The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[IGotId]

Quote:
methinks that's my favorite of the two

 

[atia2]



It's no longer centered between the hour markers.

Once seen cannot be unseen.

 

[double00]

Looks like the dials are different sizes, and they opted to nest the date accordingly... i wouldnt mind it either way...

 

[DLJr]

Yep, that's what happened. I didn't notice at first, but once I did, it irked me.

 

[mimo]

How interesting. Making the lower subdial smaller and then centering the date between the asymmetric subdials rather than the hour markers. I'm not sure why they changed the size of the subdial, but it does somehow give a little retro flavour. I'm liking the blue one.

Regarding the "one watch" thing, I'm going back and forth on this. Since I got the Oyster, I'm wearing it probably 80% of the time at least, 100% when I travel. Two of my other watches that I used to wear a lot, basically never even get wound any more. Time to move them along if I can, maybe. The only time I reach for another watch is my Orange Monster for swimming/exercise (though I've worn the Oyster snorkeling too, I mean, it is waterproof...), or sometimes for the big pimpy Helson with short sleeves.

I don't think I just want one watch. More that I just really like one a lot! What I do know is that there is no point in buying a watch I like, that's affordable. This is a hard discipline. I think the lesson is wait, hold out, for something that you really, really love.

 

[Dino944]

It's no longer centered between the hour markers. So same general location, but no longer centered.

Thanks I hadn't noticed that on the new model. A bit odd...but as someone else suggested its definitely a function of the change in subdial size. I like the blue dial version, but I'm not sure if I could get used to the offset date now that you have pointed it out to me.

 

[in stitches]



Quote:
methinks that's my favorite of the two

Good thing to think.

 

[robw]



Speaking of ROs, they've actually found a way to make the date windows even more annoying on the new chronos.

Indeed, I never liked how when AP upsized the RO chrono a few years ago, it kept the old movement so that the date window seemed too small and moved closer to the center, leaving way too much space between the window and the outer ring with seconds.

Nothing wrong with making the case bigger IMO or the 1185 movement for that matter (I own the prior RO chrono and it is a pleasure to operate and runs great), but the execution just looked cheap and seemed kind of bush league for AP. This is even worse; something just out of place with these date windows. Is this a new movement or something else going on?

 

[mildundklar]

My two cents.

Rolex Submariner 114060
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 114200

34 mm works like a charm - 18 cm wrist.

 

[WSW]



Indeed, I never liked how when AP upsized the RO chrono a few years ago, it kept the old movement so that the date window seemed too small and moved closer to the center, leaving way too much space between the window and the outer ring with seconds.

Nothing wrong with making the case bigger IMO or the 1185 movement for that matter (I own the prior RO chrono and it is a pleasure to operate and runs great), but the execution just looked cheap and seemed kind of bush league for AP. This is even worse; something just out of place with these date windows. Is this a new movement or something else going on?

Still the same movement. I too never understood why they increased the RO chrono from 39 mm to 41 mm. Really threw off the proportions. AP already has the ROO line for those who want bigger watches. It doesn't make sense to mess with the classic lines as well.

 

[Dino944]

Still the same movement. I too never understood why they increased the RO chrono from 39 mm to 41 mm. Really threw off the proportions. AP already has the ROO line for those who want bigger watches. It doesn't make sense to mess with the classic lines as well.

The reason for the increase was purely many of their buyers wanted a larger watch, and their direct competition, the 2nd generation VC Overseas Chronograph was considerably larger. Therefore, if people were used to and wanted a larger watch, they either had to buy the VC or go with an Offshore (which isn't for everyone). While you mention AP already had the ROO line for those who wanted bigger watches, not everyone who wants a bigger watch wants or likes the Offshore chronographs. I love the RO, but the only models that truly interest me are the classic collection of RO...not the Offshore. I just find the Offshores, too bulky, and too far removed from the more restrained lines of the classic RO colllection. So although, I like and own a RO and Offshore was never a consideration, and likely never will be.

Personally, while I am generally not a fan of putting the same movement in larger cases, I felt that the RO chrono was a pretty good transition. I always felt at 39mm everything seemed a tad squished and busy for the dial. I also felt that the chronograph did a better job of up sizing in terms of proportions largely due to its dial having more space for the subdials and hour markers, than say the 15400 (which is a nice watch, but to me it just never seemed quite right when I looked at it on my wrist).

Overall, I don't dislike the revised chronograph, although the differing subdials and new date placement may be something that would take me a long time to get used to. It will be interesting to see what they do in the future if they eventually develop their own chronograph movement for the RO rather than continuing with the F.Piguet 1185 base. I'm surprised that they didn't already change movements as VC & Patek have their own chronograph movements and this is the 20th anniversary of the RO chronograph.

 

[WSW]

I am also surprised that AP has not introduced an in-house chrono movement to compete with VC and Patek. Maybe the existing 1185 and the modular chrono used on the ROOs are selling very well still? I asked at the AP boutique in NY a couple of years back and had been told that it was coming soon. Still waiting to see it.

 

[in stitches]

Being that I believe they own, or are at least the majority owner, of Renaud et Papi, I would think that if they really wanted to, they could pretty easily have their "own" chrono movement.

 

[Steel28]



The 15300 is my perfect one and only watch. I'm down to just a SubC LV and Explorer 1 39mm but would consider selling both for a 15300...if I could find a new one.

Keep the Hulk at least!

 

[mordecai]