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After years of buying RTW I’ve been dipping my toes in having some things made.
Starting to think of commissioning a fall/winter suit. It will be Neapolitan so my first instinct is something on the softer side of things - cashmere, flannel, etc.
I figured if anyone would have suggestions on mills/books I should take a look at or where to start it would be you guys. Any suggestions?
You prob don't want a pure cashmere suit because the trousers will easily bag. Hard to go wrong with a flannel suit, as it's a classic. You can find good flannel from Fox Brothers, Huddersfield Fine Worsted, Holland & Sherry, Drapers, and others. For people who are buying their own cloth, you prob want Fox or HFW, as they sell cut lengths to consumers. Otherwise, I would just take a recommendation from your tailor.
I also like "faux tweed" or "worsted tweed" suits for fall/ winter, but many will be more orientated towards the "enthusiast" side of things, not really the type of thing you'd wear to work. Harrison of Edingburgh has a good book called Glorious Twelfth. It's on the slightly lighter, smoother side of this category. I really like HFW's "Worsted Alsport" book, which has both checks and Donegal-esque types of fabrics. That's a little heftier.
You can also go for corduroy, but again, that's a bit more "enthusiast." I have a pure cotton corduroy suit made from Hunt and Winterbotham fabric. I like it, but if I could do it over again, would choose something like the wool-cotton cords in Loro Piana "Cotton Time."
Finally, I like cotton suits for fall. I recently bought a brushed cotton suit using a Zegna fabric. It's not quite moleskin, but it's not quite drill. It is also an elastane mix. I'm not much of a purist, so I'm fine with going for synthetic blends for comfort. If you find pure cotton too stiff, that can be an option. Otherwise, Brisbane Moss is the usual go-to company for cotton.