The Ultimate Toronto Thread

[dennistsang]

thanks for all the recommendation! I am look at the BROWN ALICANTE SUEDE - E (ULTRAFLEX SYSTEM) from Meermin now. What do you guys think on the City Lug sole? does it has enough grip over the snow?

By the way, if I am buying from Meermin, will there be a import tax to it?

 

[NVPG]

Here are two fun instagram accounts that I follow very closely, both of which I have found after I started doing my own deconstructions. They were both suggested to my by people that really enjoyed reading through my commentary.

This first account, deconstructs leather products from some popular and some non-popular brands that are either sent in for review by the companies themselves or by his followers. I'm not too well versed in leather products, but still find his videos fascinating. He describes the leather used, how much coating is on it, how detailed the finishings are to the quality of the hardware and estimates production cost. He estimated a $495 Gucci cardholder to have cost only $50 to make. I've been busy with my own work lately to do any more deconstructions, but this guy's videos give me great insight for what I can do differently in the future:



This next account can be more directed towards brand owners and creative directors that understand the lingo, or upskirting-clothing nerds that like to see fashion brands through a hidden lens of transparency. He discusses brands' production facilities; where they are, what the MOQ may be and how many other brands use them. He breaks down prices, quality control details. It's not all necessarily whistle-blowing, to me, he uses his platform more as a guide to help people get their brands started and how to locate manufacturers, but will occasionally post videos like the following, that show you the quality vs quantity levels of production for some RTW fast fashion brands. Similar to the above, and what I have done in the past in my posts, he explains how much things cost to make vs how much consumers pay for them.



Anyways, it's fascinating stuff to me, and it's cool to see I'm not the only one... I just kinda suck at doing it. If I was more comfortable in front of a camera, it could become a fun Youtube project...

I’ve gotten heavily into leather making in the last few years, specifically trying to replicate or rework designs/constructions from luxury companies using many of the same materials. With that said, I too follow Tanner.Leatherstein and from my perspective he’s kind of annoying and misleading. He’s a leather tanner but also admittedly doesn’t know much about the construction side of things (he admitted in his podcast talking to Peter Nitz). He claims all these dollar amounts that seem to be pulled out of his ass and doesn’t really discuss what a standard markup should be for a profitable brand. He only really points out one thing and it’s a pretty obvious fact—-that you are paying for a brand’s name. After that all he does is make clickbait that indirectly advertises his own leather brand. He recently made bags out of Togo leather (often used by Hermes) that retail for $1100. That’s a great competitive price for that bag…however I could easily use his reasoning to make that bag sound completely overpriced. The leather used was probably $80-$100 worth and if I downplay the complexity of different leather patterns I could say labour was another $150 therefore my magic number pulled out of ****** is $330! What you do with suits comes from a genuine sense of curiosity and discovery and it is interesting to see what you find every time you open up a suit. The leather guy knows how to get a following, but he’s dishonest and often times shows his lack of knowledge (but his audience doesn’t need to know any better so he gets away with it).

 

[abantigen]

I’ve gotten heavily into leather making in the last few years, specifically trying to replicate or rework designs/constructions from luxury companies using many of the same materials. With that said, I too follow Tanner.Leatherstein and from my perspective he’s kind of annoying and misleading. He’s a leather tanner but also admittedly doesn’t know much about the construction side of things (he admitted in his podcast talking to Peter Nitz). He claims all these dollar amounts that seem to be pulled out of his ass and doesn’t really discuss what a standard markup should be for a profitable brand. He only really points out one thing and it’s a pretty obvious fact—-that you are paying for a brand’s name. After that all he does is make clickbait that indirectly advertises his own leather brand. He recently made bags out of Togo leather (often used by Hermes) that retail for $1100. That’s a great competitive price for that bag…however I could easily use his reasoning to make that bag sound completely overpriced. The leather used was probably $80-$100 worth and if I downplay the complexity of different leather patterns I could say labour was another $150 therefore my magic number pulled out of ****** is $330! What you do with suits comes from a genuine sense of curiosity and discovery and it is interesting to see what you find every time you open up a suit. The leather guy knows how to get a following, but he’s dishonest and often times shows his lack of knowledge (but his audience doesn’t need to know any better so he gets away with it).

I don’t know anything about leather making but I got the same vibes from him.

I went to his online store and he claims all his products are handcrafted in his family workshop in Turkey. Would love to see someone more knowledgeable review the quality of craftsmanship of his products and see if it’s comparable to other reputable leather makers.

