The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Belligero]

Roger Smith on the subject:

"I’m not a great fan of overcomplicated watches because the more you complicate them the less reliable they become."

I suspect that expensive repairs on high-end watches are a bit under-reported due to owners not wanting to kill their resale prospects. For example, a friend of mine recently bought a watch that the previous owner had paid 45000 NOK (about 6000 USD) to repair a few months earlier, and that was for a simple time and date movement from a "Holy Trinity" manufacturer.

 

[mimo]

As a cautionary tale, that's pretty terrifying for someone thinking they got a great deal on, say, a used Calatrava. I guess even with a simple movement and out of warranty, independents don't have original parts floating about for just anyone to use. Back to the maker or nothing?

 

[shinobi13]

Speaking of German watches, does anyone have any experience (good or bad) with Sinn? I've been researching the 104 st sa and am intrigued.

I own the 756 and it's solid!

 

[BostonHedonist]

When it comes to pre-owned, it certainly pays to have the buyer either a) furnish a receipt for a manufacturer overhaul from within the last year or so OR b) Only pay fair market value less the cost of a manufacturer overhaul.

Of course, all that gets dicey when you're looking at something rare or vintage.

I wish German car service were like it is with Rolex or Omega. Send it in, pay $600-$700 and it comes back brand new.

 

[gopherblue]



Just as an exercise, can anyone name a $4,000+ modern watch that is known for remarkable unreliability?

A broken Rolex.

 

[gopherblue]

But seriously, folks...I woke up this morning and bought something I think know Dino is going to like.

@Dino944 : perhaps I'm on your "ignore" list?

 

[New Shoes1]

Quote:
Thanks for the insight. I'm leaning towards the bracelet because I think/suspect it dresses it up enough to work with business casual, but also love the pictures of it on a strap like yours.

 

[yongsoo]

Just as an exercise, can anyone name a $4,000+ modern watch that is known for remarkable unreliability?

Do any Invicta have a MSRP up around there?

 

[Drez]

Thanks for the insight. I'm leaning towards the bracelet because I think/suspect it dresses it up enough to work with business casual, but also love the pictures of it on a strap like yours.

I would usually argue leather is even more formal on a watch than bracelet, which is counter intuitive to many people. Tool watches, such as your Sinn there, are a bit of an exception, esp with the contrast stitches and thicker bands.

Sinn makes wonderful bracelets though. The deployants on the U series rubbers particularly are hands down best in class and at even rival industry leaders like Omega and Breitling.

 

[kimmo]

I've seen discussion on AP 15400 being picky on service intervals (lubrication issue), but nothing widespread.

Accidentally ordered a blue Milgauss, btw. Went to see if my AD had any steel AP's (15450 is a tad small, 39 mm Royal Oak would be an optimum for me, that's confirmed) and while chatting asked about Milgauss delivery times. As I've griped before, AD can't confirm I will get one, but on the other hand says he'll happily take one on his display, so I'm not required to buy it anyway. Thought I'd lose nothing on this so reserved one. Delivery sometime August.

 

[Keith T]

Koppage seems to be on a slight increase lately.

Bring 'em on!

 

[suaviter]

I am waayyyyyy behind on this thread as I've been super busy.



QUICK PSA ---

make sure your watches are appraised and your insurance is all kosher gents -- took an alarming call from a housemate last week as our place had been broken into.

They got my Pam and Speedy -- luckily I somehow had my two Rolexes with me (and they left my vintage Omega 3 hander).


Just getting started with the insurance process so let's all keep our fingers crossed.


Much love to all the TWAT fam!

 

[Dino944]

Just as an exercise, can anyone name a $4,000+ modern watch that is known for remarkable unreliability?

Years ago a friend of mine wanted to buy a nice watch, but thought Rolex, Omegas, IWC were too common and boring. So my friend bought a U.N. That watch went back and forth to the service center 3 or 4 times for several weeks at a time, within the first 2 years of ownership. It wouldn't wind and retain power, it wouldn't keep good time, not sure what else...but eventually my friend said, "I suppose there is a reason one sees so many people wearing Rolex, Omegas, Breitlings etc, and one rarely sees Nardins."

More recent Nardins might be better, but that was enough to prevent me from being interested in their offerings.

