The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Wes Bourne]

^ And readily available for about $50.

http://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNK807-...=UTF8&qid=1418776746&sr=1-24&keywords=5+watch
http://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNK809-...=UTF8&qid=1418776746&sr=1-26&keywords=5+watch
http://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNK805-...=UTF8&qid=1418776746&sr=1-27&keywords=5+watch
http://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNK803-...=UTF8&qid=1418776746&sr=1-21&keywords=5+watch

 

[in stitches]

Im somewhere between RFX and Belli on this, leaning more towards RFX.

I think that IWC movement is boring as heck, and they could have easily spruced it up a little, and from a marketing/advertising standpoint, they know people are gonna see that and its gonna be all over the web, so it was kind of a dumb move I think.

But if Im buying a closed back watch Id probably be more frustrated having a gorgeous movement that Ill never see than having a movement that is perhaps less interesting than Id like that I will never see.

In any case, if I loved the look of the watch, and if I felt the rather boring movement was of very high quality, an unseen boring movement decoration would probably not deter me.

I think a little more than is needed is being made of this.

 

[ctp120]



No clearly they are not.  Looks like its not just an IWC thing, Cartier thing or VC thing...unfortunately it seems like its becoming a Richemont thing...]

Add Parmigiani to the list of offenders. This is what my Kalpa Grande looks like (stock photo; mine is stainless):

On the triple date window, although I don't care for them, I do see their once an hour potential purpose. If the minute hand is covering the date, and you happen to need the date at that moment, it's not exactly a fun experience waiting for the minute hand to move out of view. Assuming you like a date window on a watch to be able to get the date at a glance, the triple date window is a solution to the problem of the minute hand blocking the view.

I think there's something to this reasoning, but I also get why some are annoyed by it.

 

[aleksandr]

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and suggestions.

Aleksandr, awesome news. Is there a price point/range you need to be in?

Not entirely sure what is going on in her head, though I would guess a good guide would be 8K thereabouts out the door (after haggling), possibly a maximum of 10K? I know my original 3 choices are safely below that number.

aleksandr would you consider the JLC Master Ultra Thin? They have a new 38.5mm model which I really like:

A bit dressier than the Master Control, but a really beautiful watch. I really like their Ultra Thin case; proportions and shape are elegant and fit nicely to the wrist. I'm looking forward to trying this one on in the metal; I've tried on a number of watches in this series, including the 40mm predecessor and the Ultra Thin Moon, and am a big fan. I think the balance and proportions on the new 38.5mm are better than on the 40mm Grande MUT which preceded it. The sun ray finished dial really is quite lively and changeable in daylight, catching different colours and hues.

@aleksandr lucky you! The MUT Moon would be the TWAT favourite, I like the smaller MUT small seconds more than the Grand 40mm version, and there's a version of Delands' Port Royal with no date that I think is really smart. Just a left-field suggestion: have you looked at RGM?

Have not handled the MUT in the flesh - how much thinner is the MUT compared to the regular Master? I am somewhat wary of going into Altiplano territory, prefer something with slightly more body. Never heard of RGM, is that some esoteric TWAT acronym I should know about?

Those sound like some great options. Two others to consider, if Cartier is of interest to you are the relatively new Rotonde retrograde second time zone day night indicator. The steel model on the right is around $9,650 USD. It uses an in house movement. I wish the date didn't cut out the 12 hour marker but I do like the case on these a lot. There is also a date power reserve model that is around $8,300. Whatever your wife chooses for you, I'm sure you will enjoy and more importantly you have a great wife!

Those dials are a little bit busy for my taste - can't quite put a finger on it but I think I would prefer something cleaner.

I've been lurking around here for some time and I thought I'd chime in on this questions since I encountered something similar a couple of months ago. My fiancée wanted to give me an engagement present in the form of a watch. Since she doesn't know much about watches she asked my input and I set up a long/short list and then visited some ADs with her to try on the watches and see them in the metal. My requirements were a classic 3-hander with a silver/white dial on a strap. My initial list included the JLC Master Control, JLC Master Ultra Thin, a few Omega's from the Deville line, an IWC Portofino the Zenith Captain central second. After trying these on, the final short list was between the JLC Master Control and the Zenith, but with the smoked dial. The AD only had the smoked dial in stock to try on and I just really liked it. It has a nice sunburst effect to it and adds something extra to the watch IMO. Eventually, my fiancée chose the Zenith and I couldn't be happier. It's easy to dress up, but also to wear casually. It has almost become my only watch for the moment. Here's a picture: I hope it helps in your decision making process. Your're very lucky with a wife like you have!

Ohh the Zenith is very nice! Thanks for the suggestion. The dial is very interesting.

 

[MSchott]

This is fascinating to me as I am admittedly very naïve and green re: watches. Could someone please show me a pic of the movement of an "exceptional" five figure watch? I would like to see the difference and if anyone could briefly explain the nuances (or point me to link or other source material).

