has happened to the Yen over the last few weeks/years. It's now down 50% against the dollar/pound, which suddenly makes Japanese menswear a lot more affordable. Tailor CAID bespoke 2-piece now starting at around £1,500 in Tokyo!

 

[clee1982]

I remember for the longest time it was around 1 USD = 100 JPY… definitely taking my opportunities…

 

[KWang94]

Just been looking at what has happened to the Yen over the last few weeks/years. It's now down 50% against the dollar/pound, which suddenly makes Japanese menswear a lot more affordable. Tailor CAID bespoke 2-piece now starting at around £1,500 in Tokyo!

I'm planning a trip to Japan for my honeymoon and these rates are getting me super pumped. I'm there for 2.5 weeks but it's got me wishing I had more time there so I could potentially get a fitting in with a tailor. I guess I'll have to settle with Ring Jacket RTW?

 

[rbaker]

A good time to consult Japanese tailors. I just picked up my bespoke Ulster-style wintercoat from Takehara in Fukuoka; it fits beautifully. The fabric is from Scabal.

 

[epsilon22]

I'm planning a trip to Japan for my honeymoon and these rates are getting me super pumped. I'm there for 2.5 weeks but it's got me wishing I had more time there so I could potentially get a fitting in with a tailor. I guess I'll have to settle with Ring Jacket RTW?

You can do MTO or even MTM at RJ stores, they send the finished garments to your address but you deal with import duties and taxes. If you fit well enough and don't need major adjustments, it might be worth it. They also have the meister and Napoli lines with more handwork than the standard models, in case you are interested in those upgrades.

I believe CAID does MTM without fitting too, and I'm sure there are other options I'm unaware of.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

Just been looking at what has happened to the Yen over the last few weeks/years. It's now down 50% against the dollar/pound, which suddenly makes Japanese menswear a lot more affordable. Tailor CAID bespoke 2-piece now starting at around £1,500 in Tokyo!

I don't like talking about price, because I think that you should choose a bespoke tailor based on the tailoring style, design details and relationship of trust. Also, even at cheaper prices bespoke tailoring is still expensive for a lot of people, and ordering while overseas is not easy.

But that said, current exchange rates make it so much easier to try Japanese bespoke tailoring now. Local prices have not changed much in many years; any changes are mostly due to the cost of new imported fabrics. Japanese wholesalers and tailors continue to maintain prices for old/existing stocks of suit fabrics.

Looking at exchange rates now of USD1$ / JPY150+, and knowing the work, effort and dedication that a lot of Japanese tailors put into their garments, I really think it's a great time to try.

 

[KWang94]

You can do MTO or even MTM at RJ stores, they send the finished garments to your address but you deal with import duties and taxes. If you fit well enough and don't need major adjustments, it might be worth it. They also have the meister and Napoli lines with more handwork than the standard models, in case you are interested in those upgrades.

I believe CAID does MTM without fitting too, and I'm sure there are other options I'm unaware of.

Thanks for pointing that out! Didn't even consider Ring Jacket MTM. I guess my perception of Ring Jacket's cost is a little bit skewed by the armoury.

Anyone know the price of Ring Jacket/Tailor Caid MTM?

 

[epsilon22]

Thanks for pointing that out! Didn't even consider Ring Jacket MTM. I guess my perception of Ring Jacket's cost is a little bit skewed by the armoury.

Anyone know the price of Ring Jacket/Tailor Caid MTM?

RJ Meister RTW sport coats were anywhere from 150k JPY and up depending on fabric, when I went to visit their Aoyama store last year. I didn't get pricing for MTM, but I imagine a bit higher than that. Keep in mind that they may have adjusted their pricing to account for the relatively higher cost of imported fabric though.

Not sure about CAID, never visited him, but I recall reading somewhere 2-piece suits were like 300k JPY, might be old pricing and not sure if MTM or bespoke. Try looking at his website.

 

[__k]

Thanks for pointing that out! Didn't even consider Ring Jacket MTM. I guess my perception of Ring Jacket's cost is a little bit skewed by the armoury.

Anyone know the price of Ring Jacket/Tailor Caid MTM?

Starting prices for Ring Jacket MTM in Japan are available on their website.

オーダーシステム | RING JACKET（リングヂャケット） SINCE1954｜大阪にて創業した高品質スーツブランド

RING JACKETオフィシャルサイト。1954年大阪にて創業。『注文服のような着心地の既製服を作ろう』という想いのもとに、独自のパターンと職人技術、良質な素材、生地一枚で仕立てたような柔らかな着心地を追求するインターナショナル　クロージングブランド。

www.ringjacket.co.jp

I was quoted almost 1.5x the listed starting price for a MTM jacket using a fabric from the Fox Journey bunch. I don't believe they carry many (any?) fabrics anywhere close to the starting price.

 

[__k]

Another option, if you're going to Osaka, is MTM from Raffaniello. I have no experience working with Higashi-san but he's clearly well-liked.

Link to a post by another SF member who has a MTM jacket from Raffaniello.

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

After speaking with a number of tailors, I decided to go with Mr. Hitchcock for my suit. I have measurements scheduled for when he comes to Los Angeles in May. Very excited to meet him and begin the project. You will be in the best of hands. Any ideas for what you plan to commission?

www.styleforum.net