The unofficial Drake's London Appreciation Thread

[Trevallon]

I have both. The Kaptain Sunshine is thicker and much more dense with its melton wool - the coat I grab when it gets truly cold or windy. It feels impervious to the elements, even though it's only partially and lightly lined, and has a great A-line silhouette as well - but also more structure and (soft) stiffness. The collar is excellent and stands perfectly. It's just a really beautiful coat that works with the rest of what I wear (DrakesDad adjacent Ivy) and feels great to wear. That said, I love the reverse box pleat on the Drake's coat from midback, and how it is cut and sewn instead of pressed (see Chrysalis and the Drake's bals of years ago).

There have been a few Drake's bals that are more dense - particularly the PoW from last year selling through this season. The green Donegal twill was created by the same weaver on the Isle of Bute who made the PoW, and in photos seems to drape with a sense of more heft to the fabric. I think the others (solids, herringbones, etc) lend themselves better to layered fits in winter as per lookbooks, and perhaps more temperate winter climates. It's been awhile since I read anything about stated fabric weight, but my Drake's bal is about on par with a Harris Tweed Chrysalis Kensington from a couple seasons back, absolutely more loosely woven than the 760g PWVC/PS herringbone, and the most dense and warm is the KS. I have...too many coats.

Great Info!

 

[ponderosa]

Man thank you so much for this detailed description. From what you said I think Kaptain Sunshine is exactly what I am looking for. But Drake's have a few pattern options that also speak to me. So I will probably have both in some time. Can you please comment how did you size on both or in comparison one to another?

Happy to help! I'm a pre-pandemic, pre-parenthood 38/48-39, and I sized my Drake's navy bal (in case there has been any variance, a couple seasons ago) at a 36 for perhaps a little cleaner drape. It fits like the Jason Jules pic here, with sleeves on the shorter side being the biggest thing I notice. Body still has nice volume and doesn't feel tight; probably works partly because it's so drapey and has the big rear pleat. Even sized down, that pleat still hangs closed unless I'm making a big movement. But I was just encouraging a guy in the last pages to stay with 38 even though he's usually a 36. I'd prob recommend sticking TTS.

The KS is a marked 38 - had a chance to snag one preowned and liked the classic navy. It fits bigger but not wildly so, still doesn't look out of place when I'm dressed a little sharper (tie etc) for work. Stiff fabric holds its shape which may be part of it. Elsewhere you'll see people talking about sizing up - I've never had the option but am very happy with a 38. It swallows a shirt-sweater-shetland-fleece on the coldest days and looks great with just a shirt on warmer ones. Patternwise, KS seems to do more limited runs but there are patterns that'll appear - a windowpane on No Man Walks Alone this year, and a fine and subdued houndstooth I saw on Namu Shop. I found a classic tan cotton twill Traveler in 40 that I'm waiting for, and expect it'll be oversized and cool.

I bought and love both. Can't really go wrong unless it's super cold and then I think the KS takes the cake. The most important element they share is the silhouette, which is such a nice shift from some other coats that end up feeling more tubelike. Compared to the 201X hyper-fitted era, it's cool to be able to wear so many different sizes and play with looks. I find myself actually looking at womenswear for these silhouettes, as things are borrowed back and forth through the years - we can learn a lot from them! Plus the 'easy' fit is so much more comfortable. Have fun!

 

[mossrockss]

I have both. The Kaptain Sunshine is thicker and much more dense with its melton wool - the coat I grab when it gets truly cold or windy. It feels impervious to the elements, even though it's only partially and lightly lined, and has a great A-line silhouette as well - but also more structure and (soft) stiffness. The collar is excellent and stands perfectly. It's just a really beautiful coat that works with the rest of what I wear (DrakesDad adjacent Ivy) and feels great to wear. That said, I love the reverse box pleat on the Drake's coat from midback, and how it is cut and sewn instead of pressed (see Chrysalis and the Drake's bals of years ago).

There have been a few Drake's bals that are more dense - particularly the PoW from last year selling through this season. The green Donegal twill was created by the same weaver on the Isle of Bute who made the PoW, and in photos seems to drape with a sense of more heft to the fabric. I think the others (solids, herringbones, etc) lend themselves better to layered fits in winter as per lookbooks, and perhaps more temperate winter climates. It's been awhile since I read anything about stated fabric weight, but my Drake's bal is about on par with a Harris Tweed Chrysalis Kensington from a couple seasons back, absolutely more loosely woven than the 760g PWVC/PS herringbone, and the most dense and warm is the KS. I have...too many coats.

I have the Eidos Chiaia coat which I have long felt is the ultimate coat, but have also always recommended the Drakes coat as having a similar design and vibe. The envelope pockets in particular are a feature I love (and have noticed many a maker adopting them, with even Todd Snyder adding it to his bal coat).
Since I have the Chiaia I’ve not been tempted… but you hit the nail on the head: that big reverse pleat on the Drakes bal is such a great detail.
So I now find myself considering a complementary color to my Eidos coat (which is gray herringbone, which I think is perfect).
Thanks for your thoughtful analysis.

