Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bill Dlwgosh]

^Thank you for the link, I do appreciate it. I think my favorite is this one, a medium weight. I wonder though how well this would work for a 'city' jacket?

 

[dan'l]

^ Looks nice, though personally I'd prefer a bolder windowpane.

Not sure if you intend to wear it indoors, but I have a sport coat made from Lovat's Teviot. I like it a lot, but find it a bit warm in the office at 430 grams. The Kirkton is 500 grams.

 

[dan'l]

Guess this might not be the best place to post this question, but I thought I'd try, since most of you guys here have lots of experience with different tailors (and this is supposed to be the general bespoke thread, IIRC).

I've had trousers made by a couple of different Italian tailors and noticed that the waist bands are very soft, with almost no liner (canvas?). As a result, the waistband sort of folds over onto itself when I bend at the waist. In contrast, the trousers I've had made by Hong Kong tailors all have a stiff waistband. Am I the only one who noticed this? I actually prefer the stiffer waistband (keeps my gut in place!) - anyone have any success asking Italian tailors to use a stiffer liner (If that's what it is) for the waistbands? Not sure if this is just standard practice or if personal preference plays a role.

 

[Concordia]

Among two Neapolitan data points that has been true for me also. I also prefer a bit of structure (SR not HK), but am fine with taking my belt seriously as a solution.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

^ It's standard practice amongst Italian tailors, and (I'm told) is primarily due to the fact that none of their local customers go belt-less. It's something that bugs me as well.

 

[venividivicibj]

Tweed =\ city jacket

 

[Tallcane]

I am new to the idea of buying fabric so excuse any dumb questions. Is suiting fabric acceptable for trousers? Is there some special designation for trousers so that one knows it is acceptable for trousers?

 

[dan'l]



Among two Neapolitan data points that has been true for me also. I also prefer a bit of structure (SR not HK), but am fine with taking my belt seriously as a solution.

^ It's standard practice amongst Italian tailors, and (I'm told) is primarily due to the fact that none of their local customers go belt-less. It's something that bugs me as well.

OK, so at least I am not alone in noticing this!

I also thought that it might have something to do with going belt-less. I dislike wearing belts and had my Italian tailors make high-rise trousers without belt loops (but with buttons for braces). They turned out quite well, except for the very soft waistbands. They are quite comfy, but I can't really stand how the waistbands fold over onto themselves.

 

[RogerC]



I am new to the idea of buying fabric so excuse any dumb questions. Is suiting fabric acceptable for trousers? Is there some special designation for trousers so that one knows it is acceptable for trousers?

Depends on pattern and texture.

Solids: grey is nearly always acceptable, you will not find a lot of love for odd navy trousers on this forum.
Stripes: no, unless you're going for formal morning wear
Checks: beware. I've had a few houndstooth and glen check trousers that went together with a navy blazer quite well, but your mileage may vary.
I'd also stay away from typically suity semi-solids, such as bird's eye and sharkskin weaves.

Texture:
Most suiting fabrics are acceptable. Milled fabrics, such as flannels, are more versatile because you can combine them with tweed as well. Gabardines and similar twills are also good. Overly slick worsteds restrict you to an equally slick sports jacket, which quite defeats the purpose.

Apart from this, most cloth houses will have books of cottons, cavalry twills, cords and the like that are usually used for trousers (although a cord suit is quite natty). All suiting cloth will be able to withstand being made into trousers (that's what they were made for), unlike certain jacketing fabrics, like Shetland tweed. And as always: where in doubt, ask your tailor.

 

[Tallcane]

Thanks. But, no difference in material type? Like some fabrics are acceptable for sport coats but not for trousers? Not from a style perspective but from the perspective of certain materials don't make trousers well.

 

[fassbinder]



OK, so at least I am not alone in noticing this!

I also thought that it might have something to do with going belt-less. I dislike wearing belts and had my Italian tailors make high-rise trousers without belt loops (but with buttons for braces). They turned out quite well, except for the very soft waistbands. They are quite comfy, but I can't really stand how the waistbands fold over onto themselves.

this has happened to me twice. on both occassions I asked for stiffer waistbands and it was not problem. the trousers were fixed and subsquent orders were done with the stiffer waist band. so it is certainly something italian tailors are capable of doing.

 

[dan'l]



this has happened to me twice. on both occassions I asked for stiffer waistbands and it was not problem. the trousers were fixed and subsquent orders were done with the stiffer waist band. so it is certainly something italian tailors are capable of doing.

Thanks for the feedback; this was exactly what I was looking for. How do they make the waistband stiffer? Is the "stiff" part made of canvas or another material?

 

[driving glove]

Searched the thread without success, but if this has been covered, apologies in advance. Looking for linen or a linen blend in a chalkstripe or awning stripe in tan and cream or olive and cream or similar, to make up as a summer jacket. Any source?

 

[Tony Montana]

Thanks for the feedback; this was exactly what I was looking for. How do they make the waistband stiffer? Is the "stiff" part made of canvas or another material?

It's usually horsehair canvas, yeah. I once had one of my trousermakers use some sort of cotton shirt collar interlining which is very stiff. It prevents the waistband from folding even better (only subjectively and the difference certainly isn't great) than horsehair canvas but it doesn't stretch at all so the pants aren't too comfortable after a proper meal. I don't wear them with braces, though, so they are quite fitted anyway – if you wear yours with braces and thus have the waistband cut looser then it might actually be a good option. But for me horsehair pretty much does the trick.
And then there is also something called "waistband stiffener". Haven't used that since none of my tailors have it and it's usually fully synthetic.

 

[breakaway01]



Thanks. But, no difference in material type? Like some fabrics are acceptable for sport coats but not for trousers? Not from a style perspective but from the perspective of certain materials don't make trousers well.

Cashmere comes to mind. Wears through too quickly for trousers and won't hold a crease.