I don't want to derail the thread.

Many thanks!

Here's what's really important in a tool watch like the pictured IWC CF3. This is an in house integrated chronograph movement with column wheel and I believe a vertical clutch or other means to make for smooth switching of the chrono seconds hand on start up. It's a very high end movement and even has a long power reserve. In this particular watch it is surrounded by an anti-magnetic cage. This is a tool watch and no one will see the movement. I'd like to see better decoration and there are versions that are quite beautiful. Lets not forget the highly efficient Pellaton winding system.

Full disclosure: I moderate the IWC Forum on Timezone.com.

 

[rnguy001]

Agreed. Seems to happen a lot when IWC gets brought up

Im somewhere between RFX and Belli on this, leaning more towards RFX.

I think that IWC movement is boring as heck, and they could have easily spruced it up a little, and from a marketing/advertising standpoint, they know people are gonna see that and its gonna be all over the web, so it was kind of a dumb move I think.

But if Im buying a closed back watch Id probably be more frustrated having a gorgeous movement that Ill never see than having a movement that is perhaps less interesting than Id like that I will never see.

In any case, if I loved the look of the watch, and if I felt the rather boring movement was of very high quality, an unseen boring movement decoration would probably not deter me.

I think a little more than is needed is being made of this.

 

[in stitches]

I dont like the extra wide date window, I think its not aesthetically pleasing. Ymmv.

 

[ncc1701d]

Yowsa. 45mm case. Must be meant to be worn outside of a space suit. Good thing I'm not an astronaut.

Or maybe its to bring out the Flavor Flav in astronauts and they will be wearing it on a chain around the neck of their space suits

Guess I'll have to see it in the flesh regarding the size. But it looks nice to me

 

[Hayward]

I've thought about the X-33, always liked the idea of it, but I've yet to see in the wild pics of one...

 

[academe]



Agreed. Seems to happen a lot when IWC gets brought up

Seconded; I appreciate the passionate debate, but hope the main actors can dial it backdown a bit. Would be nice to keep TWAT a bit less combative that some of the other threads at SF...

 

[academe]



I've thought about the X-33, always liked the idea of it, but I've yet to see in the wild pics of one...

Triple post?!

 

[Tried and True]



I've thought about the X-33, always liked the idea of it, but I've yet to see in the wild pics of one...

I have the 1st generation X-33. Pretty cool little gadget with an alarm that could wake the dead. It has a different look than the 3rd generation and a touch smaller at 42. Here's a side by side.

 

[Belligero]



Seconded; I appreciate the passionate debate, but hope the main actors can dial it backdown a bit. Would be nice to keep TWAT a bit less combative that some of the other threads at SF...

Agreed, and thanks for the response.

Regrets if the previous discussion veered more toward combativity than good-natured banter. (I tend to write rather hastily on a touch screen, and that definitely doesn't help things.)

Watches are one of the few things that I care enough about to write about, and I'd like to avoid coming across as simply being negative for its own sake. I actually do like them and I get disappointed when I see companies taking their customers for granted. After re-reading Jack Forster's excellent 2013 article on watch journalism, it resonates — especially the bit about handbags being handled with a better critical sensibility than watches and the last line: "Selling Veblen goods to a progressively narrower and narrower slice of the affluent uninformed is not a particularly sustainable business model."

Design in general and watches in particular interest me, and I'd much sooner have discussion than diatribe on the subject. I particularly enjoy reading the considered opinions and reasoned critique that this thread often elicits. It's a goldmine of information and has a wealth of genuinely helpful and likeable regulars. Crucially for me, it's free of the sponsor-influenced moderation that plagues most watch-specific venues and stifles legitimate discussion. I'll endeavor to keep it fun, though.

TWAT is the most consistently engaging watch discussion that I've come across. It doesn't hurt that there are some absolutely kickass watches of all types here, either.

 

[RogerP]

I really don't buy the excuse that the pedestrian finish is justifiable because the movement is housed behind a solid case back. At this price point a decent level of finishing should be expected, as that is one of the factors which separate higher end watches from their lesser counterparts.

It's kind of like the difference between the solo golfer who calls a penalty on himself when his ball lands behind a tree and the guy who kicks it back into the fairway.

Not much turns on the difference in choice - no puppies are harmed either way - but it still says something when you choose to do the right thing even when there's nobody watching.

 

[rnguy001]

@Belligero- no need to apologize for writing what you believe. Clearly you've done the research and feel passionately about this and we've all learned a hell of a lot (about font?! - J/K) from your posts.

To be fair, you probably know more about IWC than most IWC fans - myself included. And you spread your love and disapproval around rather fairly I believe. You're not really an IWC-icst.. More like a Richemont-icst? Still, it's these discussions - polarizing as they are - that keep everyone engaged. Now where is that @mafoofan to tie this all up?

And to be honest, this round hasn't been nearly as 'contentious' as some of the many other spirited discussions on TWAT.