The unofficial Drake's London Appreciation Thread

[Italianglo]

Does anyone own the SS 2017 D43 Linen Field Jacket that can speak to the quality and how it has held up over the years? I know I’ve interacted with one gentleman on here with it but I’m on mobile and can’t go back to check right now. I’d like to hear from multiple people if possible.

The Linen D-43 Field Jacket

The D-43 arrives in a rich, slubby linen for the Spring / Summer season.

www.drakes.com

From the photos I’ve seen, I think it would be perfect for my “capsule” spring/summer wardrobe. I don’t have many spring/summer items and want a few high quality pieces that will last.

I’ve been on the hunt for it for a while but am not having any luck. I reached out to Drake’s to ask if I could get one custom made but I have not heard back yet.

Similar recommendations are welcome. Or if you have one and are willing to part (I’m a 38), I would pay handsomely.

 

[dieworkwear]

Well I'm not an expert on this. But I am sure the four or five untipped ties I own from Drake's (made at their old haberdasher st. workshop) are hand-rolled. I have also got a pocket square from drakes, hand-rolled as well but not neatly made. Rubinacci pocket squares are handrolled. But I cannot speak for their tipped ties and new Italian made Bandana sure.

They are commonly advertised as handrolled and -sewn, but they are almost always machine-made. Sort of like how a lot of clothes are advertised as being handmade or -sewn, but they too are machine-made. The hand part is the operator pushing a piece of fabric through a machine. When people use the term "handrolled and -sewn" they commonly think of someone sitting in a room with just needle and thread. But this is not possible on a mass production level, or economical when you are selling things through various channels (e.g., stores and distributors).

Here is a Rubiancci pocket square. This is machine-made, but it's advertised as hand-rolled and -sewn. You can tell it's machine-made from the stitching.

This is the edge on a Vanda Fine Clothing pocket square, which is genuinely hand-rolled and -sewn. The upside to this type of construction is that you get more of an "artisanal" element since Gerald and Diana are doing all of the work themselves, and they work with just needles and thread. On the downside, they are often not able to do the specialty prints that you see at Rubinacci and Drake's because they don't sell enough to make so many unique fabric designs. These smaller companies are often using cut lengths of already printed silks. If they do a unique design, it's often on ink-jet printed silk, which works like your inkjet printer. This differs from the traditional way that silk is printed (by screen), which is a more labor-intensive process that requires companies to contract out a certain quantity (e.g., 60 meter rolls).

Here are the edges for a bunch of pocket squares (Rubinacci, Monsieur Fox, Drake's, Etro, and Hermes). I believe only the grey and navy pocket squares here are hand sewn.

A couple of ways to judge this: machine sewing is always going to be more regular than hand-sewing, so you can look for irregularities. Secondly, a handrolled and -sewn pocket square often, but not always, has hidden stitching, whereas the machine ones have exposed stitching.

It might take an operator about five minutes to finish an entire pocket square by machine, whereas it might take someone an hour to do it by hand. You can see how the cost in time (and labor/ wage) is not practical for a mass scale, especially if they are selling things through multiple channels that require mark-ups.

A video showing a hand-rolled and -sewn edge, so you can see how the process is done and how the finished edge looks.

 

[ProfDan]

Does anyone own the SS 2017 D43 Linen Field Jacket that can speak to the quality and how it has held up over the years? I know I’ve interacted with one gentleman on here with it but I’m on mobile and can’t go back to check right now. I’d like to hear from multiple people if possible.

The Linen D-43 Field Jacket

The D-43 arrives in a rich, slubby linen for the Spring / Summer season.

www.drakes.com

From the photos I’ve seen, I think it would be perfect for my “capsule” spring/summer wardrobe. I don’t have many spring/summer items and want a few high quality pieces that will last.

I’ve been on the hunt for it for a while but am not having any luck. I reached out to Drake’s to ask if I could get one custom made but I have not heard back yet.

Similar recommendations are welcome. Or if you have one and are willing to part (I’m a 38), I would pay handsomely.