 

[sussi]

Happy to help! I'm a pre-pandemic, pre-parenthood 38/48-39, and I sized my Drake's navy bal (in case there has been any variance, a couple seasons ago) at a 36 for perhaps a little cleaner drape. It fits like the Jason Jules pic here, with sleeves on the shorter side being the biggest thing I notice. Body still has nice volume and doesn't feel tight; probably works partly because it's so drapey and has the big rear pleat. Even sized down, that pleat still hangs closed unless I'm making a big movement. But I was just encouraging a guy in the last pages to stay with 38 even though he's usually a 36. I'd prob recommend sticking TTS.

The KS is a marked 38 - had a chance to snag one preowned and liked the classic navy. It fits bigger but not wildly so, still doesn't look out of place when I'm dressed a little sharper (tie etc) for work. Stiff fabric holds its shape which may be part of it. Elsewhere you'll see people talking about sizing up - I've never had the option but am very happy with a 38. It swallows a shirt-sweater-shetland-fleece on the coldest days and looks great with just a shirt on warmer ones. Patternwise, KS seems to do more limited runs but there are patterns that'll appear - a windowpane on No Man Walks Alone this year, and a fine and subdued houndstooth I saw on Namu Shop. I found a classic tan cotton twill Traveler in 40 that I'm waiting for, and expect it'll be oversized and cool.

I bought and love both. Can't really go wrong unless it's super cold and then I think the KS takes the cake. The most important element they share is the silhouette, which is such a nice shift from some other coats that end up feeling more tubelike. Compared to the 201X hyper-fitted era, it's cool to be able to wear so many different sizes and play with looks. I find myself actually looking at womenswear for these silhouettes, as things are borrowed back and forth through the years - we can learn a lot from them! Plus the 'easy' fit is so much more comfortable. Have fun!

Thank you so much! I think I got all the answers I wanted in your 2 answers. Now I just need to be patient to find a coat in a pattern I prefer. I am afraid it will take some time but I will try to stay patient. Traveller is unfortunately currently sold out at all EU retailers. I will keep you updated when hunting season ends. If anyone has any lead of any KS traveller in size 42 in EU please hmu. Otherwise I will probably get Drake's this winter and hopefully contrast color KS next winter.

 

[Wim]

Hi Folks, new season polo coat:

I like:
1. The colour
2. Fit across the body
3. Wearing it open
4. Ulster collar

I'm on the fence about:
1. Lack of a half belt
2. Fit on the shoulders
3. Material crumples easily (arms/bottom of jacket)
4. The price

Anyone own this one or the previous version and their experience of it?
For £1600, there's more negatives than I'd like, but I can't tell if I've just built up in my head how much I was going to like this coat and actually its a great purchase...

Hmm, you are right about the fit on the shoulders. Since it is really an overcoat, I'd have expected a bigger sleeve head and a wider sleeve. Are you wearing a jacket underneath the coat? If not, it definitely doesn't fit you the way it should. Not sure if sizing up would help either as that won't make a substantial difference for the sleeve width. As to the fabric, that might be just a matter of letting the wool relax or giving it a once over with a steam iron. Did you wear it straight out of the packaging for the picture?

 

[admp86]

Hmm, you are right about the fit on the shoulders. Since it is really an overcoat, I'd have expected a bigger sleeve head and a wider sleeve. Are you wearing a jacket underneath the coat? If not, it definitely doesn't fit you the way it should. Not sure if sizing up would help either as that won't make a substantial difference for the sleeve width. As to the fabric, that might be just a matter of letting the wool relax or giving it a once over with a steam iron. Did you wear it straight out of the packaging for the picture?

No jacket underneath, just a jumper, so the balance is definitely off on sleeve width.

The shoulders are also definitely not right and I'm broad in the shoulders.

However, most disappointing is the material; I hoped letting it hang & steaming would resolve, but alas, no.

As such, back it goes, I may look at The Anthology version instead...

Ending on a positive, this is the only item I've bought this season I've been disappointed in!

 

[Phillip Dean]

Fyi, some pretty great deals at Nordstrom right now, which has discounted Drake's items including the heavyweight suede bomber at 40% off.

https://www.nordstrom.com/s/a2-suede-bomber-jacket/7321668?origin=category-personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FBrands%2FDrake%27s&color=200

Took that discount as an excuse and scooped up a 40... I'm usually a 40/42. Counting on it being a little oversized—anyone have any excuse with the bomber? I've seen it in store and it looks stunning.

 

[nachobarro]

I think it's one of the best jacket that Drake's is offering right now. Too expensive for me right now even with the huge discount though. Please post pics when you get your hands on it

Fyi, some pretty great deals at Nordstrom right now, which has discounted Drake's items including the heavyweight suede bomber at 40% off.

https://www.nordstrom.com/s/a2-suede-bomber-jacket/7321668?origin=category-personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FBrands%2FDrake%27s&color=200

Took that discount as an excuse and scooped up a 40... I'm usually a 40/42. Counting on it being a little oversized—anyone have any excuse with the bomber? I've seen it in store and it looks stunning.