Like you said it does feel very disingenuous to only discuss the quality and price of materials to make his own products look good.

 

[NVPG]

He also has some rabid fans who go crazy any time the slightest criticism is made. His posts about customer service with The Real Real we’re especially idiotic. He returned an Hermes bag because it was listed as having “Togo” calfskin, but learned later that the bag is only made with “clemence” calf skin. He then went on to further post about the bad authentication process at the Real Real acting like he was a whistleblower (despite the fact that the authenticators make waaaay bigger mistakes and are pretty well known for it already). Meanwhile I couldn’t help but question why the guy who only buys bags to destroy them, would return a bag because it was made of a different calf skin that he himself, the leather expert, couldn’t distinguish in the first place (realistically they are almost identical, the difference being a male vs. female calf). It seemed like either he had no familiarity with those leathers or he just wanted to make it an issue for the sake of clicks…my opinion is that it was both. I ended up arguing with some insane woman so I just deleted my comment because I wasn’t gonna get riled up over some leather nerd beef.

 

[hysteria]

Has anyone ordered from Skoatibolaget? Just wondering if we'd end up having to pay duties on those.

Trying to figure out where to get some Skoati or Saphir shoe trees without being dinged for duties.

Looking for long shoe horn recommendations as well.

 

[goatamous II]

Has anyone ordered from Skoatibolaget? Just wondering if we'd end up having to pay duties on those.

Trying to figure out where to get some Skoati or Saphir shoe trees without being dinged for duties.

Looking for long shoe horn recommendations as well.

for the Saphir

Shoe Trees Archives - ShoeMedic

Invest in the longevity of your shoes with our high-quality shoe trees at ShoeMedic. Our shoe trees maintain shape, prevent creasing, and absorb moisture.

shoemedic.com

store is based on Oakville if you're ever in that area (Oakville Place specifically)

they carry shoe horns as well

 

[hysteria]

for the Saphir

Shoe Trees Archives - ShoeMedic

Invest in the longevity of your shoes with our high-quality shoe trees at ShoeMedic. Our shoe trees maintain shape, prevent creasing, and absorb moisture.

shoemedic.com

store is based on Oakville if you're ever in that area (Oakville Place specifically)

they carry shoe horns as well

THanks for the suggestion - that's very helpful.
Y'all think cedar vs beech shoe trees make a diff? Price diff is huge but I can't imagine it makes much of a difference in reality

 

[Omega Man]

How about Kirby Allison from the U.S.?

Luxury Wooden Hangers, Saphir Shoe Polish, Luxury Garment Accessories

Discover the world of quality, craftsmanship and tradition with our luxury hangers, Saphir shoe polish and other luxury clothing accessories for the well-dressed. Touted by world-recognized brands!

www.kirbyallison.com

 

[Simon Chambers]

THanks for the suggestion - that's very helpful.
Y'all think cedar vs beech shoe trees make a diff? Price diff is huge but I can't imagine it makes much of a difference in reality

Everyone I've heard talk on the subject recommends cedar, but I haven't actually looked further into beech.

 

[mebiuspower]

Cedar is what American brands uses versus European brands that use beech as cedar wood are supposedly readily available in the US vs Europe.

Cedar has a nice smell when new and supposedly absorb moisture more easily but ultimately the shoe trees are there to maintain the shape of the shoe.

 

[KWang94]

Likely not worth it for Canadians from a price perspective.

How about Kirby Allison from the U.S.?

Luxury Wooden Hangers, Saphir Shoe Polish, Luxury Garment Accessories

Discover the world of quality, craftsmanship and tradition with our luxury hangers, Saphir shoe polish and other luxury clothing accessories for the well-dressed. Touted by world-recognized brands!

www.kirbyallison.com

 

[suitforcourt]

Has anyone ordered from Skoatibolaget? Just wondering if we'd end up having to pay duties on those.

Trying to figure out where to get some Skoati or Saphir shoe trees without being dinged for duties.

Looking for long shoe horn recommendations as well.

Local guy in Mississauga

GTA Shoe Shine - Premium hand made shoes and shoe care products.

 

[gs77]

Local guy in Mississauga

GTA Shoe Shine - Premium hand made shoes and shoe care products.

+1
He even sent me a discount code for next purchase.

 

[Simon Chambers]

+1
He even sent me a discount code for next purchase.

I also second this, and received a discount code. Not sure where I put it though

 

[hysteria]

I also second this, and received a discount code. Not sure where I put it though

How are you getting the discount codes up front ?