Omega did have some teething problems with their relatively current Seamasters when they came in the mid 1990s. Same friend had problems with 3 different Seamasters, the dealer eventually let him swap it toward a Speedy Pro (which was trouble free).

Another brand that had issues was Anonimo. Same friend, because he likes obscure brands had problems with this watch. He eventually sold it to someone through Craigslist. I'm reasonably friendly with the dealer he bought the watch from and the dealer said he dropped the line, because there were far too many warranty issues and it made it tough for him to recommend the brand to his clients.

Roger Smith on the subject:

"I’m not a great fan of overcomplicated watches because the more you complicate them the less reliable they become."

I suspect that expensive repairs on high-end watches are a bit under-reported due to owners not wanting to kill their resale prospects. For example, a friend of mine recently bought a watch that the previous owner had paid 45000 NOK (about 6000 USD) to repair a few months earlier, and that was for a simple time and date movement from a "Holy Trinity" manufacturer.

You can definitely run into problems with very complicated pieces. Beyond cost, you are also limited as to who is qualified to do the repairs.

I will say a repair bill of $6,000 USD, is way out of the norm for a time only/date watch even from the "Holy Trinity." To me that is something that might suggest the watch was damaged. I have heard of a repair bill something in that vicinity which involved an AP Offshore Chronograph that was damaged by the owner. The owner wore it to a beach, but did not want to get sea water/sand etc to get on it (No idea why he wore it to the beach if that was a concern). So he sort hid it in his other stuff with his towel. Apparently, he forgot about his Offshore packed his stuff up and as he got to the parking lot and shook out his towel to get rid of sand...launching his watch upward and it eventually landed on concrete, damaging the bezel, the crystal, a pusher and movement. I guess that was a bit more shock than it could handle.

As a cautionary tale, that's pretty terrifying for someone thinking they got a great deal on, say, a used Calatrava. I guess even with a simple movement and out of warranty, independents don't have original parts floating about for just anyone to use. Back to the maker or nothing?

A basic service on PP, AP and VC (time only piece) is more than say for a time only piece by Rolex, Omega, Breitling etc. However, a service costing well over $1,500 would suggest to me that the watch may have been damaged at some point. (We don't always know how well a watch was treated unless we have an invoice showing it was recently serviced by a service center) However, yes with PP, AP, VC, Lange etc, an independent isn't going to be able to source parts, so you will need to go back to the maker if the watch were to need more than a service involving cleaning/lubricating the movement. However, I wouldn't be willing to trust a high end watch going to most local independents. I have heard that there is a very respected independent in the southern part of the US, known for working on vintage Rolex and Pateks and rumor has it he charges at least $2,500 to work on a watch. I've never used him, but in vintage circles he has an excellent reputation.

 

[Dino944]

I've seen discussion on AP 15400 being picky on service intervals (lubrication issue), but nothing widespread.

Accidentally ordered a blue Milgauss, btw. Went to see if my AD had any steel AP's (15450 is a tad small, 39 mm Royal Oak would be an optimum for me, that's confirmed) and while chatting asked about Milgauss delivery times. As I've griped before, AD can't confirm I will get one, but on the other hand says he'll happily take one on his display, so I'm not required to buy it anyway. Thought I'd lose nothing on this so reserved one. Delivery sometime August.

Interesting, as the movement in the 15400 is the same 3120 used in the prior model 15300 (which was in production for many year) and I don't think I've heard anything about it in that model.

Wishing you luck with whatever you purchase.

QUICK PSA ---

make sure your watches are appraised and your insurance is all kosher gents -- took an alarming call from a housemate last week as our place had been broken into.

They got my Pam and Speedy -- luckily I somehow had my two Rolexes with me (and they left my vintage Omega 3 hander).

Just getting started with the insurance process so let's all keep our fingers crossed.

Much love to all the TWAT fam!

Sorry to hear about that! Wishing you lots of luck with your insurance claim, but thank goodness you had insurance. I believe one of our old regulars here lost some PAMs and Rolex watches during a break in, and his insurance didn't cover everything. Definitely sound advice to make sure you have current appraisals for all watch purchases and that watches are properly insured in case of theft or fire. Again wishing you luck with replacing the stolen pieces.

 

[Keith T]

Oh man, that sucks, suav .... good luck with that whole process.

Keep us posted.