I have one in navy. Mine has held up very well. I’ve been using it for over 4 years and it’s showing very little wear at all. It’s very light and surprisingly cool to wear. Overall I think it’s my favourite purchase from Drakes (although it’s close with the winter stable jacket).

 

[Zerase]

Does anyone own the SS 2017 D43 Linen Field Jacket that can speak to the quality and how it has held up over the years? I know I’ve interacted with one gentleman on here with it but I’m on mobile and can’t go back to check right now. I’d like to hear from multiple people if possible.

The Linen D-43 Field Jacket

The D-43 arrives in a rich, slubby linen for the Spring / Summer season.

www.drakes.com

From the photos I’ve seen, I think it would be perfect for my “capsule” spring/summer wardrobe. I don’t have many spring/summer items and want a few high quality pieces that will last.

I’ve been on the hunt for it for a while but am not having any luck. I reached out to Drake’s to ask if I could get one custom made but I have not heard back yet.

Similar recommendations are welcome. Or if you have one and are willing to part (I’m a 38), I would pay handsomely.

That would be me. I’ve been wearing it for the first time since I got it second hand last October, this week. Absolutely smashing jacket that is perfect for those days that are a bit chilly in the morning and warm in the afternoon. If you get your hands on one, buy it.

 

[paddymac]

That would be me. I’ve been wearing it for the first time since I got it second hand last October, this week. Absolutely smashing jacket that is perfect for those days that are a bit chilly in the morning and warm in the afternoon. If you get your hands on one, buy it.
View attachment 1783206

Nice! What size did you take?

From this review, it seems like sizing was all over the place with this piece...

Drake's D43 jacket - linen layer for summer and fall

If you are looking for a simple overcoat - the M-43 field jacket is a great choice. A bit different but a versatile option for smart and casual wear.

dresslikea.com

 

[Zerase]

Nice! What size did you take?

From this review, it seems like sizing was all over the place with this piece...

Drake's D43 jacket - linen layer for summer and fall

If you are looking for a simple overcoat - the M-43 field jacket is a great choice. A bit different but a versatile option for smart and casual wear.

dresslikea.com

I bought it second hand and it is a size M. I am usually a size 50 (EU) (in reality I am a 52 atm, trying to cut som weight come summer) and it fits me pretty darn well.

 

[hpreston]

The price is so marked up considering the quality of these Bandanas are just below average in terms of the hand-rolled edges...

I don't believe Drake's accessories have handrolled edges. They are all machine rolled and sewn, like Rubiancci's pocket squares.

They are commonly advertised as handrolled and -sewn, but they are almost always machine-made. Sort of like how a lot of clothes are advertised as being handmade or -sewn, but they too are machine-made. The hand part is the operator pushing a piece of fabric through a machine. When people use the term "handrolled and -sewn" they commonly think of someone sitting in a room with just needle and thread. But this is not possible on a mass production level, or economical when you are selling things through various channels (e.g., stores and distributors).

Here is a Rubiancci pocket square. This is machine-made, but it's advertised as hand-rolled and -sewn. You can tell it's machine-made from the stitching.


View attachment 1783127



This is the edge on a Vanda Fine Clothing pocket square, which is genuinely hand-rolled and -sewn. The upside to this type of construction is that you get more of an "artisanal" element since Gerald and Diana are doing all of the work themselves, and they work with just needles and thread. On the downside, they are often not able to do the specialty prints that you see at Rubinacci and Drake's because they don't sell enough to make so many unique fabric designs. These smaller companies are often using cut lengths of already printed silks. If they do a unique design, it's often on ink-jet printed silk, which works like your inkjet printer. This differs from the traditional way that silk is printed (by screen), which is a more labor-intensive process that requires companies to contract out a certain quantity (e.g., 60 meter rolls).


View attachment 1783128


Here are the edges for a bunch of pocket squares (Rubinacci, Monsieur Fox, Drake's, Etro, and Hermes). I believe only the grey and navy pocket squares here are hand sewn.


