Thoughts on New Odd Jacket Commissions (Meeting Joe of MyTailor on Monday)

[archibaldleach]

After having rebuilt a decent amount of my wardrobe (gym expanded me to a 40S from a 38S) and getting back to basics, I'm debating where to go next and am going to have Joe at MyTailor make me up a couple of things next week. I currently have (from various sources):

Suits / Formalwear

- Black SB shawl collar tuxedo
- Navy SB suit
- Medium grey SB suit

Odd Jackets

- Navy wool blazer
- Medium to dark grey herringbone odd jacket
- Brown herringbone tweed odd jacket
- Black and white houndstooth odd jacket

- Shade lighter than navy linen odd jacket
- Cream DB linen odd jacket

I find that I probably wear a suit once or twice a month while I tend to put on an odd jacket maybe twice a week. So I'm thinking more odd jackets is probably a good idea this time around. My budget is going to allow for either three odd jackets or one suit and two odd jackets at the most. I'm thinking of:

Dormeuil Jade Houndstooth (Scottie Sportsjacketing Book)

Hemrajani Collection Linen Jacket

Hemrajani Collection Brown Corduroy Jacket

Anything I'm overlooking / any of these look terrible / other recommendations? This will probably be my final round of odd jacket purchases before I start working on trousers and maybe get another suit once I have other basics covered so I'd appreciate some wisdom from the forum as I try to close out this part of my wardrobe for the next year or so. I've thought about a seersucker sport coat but I just can't justify paying to get one MTM and haven't found anything I love (Haspel, Brooks, Etc.) off the rack. I've also debated another tweed (solid or herringbone) odd jacket.

Thanks,

 

[Gus]

You have great basics. I would add 1) navy jacket with a simple plaid in browns, rust or tans. You can wear this with khakis or grey flannels. 2) you already have brown herringbone so go for a deep mossy green corduroy or windowpane cashmere/wool blend. These can also be worn with grey flannels and khakis. 3) I just met with Joe and he has some amazing seersucker, especially more sophisticated versions in navy and cream (verses bright blue and white). I would consider a simple suit and wear it all summer as separates.

 

[archibaldleach]

Thanks for the thoughts, PSG. I like the idea of a green corduroy jacket as I probably don't need two similarly colored brown odd jackets at the moment. I suppose one really can't have too many navy jackets, though I am trying to force myself to branch out a bit. Do you think that a navy odd jacket with a windowpane / plaid pattern is differentiated enough to count as branching out)?

Seersucker suit is tempting too. If I see something I like from Joe and the price is right (there's something that just feels wrong about spending too much money on an MTM seersucker suit), I may well pull the trigger.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Sounds like you have an excellent start. How is your trouser situation? I'd recommend another tweed, in some kind of big and bold pattern, and for summer a SC somewhere in the light brown/tan range. If you want to get adventurous, you might consider a more casual suit that you could wear on some of the days that you'd otherwise wear a SC. Something in a PoW check maybe.

 

[Gus]



Thanks for the thoughts, PSG. I like the idea of a green corduroy jacket as I probably don't need two similarly colored brown odd jackets at the moment. I suppose one really can't have too many navy jackets, though I am trying to force myself to branch out a bit. Do you think that a navy odd jacket with a windowpane / plaid pattern is differentiated enough to count as branching out)?

you can go with a lighter shade of blue like this one Joe made for me in LP cashmere. it is a very different blue from a blazer.

Seersucker suit is tempting too. If I see something I like from Joe and the price is right (there's something that just feels wrong about spending too much money on an MTM seersucker suit), I may well pull the trigger.

here are some of his seersuckers

 

[Thanks SF (a new me)]

@ archibaldleach, thanks for the thread. I am planning of having 1 or 2 SC from Joe as I am meeting him this weekend...
@Gus (PSG), that's a great LP pattern/colorway. I may even use the Tan Herringbone you have as an inspiration. What do you think of MT's SC construction wise? I am extremely happy with my shirts from Joe...
Thanks...

 

[archibaldleach]

PSG, thanks very much for the pictures. The visual makes it a lot easier to conceptualize things (and that light blue windowpane fabric is lovely).

Unbel, I could see another tweed being useful if I find the right one and fall in love with it (I also see myself leaning possibly getting a fourth odd jacket; ah the downside of good suggestions from SF) I'd describe my trouser situation as so-so. I could probably use a few more pairs of fall / winter / spring trousers (spring might as well be winter in Chicago) and have a decent amount of summery trousers already. I've found that I fit decently (say an 8 out of 10) into a few affordable OTR trouser brands where I can pick up trousers in the under $100 range without too much effort. There's definitely a bit of an improvement with a trouser from Joe, but for the time being I'm spending my money on odd jackets where I find it harder to get good fits with the details I want OTR. Once I'm in good shape with odd jackets, I'll probably start looking into getting some more trousers done but I'm still working on getting pieces where MTM details move the needle a bit further in terms of improving my look.

 

[unbelragazzo]

If you want something for winter weather but not as rough as tweed, check out the Harrison's moonbeam book

 

[unbelragazzo]

Personally I've found getting a really great trouser fit quite difficult. Might just be my physique though.

 

[Gus]



What do you think of MT's SC construction wise? I am extremely happy with my shirts from Joe...
Thanks...

Joe is completing my first jacket. I tried it on last weekend and he is making some minor adjustments. Joe is quite open to the clients input and took measurements from my bespoke NSM blazer. He typically has a bit more soft padding in the shoulder than a Neapolitain shoulder but less than a classic structured British shoulder. I asked him to remove padding for an even less structured look. I should have it in a few weeks.

btw, Joe just added some cool, new Thomas Mason shirt fabrics.

 

[Thanks SF (a new me)]



Joe is completing my first jacket. I tried it on last weekend and he is making some minor adjustments. Joe is quite open to the clients input and took measurements from my bespoke NSM blazer. He typically has a bit more soft padding in the shoulder than a Neapolitain shoulder but less than a classic structured British shoulder. I asked him to remove padding for an even less structured look. I should have it in a few weeks. btw, Joe just added some cool, new Thomas Mason shirt fabrics.

Thanks PSG. I will be checking the new TM fabrics this weekend and looking forward of pics with the finished jacket.

 

[archibaldleach]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I ended up going with the following two jackets for fall / winter:

Porter and Harding 16 ounce houndstooth tweed.

Holland and Sherry 11.5 ounce green corduroy (love this fabric; many thanks for steering me away from getting another brown jacket).

I picked up an 8-9 ounce wool / cashmere Loro Piana fabric in a light blue check pattern (unfortunately no picture but will take one when the jacket arrives) for summer wear. Ended up skipping the light brown / tan linen for the time being. I'll probably end up buying a seersucker suit from Joe next February. He had some lovely seersuckers but I just couldn't justify dropping the cash for them when I have other holes in my wardrobe.

 

[comrade]

Barleycorn tweed. Doesn't get enough attention on Style Forum:

http://www.google.com/search?q=barl...yMYvnigKll4HoBQ&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1607&bih=823