The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[cyc wid it]

I'm not looking, just was curious. I do have long term interest in another VC though. If considering a sports watch, I'd prefer an RO or Nautilus over any of the VC offerings I've seen.

 

[Galix]



Blue dialed Inge, anyone?

As new offerings from IWC goes, this one looks pretty good. And at a manageable 40mm too. I don't care for the case back, but at least it's solid.

I just bought 3 watches in the last few months... If only I had known this beauty was coming...

 

[Dino944]

I'm not looking, just was curious. I do have long term interest in another VC though. If considering a sports watch, I'd prefer an RO or Nautilus over any of the VC offerings I've seen.

+1

I'm a big fan of VC dress watches, I have 2 in my humble collection. I think they do a really nice job of making interesting dress watches that are often whimsical or have features that keep them looking fresh and very wearable for younger professionals. There are lots of great dress watches out there, but when I was in my early 30s some brands' offerings just looked too old and stodgy for me. However, with the exception of the 222, I've just never loved their sports watches. I greatly prefer the RO and Nautilus to the current Overseas.

 

[Ianiceman]

Can someone please do a quick summary as to what's the deal with Tag watches?

I realise two things - they aren't Patek Phillipe, they aren't even Rolex, and if a punter is happy with watch and price then that can't be argued with. I thought they we're a reputable brand at the lower end of the 'name brand' continuum, but I've come to learn that Tags seem to incur more wrath than all but the worst knock off fake brands. I saw a few nice models in a Tag shop in the mall recently, and when I mentioned this to a SA in the local specialty store he got all snooty and said they 'aren't even watches' - not sure what he meant by that, but it's somewhat typical of the snootiness I've observed. Is there any substance as to why Tag seems to have become the whipping boy of watch brands, or is it just internet bullies piling on?

 

[dopey]

I am wearing a TAG that was given to me about 27 years ago. It has been through quite a bit and, I am pretty sure that by now, the only thing really original to it is the case and bracelet. I have nothing bad to say about it and plenty good.
Not my pic, but it is this model:

 

[BostonHedonist]

I just can't stand when SA's get all snooty about luxury goods and brands. Puts a rotten taste in my mouth. I mean a raised eyebrow and clever double entendre is one thing. "Not even watches?" Come on now. What he really means is "not going to line my pockets." The TH Carrera actually does have some respectable provenance.

I don't quite know why the brand has become, as you say, the "whipping boy" other than that not much of what they produce tends to strike most serious watch lovers as particularly unique or special.

The brand did produce some supremely hideous examples in the 90s. But there are some decent enough - if a bit derivative - examples nowadays.

It may be that to someone who hasn't put in the hours of obsession and trained himself in the frivolous nuances of horology, a Tag looks like a decent enough watch at a bargain of a price compared to the competition (and he wouldn't be wrong), while to a seasoned watch aficionado, the Tag tends to look more like a beginner's mistake that says little about the owner save that they wanted a nice watch but don't know much about watches.

Some people don't but them just because so many people get snobby when you bring up Tag. But if you like it, go for it!

I wish I could be happy with a Tag. Sadly, I can't. Maybe I'll pick up a vintage Carrera one day if I let my collection swell. But on the 3+1 plan, there's just no room for one. To many others so much higher on the list.

 

[Thin White Duke]

When I completed my masters degree in 1991 I rewarded myself with the exact same watch that Dopey pictured. It cost $450 and although I've since moved on to a couple of Rolexes (thanks Stitchy!!) and it doesn't see much light, its still chugging away in the cupboard. I've got used to the size and weight of a submariner but still like the way that Tag looks.

I'm a strictly amateur watch geek but would hazard a guess that Tags are sometimes unpopular because they seemed to fully embrace the quartz movements and more recent efforts to use automatic movements (in house or imported??) haven't impressed the aficionados. Also as stated, a lot of their designs look like they have been 'heavily influenced' by big name brands. If Tags had a reputation for always having in-house auto movements since the fifties, and cost from $5k up, I think their image wouldn't be so tarnished. Still, I like 'em!

 

[geoloop]

To my understanding TH is overpriced for what they provide, you can get better quality pieces within the price range like Oris, just not much known as Tag, but if you buying a watch for the name...

 

[no frills]

I am a watch enthusiast and in those type of watches what I appreciate has more to do with either the movement or the history of the watch. I like small watches in general, but 30 mm is way too small for me to wear. So this would be a watch I'd have in my collection just to see and not to wear.

Good point. I'm a wearer though; I have yet to come across a watch that I desired so much that I would be happy just keeping it in my collection without wearing it.

Sorry, I haven't looked into that, just got it in my IWC newsletter today.

IWC's page for it is here, though I don't think they list the price.

If it's going to be priced like the other 3239 variants then it's at USD6,400 MSRP.

Me too, though my biggest issue was with how thick it is? Comparing to a no date Sub its a nice deal if you like it, but I'm not sure why that watch has to be 15mm thick. Seems to wear lot bigger than the 114060, just didn't seem as elegant as it could have been (yes its weird to think of a dive watch as elegant...).

The 114060 is 12.5mm and the new SD4000 is 15mm. Same case size but boy does the new SD4000 pack more weight (and by extension, perceived wrist presence). For perspective, the DSSD is similarly "only" 2.5mm thicker than the SD4000 at 17.5mm - but it proves too monstrous for many people combined with its 44mm case size and Upton-ish proportions.