View attachment 1783130


A couple of ways to judge this: machine sewing is always going to be more regular than hand-sewing, so you can look for irregularities. Secondly, a handrolled and -sewn pocket square often, but not always, has hidden stitching, whereas the machine ones have exposed stitching.

It might take an operator about five minutes to finish an entire pocket square by machine, whereas it might take someone an hour to do it by hand. You can see how the cost in time (and labor/ wage) is not practical for a mass scale, especially if they are selling things through multiple channels that require mark-ups.

A video showing a hand-rolled and -sewn edge, so you can see how the process is done and how the finished edge looks.

Let's separate Drake's ties (made in the their own tie factory in London) from their pocket squares and other accessories.

I am confident their untipped/hand rolled ties, are indeed hand rolled. Scarves and pockets scares I think they source from Italy, and I can't speak to their construction. But the ties....

 

[dieworkwear]

Let's separate Drake's ties (made in the their own tie factory in London) from their pocket squares and other accessories.

I am confident their untipped/hand rolled ties, are indeed hand rolled. Scarves and pockets scares I think they source from Italy, and I can't speak to their construction. But the ties....

Yes, sorry, only talking about squares.

 

[wahnamhong]

Has anyone here shortened the sleeves on one of their chore coats? Usually I just turn the cuffs, but I’m considering shortening the sleeves on my woolen twill chore coat as it is a more formal jacket. Plus the lining is black, satin-like

I’ve just done something similar with a tweed blazer (not Drake’s) and that has given me some confidence it might work. Only thing I’m afraid of is that the opening of the arms may be too wide (feels like that right now but by turning it’s less of an issue). Thanks!

Navy Wool Five-Pocket Chore Jacket

100% Wool. Made in Portugal.

www.drakes.com

 

[LiamMcM]

Has anyone here shortened the sleeves on one of their chore coats? Usually I just turn the cuffs, but I’m considering shortening the sleeves on my woolen twill chore coat as it is a more formal jacket. Plus the lining is black, satin-like

I’ve just done something similar with a tweed blazer (not Drake’s) and that has given me some confidence it might work. Only thing I’m afraid of is that the opening of the arms may be too wide (feels like that right now but by turning it’s less of an issue). Thanks!

Navy Wool Five-Pocket Chore Jacket

100% Wool. Made in Portugal.

www.drakes.com

I did with my denim chore jacket and found the sleeve openings to be an issue necessitating either a roled sleeve, snaps at the sleeve or some other alteration.

 

[Bateman233]

Sees $150 generic bandana....Lol you've gone too far this time Drake's!....Oh it's sold out....

 

[ninzer33]

Does anyone own the SS 2017 D43 Linen Field Jacket that can speak to the quality and how it has held up over the years? I know I’ve interacted with one gentleman on here with it but I’m on mobile and can’t go back to check right now. I’d like to hear from multiple people if possible.

The Linen D-43 Field Jacket

The D-43 arrives in a rich, slubby linen for the Spring / Summer season.

www.drakes.com

From the photos I’ve seen, I think it would be perfect for my “capsule” spring/summer wardrobe. I don’t have many spring/summer items and want a few high quality pieces that will last.

I’ve been on the hunt for it for a while but am not having any luck. I reached out to Drake’s to ask if I could get one custom made but I have not heard back yet.

Similar recommendations are welcome. Or if you have one and are willing to part (I’m a 38), I would pay handsomely.

I picked one up at a sample sale in 2018 I believe. One of my most worn jackets when it's not winter. I typically wear a 38r in most tailoring and took a small. The arms are a bit big but it's cut somewhat slim through the body. The jacket has held up quite well in that time but I did have to replace a button. Collar stands up really well and it's a very versatile piece.

 

[bry2000]

Sees $150 generic bandana....Lol you've gone too far this time Drake's!....Oh it's sold out....

Either that or they sent the stock to the next sample sale location.

 

[espen]

New wool fleeces look great. Patchwork is a great move to standout against others in the market.

 

[wahnamhong]

Honestly just looking at a Patagonia retro-x fleece right now...