Btw, my order from Matches is stuck in customs (it seems, or that is what support has told me). First time ordering there... I'm a lucky man. I totally regret not getting the Ecru Alpaca Lambswool Ribbed Integral Collar Jumper on sale

 

[htinlinn]

Thanks! Snagged a linen shirt that I’ve been eying for a while. If only that green coverall jacket was included in the sale…

 

[ikoiko]

Thanks as well. Picked up a coral jumper, also found a wonderful red donegal knit cap for more than half off at Bloomingdale's, of all places...

 

[Mavidpark]

Something I've been thinking about a ton while perusing the Drakes site and saving my favorite fits and pieces on my instagram wishlist. Will I get much use out of some of these pieces? I live in Southern California and basically only having 3 seasons, alot of the fits and pieces from Drakes might not get much use outside of trips and odd rainy day. I currently own a mole skin chore that is by far my favorite jacket, but gets benched from the months of May-October.

The casentino fleece has been a grail item for a long time. I owned the ALD purple one for about a week when I realized that I was basically cooking inside it. This was last December by the way. Sold it. Now I am back looking at the boucle fleeces and scarves and wondering if I'll run into the same issues.

For all you folks in warm weather areas, how do you justify some of the Drakes pieces you own? Also what signature drakes items do you feel work year around?

 

[Ancestral Star]

Something I've been thinking about a ton while perusing the Drakes site and saving my favorite fits and pieces on my instagram wishlist. Will I get much use out of some of these pieces? I live in Southern California and basically only having 3 seasons, alot of the fits and pieces from Drakes might not get much use outside of trips and odd rainy day. I currently own a mole skin chore that is by far my favorite jacket, but gets benched from the months of May-October.

The casentino fleece has been a grail item for a long time. I owned the ALD purple one for about a week when I realized that I was basically cooking inside it. This was last December by the way. Sold it. Now I am back looking at the boucle fleeces and scarves and wondering if I'll run into the same issues.

For all you folks in warm weather areas, how do you justify some of the Drakes pieces you own? Also what signature drakes items do you feel work year around?

Signature items that work year round are things that Drake’s produces in its own factories and does best, in my opinion: ties and shirts, the Oxford shirts in particular.

 

[htinlinn]

Something I've been thinking about a ton while perusing the Drakes site and saving my favorite fits and pieces on my instagram wishlist. Will I get much use out of some of these pieces? I live in Southern California and basically only having 3 seasons, alot of the fits and pieces from Drakes might not get much use outside of trips and odd rainy day. I currently own a mole skin chore that is by far my favorite jacket, but gets benched from the months of May-October.

The casentino fleece has been a grail item for a long time. I owned the ALD purple one for about a week when I realized that I was basically cooking inside it. This was last December by the way. Sold it. Now I am back looking at the boucle fleeces and scarves and wondering if I'll run into the same issues.

For all you folks in warm weather areas, how do you justify some of the Drakes pieces you own? Also what signature drakes items do you feel work year around?

For outerwear, I think canvas chore jackets and cotton / linen games blazers will work year round in SoCal. I will second the above opinion regarding oxford shirts and work shirts. I really like the canvas five pocket trousers as well which I think will work year round.

 

[Trevallon]

I think it's one of the best jacket that Drake's is offering right now. Too expensive for me right now even with the huge discount though. Please post pics when you get your hands on it


Btw, my order from Matches is stuck in customs (it seems, or that is what support has told me). First time ordering there... I'm a lucky man. I totally regret not getting the Ecru Alpaca Lambswool Ribbed Integral Collar Jumper on sale

I ordered from the as well, first time. Same hazy explanation about customs issues outside their control and why the item has not moved since the 3rd of December... So, not the best start with matches for me.

 

[ikoiko]

Something I've been thinking about a ton while perusing the Drakes site and saving my favorite fits and pieces on my instagram wishlist. Will I get much use out of some of these pieces? I live in Southern California and basically only having 3 seasons, alot of the fits and pieces from Drakes might not get much use outside of trips and odd rainy day. I currently own a mole skin chore that is by far my favorite jacket, but gets benched from the months of May-October.

The casentino fleece has been a grail item for a long time. I owned the ALD purple one for about a week when I realized that I was basically cooking inside it. This was last December by the way. Sold it. Now I am back looking at the boucle fleeces and scarves and wondering if I'll run into the same issues.

For all you folks in warm weather areas, how do you justify some of the Drakes pieces you own? Also what signature drakes items do you feel work year around?

I’ve recently moved from SF, so I don’t think that counts. But…

The cotton/linen blend sweaters are particularly nice for warm weather, layering, or if you tend to run hot. Chore jackets in cotton, linen or tencel. Tropical wool or Irish linen tailoring. The denim is very lightweight. The hiking crew neck is the closest thing I’ve found to the perfect white tee.

Basically anything that lends itself well to layering.

The truth is you’re just not going to get a lot of use out of a large swath of the outerwear offerings, anything wool or corduroy unless you wear them for brisk mornings or chill evenings, or are fine bringing them out for special occasions.