At 30mm, I think it is too small to ever look quite right on a man. If you were wearing it, I would think you borrowed it from one of your daughters.

I read about them years ago, but to be honest they were never my taste. I could appreciate that they were one of the first serial produced lines of waterproof (now they say water resistant) watches, and they used details we now take for granted such as screwed down crowns and case backs that also screwed in to the case. Some have cool dials like the so called "California dials," others had notched bezels that look like they might have been the inspiration for the bezels on watches like the original TOG/Thunderbird or some engine turned bezels on early Oyster Dates, and some have lug hoods...that maybe became the inspiration for the lug pieces on Daytonas that come on straps. For me seeing this lineage is cool, but not enough to inspire a purchase.

However, if it puts a smile on your friend's face, that is all that matters. Cheers!

He pulled the trigger and seems to be happy with it! He was looking for a Sub originally, though, so I want to see if he will eventually come around to buying a Sub - and if he will resell the bubble back at a loss, as a result of this "interim purchase."

Today (and for most of the coming week) - shout out to @TheWraith :

 

[TheWraith]

^ That's the beauty of beauties in my book, Frilly. LOVE IT!

 

[ctp120]

I own three TAG watches. The first was a Kirium chronograph, a gift as a teenager. The second was a Monza, a Christmas gift during college. The third, a gift from my wife, was a Formula 1. I never really liked or disliked the brand particularly, but they've all held up very well. I still wear the Monza occasionally (mostly because of it's black croc strap and cushion case shape), the other two much less, but I don't really get the anti-TAG snobbery.

That said, my Parmigiani Kalpa Grande and SubC date currently see the lion's share of wrist time. I'd like to think that has more to do with their novelty and merits, not that I'm turning my nose up at the TAGs.

 

[Dino944]

Can someone please do a quick summary as to what's the deal with Tag watches?

I realise two things - they aren't Patek Phillipe, they aren't even Rolex, and if a punter is happy with watch and price then that can't be argued with. I thought they we're a reputable brand at the lower end of the 'name brand' continuum, but I've come to learn that Tags seem to incur more wrath than all but the worst knock off fake brands. I saw a few nice models in a Tag shop in the mall recently, and when I mentioned this to a SA in the local specialty store he got all snooty and said they 'aren't even watches' - not sure what he meant by that, but it's somewhat typical of the snootiness I've observed. Is there any substance as to why Tag seems to have become the whipping boy of watch brands, or is it just internet bullies piling on?

Interesting that these days you find TAG to be a whipping boy of watch brands. Their vintage watches say pre-TAG take over...so I'll go a few years earlier and say pre-1980 had some real street cred in the watch world. Quality pieces, attractive designs, at reasonable prices. Then they hit a slump in the 1980s into the 1990s with relatively inexpensive watches, many quartz, many very ordinary quality, and some rather garish designs with cheesy gold plating. I think that period was their worst period and some pieces were basically a waste of money. However, in recent years with their retro inspired pieces, they have elevated themselves to building good watches again. No, they aren't Patek or Rolex, but they aren't priced like them either. I can't say I love any of the current pieces enough to purchase one, to be honest if I wanted something like one of their retro pieces...I'd probably seek out the best vintage Heuer (Pre-Tag takeover) that I could find.

As for snooty SA's I find them a bit amusing ( since they rarely realize they are joke). Most times the snooty attitude is a poor attempt at them trying to assert some level of control when it comes to a purchase (be it to influence a buyer into a higher end purchase or more often to dissuade a person from purchasing a brand they don't carry). Some consumers, particularly those that don't do their research on a product can be easily swayed by an SA's attitude or comments. I grew up with rather opinionated parents and I work in an industry where strong opinions that you can defend matter, so snooty SA comments don't bother me. I recall years ago, walking into an upscale shop, where my dad had previously purchased a Royal Oak. They carried Patek, AP, VC, IWC, JLC, and Cartier (they had carried Rolex many years earlier but lost the contract to carry it). My dad and I were walking around, at the time my dad was wearing an all gold Submariner and I was wearing a Rolex Daytona. Some women entered the shop, and asked, "Do you carry Rolex watches?" A young SA replied, "No, we only carry GOOD watches here!" At which point an older SA (who knew my dad and noticed the watches we were wearing) said to the younger SA, "You really should be more careful about making those types of comments'" with a slight nod to us. That wasn't the first or last time I heard an SA bash a brand that they didn't carry. Not to mention, all the SA did was essentially throw those women out, and he could have lost a sale with us had we been offended (we were just looking not buying and he wasn't our SA). Had the young SA been smart maybe he would have said, "I'm sorry but we do not carry Rolex,but we have some beautiful watches from Patek and Cartier that I think you ladies might really like. Why don't you come in and see for yourself."

If you like a TAG and it makes you smile, then buy it. Who cares what snooty SA's say. They need your purchase, you don't need to buy a watch from them, in most cases you can source a watch from some other place. Good luck with your shopping.

 

[TheWraith]

Speaking of Tag's...we all know the Rolex GMT BLNR is the Batman watch, perhaps this Tag could be the Wraith watch?

:tounge:

 

[BostonHedonist]

So then I stumbled across the next evolution of the Constellation



and deep inside, the seed of desire sprouted.



However, doesn't Rolex typically have the best claim to the Fluted Throne?

 

[dsn112]

That globemaster is beautiful in person. Omega boutique had one on a special display last time I was there.