The World's best dress shirts-GQ article

[WSW]

I like short-sleeved shirts for summer wear, but I wouldn't have chosen that color to have them made in. I agree that that particular example makes you look like you work at a bowling alley; it's not very flattering.

The shirt above is nice though.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by kitonbrioni

A short-shirt sleeve bespoke shirt must be a rare sighting.
I've never gotten one. I have thought about it several times but still never gotten one. I am sure there is an interesting story behind the owner's reason for getting this type of shirt. I would have a hard time wearing this but there is a market for it.

I dont see too many short sleeved shirts there. One guy does get children's bed sheets made up as fun versions of bowling shirts with characters like the smurfs etc... but this is unusual to me because it has a long straight collar which suggests a necktie. Sometimes the customer orders something unfortunate but it is almost always a give and take with the maker. The cuffs on the sleeves is another interesting touch.

 

[zjpj83]

With shorts and boat shoes, to a picnic - why not wear a short sleeve bespoke shirt? With a tie, for business, no way, no how. But casually - why not?

 

[A Y]

K's mentioned in the past that he's made his own custom Scoutmaster uniform until they made him stop. I forget why.

--Andre

 

[Soph]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

With shorts and boat shoes, to a picnic - why not wear a short sleeve bespoke shirt? With a tie, for business, no way, no how. But casually - why not?

I agree. It's all in how it's designed and worn. You can look stylish or like a big Nerd depending. I think it helps if you are in decent shape and take care of yourself somewhat also. If not, it may not be the best of looks for you.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

With shorts and boat shoes, to a picnic - why not wear a short sleeve bespoke shirt? With a tie, for business, no way, no how. But casually - why not?

Or to the marina. That i think was a French blue pique cotton. The collar is a little dowdy and syas "business" which is why some may see it as odd. I wouldve had a more spread collar and maybe less stiff interlining.


Additionally, the placket along with the collar is a bit overpowering. Maybe if one or the other were different but at least you can see that they can make a shirt sleeved custom shirt. It hadnt occured to me that they even made one until I stumbled onto someone getting a beach shirt made out of yellow pillowcase material with bright red chili peppers printed on it!

 

[Cantabrigian]

I don't think I mind any of the styling (with the possible exception of the collar) as much as I mind the dark color.

In white linen it would be decent. I a darkish blue poplin, it says "tuna, down."

 

[passingtime]

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

I don't think I mind any of the styling (with the possible exception of the collar) as much as I mind the dark color.

In white linen it would be decent. I a darkish blue poplin, it says "tuna, down."

As a matter of curiosity I rebalanced the image to see what the shirt really looked like. The old image was over-heavy on blue.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Definitely better but I'd still prefer it with some linen, a fly front and either a longer/more spread collar or a convertible collar.

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Andre Yew

AK's mentioned in the past that he's made his own custom Scoutmaster uniform until they made him stop. I forget why.

--Andre

When he touched me, it felt funny.

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by GQgeek

Out of curiosity, how much is charvet bespoke?
Starts around 350 EUR if I am not mistaken. Lanvin starts around 550 EUR.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Étienne

Starts around 350 EUR if I am not mistaken. Lanvin starts around 550 EUR.

With a weak dollar, that's close to Kabbaz. Let's have a 15 page flame war about whether Lanvin prices are justified!

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by Manton

With a weak dollar, that's close to Kabbaz. Let's have a 15 page flame war about whether Lanvin prices are justified!
Isn't Kabbaz closer to USD 1000 these days? Not that close.

Anyway, I don't see how Lanvin's prices can be construed as justified. I am positively amazed that their bespoke operation survives at that much more than Charvet charges.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Étienne

Starts around 350 EUR if I am not mistaken. Lanvin starts around 550 EUR.

Apart from the handsewn buttonholes at Lanvin, I don't think the Lanvin bespoke is that much better than Charvet. In choice of trimmings (i.e. buttons, etc.) and of cloth, Charvet is much, much better, and its salespeople (leaving aside the shirtmakers themselves) are much more knowledgeable, based on my limited experience with Lanvin and my greater experience with Charvet. Still, both are quite definitely excellent and dedicated to obtaining the best fit possible as well as whatever the customer wishes.

With respect to RTW, Lanvin -- like Hermes -- mainly offers fashion-forward stuff which AFAIK doesn't reflect the quality of their bespoke. Charvet's RTW is some of the best machine-made shirts on the market.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Étienne

Anyway, I don't see how Lanvin's prices can be construed as justified. I am positively amazed that their bespoke operation survives at that much more than Charvet charges.

Ahem.

Lanvin's bespoke operation is almost certainly a loss leader operated partly for prestige reasons. Certainly I've never seen any other clients on their bespoke floor, which includes Gelot the hatmaker as well as their phenomenally expensive tailors; in fact, I've never seen any Gelot staff -- just bored tailors hanging out. A friend suggested that Lanvin also has or had some foreign clients who are able regularly to place very large orders -- storybook nabobs who reputedly wear shirts once, that sort of thing. (Similarly, I am certain that Hilditch & Key Paris' bespoke operations -- which are separate from those of its UK parent -- are completely dependent on their hundreds of orders annually from Mr. Lagerfeld.) At the same time, my friend suggests that the owners of Lanvin aren't particularly interested in supporting the bespoke operations, so things may sort of be drifting.