Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

Heavy Fresco is scratchy and warm in hot weather. Go for the lightest Fresco, or the High Twist section of the Finmeresco book. It will drape and crease well enough; if it doesn’t, it is because it is hot and humid out, which would leave you dead in a 3-ply Fresco suit.

Don’t forget the linen shirts!

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Will this be a useful suit after the wedding? Does it fit in with your wardrobe?
I don't think that cloth, in that style, for a wedding in that climate, is the best choice.
Would recommend going lighter in color and weight if you are only considering the wedding scenario.
Dove/pearl grey is seen more often for summer weddings in those climates.
Use a plain weave if you want it to be less dressy.
Get a wool/mohair blend if you want a sharp crease. This will look even better than the fresco. There are a variety of weaves, From super tight and smooth finishes to weaves similar in appearance to fresco weaves.
Use the Ascot book if you insist on a fresco type weave. The cloth is way better and has more advantages than fresco.
Sharkskin if you want a spectacular looking suit with a bit of presence. Do it SB and not DB.
Getting a batiste, voile or a cotton linen blend shirt will do the most for keeping you cool regardless of which cloth you select. Will have more cooling effect than just removing a bit of lining from the jacket

A light-grey DB suit is indeed less versatile than its darker SB counterparts for me, though still a useful suit after the wedding, given I work in a relatively conservative office and wear tailoring every day, just that i’m not senior enough to wear a light-coloured DB that often.

Colour wise def agree with you that a dove grey is better (I initially had the ideal of a light grey DB for a slight nod to morning suits). I’ve found Finmeresco has a dove grey that looks v nice: SW2730.

Am almost determined to use a high-twist, so browsing through different bunches. Mohair as well - i just felt that the 9-10oz fresco mohair (from HFW) which i’ve got a swatch of, felt a bit too insubstantial for trousers. Will check our Ascot as well.

Style wise, I still err towards a DB, as an SBPL suit is even less useful for me, and a notched lapel is somewhat too lougesuit-ish to me for a wedding.

However your comments really sparkled thoughts of the ‘usefulness’: Hey what if i do a navy mock leno DB blazer with gold button, worn with mid/light grey high-twist or cream trousers - less formal / special but very suitable for the seaside setting!

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Heavy Fresco is scratchy and warm in hot weather. Go for the lightest Fresco, or the High Twist section of the Finmeresco book. It will drape and crease well enough; if it doesn’t, it is because it is hot and humid out, which would leave you dead in a 3-ply Fresco suit.

Don’t forget the linen shirts!

Looks like the efficient frontier is really steeply skewed - a smaller loss in the body of fabric but i guess a big gain in the breathability!

And thanks for the linen shirt - i’m most certainly gonna use a white linen spread collar shirt.

 

[ZRH1]

It's suicide!

same here my tailor advised against and yet I am someone loving heavy fabrics!

 

[kolecho]

same here my tailor advised against and yet I am someone loving heavy fabrics!

It’s not just the weight but the prickliness which adds to its discomfort in hot humid climate. All fresco becomes more tolerable with frequent use after wearing in but these days I just reach for Drapers 4 ply. Smooth, drapes well and airy at about 12oz.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I guess the real challenge to me is whether Fresco 3-ply wears materially hotter than its 2-ply equivalent.

I have trousers in both. It does.

 

[yanagi]

However your comments really sparkled thoughts of the ‘usefulness’: Hey what if i do a navy mock leno DB blazer with gold button, worn with mid/light grey high-twist or cream trousers - less formal / special but very suitable for the seaside setting!

I have a Fresco III (510244) navy mock leno DB blazer with blue MOP buttons. It was my first bespoke commission, and I find it surprisingly useful in the following sense.

You might think a DB would stand out these days, but because the 510244 is such a conservative navy color, and the blue MOP buttons aren't eye popping, the jacket ends up being very reserved overall. So you can enjoy and wear it often without being "that guy."

No matter what you choose, congratulations on the wedding.

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[classicalthunde]

@Royal_Airforce I second the Drapers 4-ply, I have a pair of trousers in the mid-grey and holds a crease really well...it runs 370g too, so substantially lighter than the fresco option

I've also have some swatches of Lovat Bard, which is 3-ply 390g...its comperable but a little darker than the Drapers Ascot offerings

I'm not terribly familiar with the climate of Hong Kong, but it does work for me in a humid mid-Atlantic summers here in the states

 

[Concordia]

I'm not terribly familiar with the climate of Hong Kong, but it does work for me in a humid mid-Atlantic summers here in the states

Multiply NYC by three. Figure >100F and >100% rh.

 

[classicalthunde]

Multiply NYC by three. Figure >100F and >100% rh.

yea, I was thinking of my experience in DC/MD/VA, which is a bit more intense than NYC but also prob far less than HK

 

[Howfener]

I’m visiting Steed for a MTM single breasted suit soon. I’d like to get it made up with a classic plain navy worsted wool. It’s going to be for my wedding in northern England in July but, afterwards, for use as a nice business suit for important client meetings. Any ideas on cloth? Every RTW suit I’ve owned seems to go shiny after no time, so I’m worried about that!

 

[tchoy]

Does anyone have any recommendations for something between a mid-grey and a dark charcoal grey, similar to the London Lounge image below? They recently launched a new subscription of this in flannel, but I was interested in either a standard twill or fresco-like weave, preferably in a 10-13oz weight

That's is actually my suit it's the London Lounge mid-grey Mistral much heavier than the 10-13 oz you are after. The Mistral is a similar to a hopsack you can try the Smith's Woollen Steadfast or the Finmersco book.

 

[Nico]

I’m visiting Steed for a MTM single breasted suit soon. I’d like to get it made up with a classic plain navy worsted wool. It’s going to be for my wedding in northern England in July but, afterwards, for use as a nice business suit for important client meetings. Any ideas on cloth? Every RTW suit I’ve owned seems to go shiny after no time, so I’m worried about that!

More experienced members will be able to help you better but the H Lesser & Sons No.303 13oz and the Harrisons Oyster cloths come to mind.

The City of London and Classic Worsted from Holland and Sherry could also be an option.

Congrats for the wedding btw.

 

[classicalthunde]

That's is actually my suit it's the London Lounge mid-grey Mistral much heavier than the 10-13 oz you are after. The Mistral is a similar to a hopsack you can try the Smith's Woollen Steadfast or the Finmersco book.

its a great suit! yea, I dont want to go much above 13oz as i can wear that for most of the year...I was hoping they would that shade in Brisa quality rather than a flannel this go around...

 

[Royal_Airforce]

I have a Fresco III (510244) navy mock leno DB blazer with blue MOP buttons. It was my first bespoke commission, and I find it surprisingly useful in the following sense.

You might think a DB would stand out these days, but because the 510244 is such a conservative navy color, and the blue MOP buttons aren't eye popping, the jacket ends up being very reserved overall. So you can enjoy and wear it often without being "that guy."

No matter what you choose, congratulations on the wedding.

Edit (example)

Spoiler

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Yessss I’d say i’m never afraid to wear a DB navy blazer. And hats off to yours, Yanagi san!