The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[andrewmrsid]



Hey guys! I recently purchased these pants but unfortunately the waist is at least one size too big. Just wanted to see if anyone has a rough opinion of how many cm's the waist can be altered before throwing off the balance. The fit is good in the seat but the waist is 4-5cm too large. Is there a risk for the pockets to get too close to each other? Would be great to hear some thoughts!

Hi, are those Eidos? Cool pants, but they look like they don't have a split waistband construction. That means you can put a dart in the waist, like you might a shirt, going from basically your kidneys into the pocket area. You can not alter this waist and seat in a traditional fashion

 

[andrewmrsid]



Hello, can anyone please educate me on what is going on with my sleeves? To me it looks like the creasing is caused by narrow shoulders. However, the shoulders do not feel narrow at all. Is it fixable?

I believe the point to point of the shoulder is too narrow, which is impossible. Also, there might be too much fabric at the top of the sleeve, which is fixable but only by a very skilled tailor. It could be better, but never right.

 

[andrewmrsid]



Looking to get your thoughts on this shirt and what edits I can make on the next one to make the fit better. Overall, I think the arm holes should be cut closer to the chest, which would remove that excess fabric below the shoulders at the front.

I suppose it depends on the look your going for. Initially, I don't think the collar looks right. It seems far too soft and doesn't have a nice body. Also, I'd raise the armhole, and take in the back only an inch.

 

[Portabiti]

I believe the point to point of the shoulder is too narrow, which is impossible. Also, there might be too much fabric at the top of the sleeve, which is fixable but only by a very skilled tailor. It could be better, but never right.

Thank you for the reply. Why is it impossible that the point to point is too narrow?

 

[Legal Eagle]

Just got this suit. No alterations have been made. It's completely unfinished. Here is a front shot. I can get better pics but I am having my tailor take a look tomorrow.

My concerns are primarily the shoulders. There's a crinkling below the back center collar- like basically all OTR suits I try on- and this appears to be having some effect on the shoulders. Do the shoulders appear far too wide? The padding is slightly more than I typically associate with RPL.

Also, I wasn't positive the jacket isn't a tad long, I'm always on the cusp of a short vs regular, but this jacket had a BOC length that is equal to my short length suit coats, albeit with a slightly lower button stance at about 2 inches above my naval. I'll probably have the waist taken out a tad too, although I left the tacking on the side vents for now.

About me: 5'8" or so, 205 lbs. So much weight gained in the past 5 years. This is a 44R custom fit.




Thanks in advance.

Update. Here is the latest. I am having the suit sleeves shortening a tad more, as basically no cuff was showing. Sleeves were removed and the shoulders were narrowed. The tailor thinks he needs to widen the sleeve a tad because there was a small amount of pulling. There is essentially no back collar roll anymore. How bad is it looking? I am considering possibly shortening the jacket just a hair. I usually wear short sizes, and this is a regular RLPL, with a BOC that equals my short sized Blue Label and HF suits. Thing to note on the sleeves is that there isn't as much vent left on them, having to shorten them as much as I did. Wondering if that is also acceptable.

 

[jaywhyy]

What's the most a jacket waist/torso can be taken in without hurting proportions/pocket placement? I've read anywhere from as much as 5" to as little as 2".

 

[AdductorMagnus]

-edit

Wrong thread

 

[maximscandi]

Thanks for the feedback! They don't have a split waistband but they must surely be able to be altered in the back seam like a regular pair of trousers/jeans?

 

[Demean]

Hi guys. I would appreciate some help on figuring out why I get pretty aggressive creasing under the waistband on a pair of trousers. Is it the high waist? The creasing lines up with the tack thread for the pocket, so maybe that?

 

[greger]



Hi guys. I would appreciate some help on figuring out why I get pretty aggressive creasing under the waistband on a pair of trousers. Is it the high waist? The creasing lines up with the tack thread for the pocket, so maybe that?

The top edge of the pants is the wrong shape for your body. If you push that crease up to the waistband and make a chalk line then you can undo the waistband chalk a new curve that dips down to the chalk line (a gentle curve) and resew the waistband following that line. Another way is to measure how much is in the crease. Then directly above the crease measure down from the waistband and mark crease amount. Undo the waistband, draw the gentle curve (chalk) and resew. You may need an iron to press out any creases so you can draw the gentle curve. A few drops of water and set the iron down on it. If you push the iron make sure you don't stretch the cloth.

 

[kakashi]

Hi all, advice needed for my wedding suit. Does the lapel look flat in your opinion? thank you.

 

[ZyrtecNasonex]

Hello everyone!

Just got this shirt from Ratio. Upper torso/shoulder area looks awkward. Yoke does not rest on shoulders and there is fabric accumulation. What changes do I need to make?

 

[suchdoge]

Hi!

I purchased a PRL sport coat a while back, (two years). I have meant to alter it but somehow havent managed to do so.
Long story short: Am usually 50 in RL stuff, I got this one in 52L (support told me to), but 50L would maybe have been better to start with. I am looking to alter it, especially the waist/back, if possible might take a tiny bit on the shoulders.

Below is a comparison when I have altered the waist/back and taken in about 3 inches in the top pictures and about 2 inches in the bottom pictures.
I guess I now have four options:
A: 3 inches
B: 2 inches
C: Another amount of inches/alterations
D: Sell and get something else

What do you think and what do you think I should do? (Obviously im not going for the "classic-classic" fit with this one, i want the jacket to be slightly shorter etc)

See link for full resolution.

https://i.imgur.com/TDVPutL.jpg



Thanks!

 

[ericjens7]

If I were you I would buy a different coat from a different maker.
Most of your issues cannot be fixed by just taking in the sides.
You need to rotate the sleeves. Lengthen the front. Alter the back for pronounced blades. Shorten the back. And take in the back. You also have sloped shoulders that need to be accounted for. You also have a low right shoulder that also needs addressing. Most of this needs to be done when the suit is cut and would not be worth the time or money necessary to fix. If it can be fixed. Just taking in the sides is throwing good money after bad.

 

[suchdoge]

If I were you I would buy a different coat from a different maker.
Most of your issues cannot be fixed by just taking in the sides.
You need to rotate the sleeves. Lengthen the front. Alter the back for pronounced blades. Shorten the back. And take in the back. You also have sloped shoulders that need to be accounted for. You also have a low right shoulder that also needs addressing. Most of this needs to be done when the suit is cut and would not be worth the time or money necessary to fix. If it can be fixed. Just taking in the sides is throwing good money after bad.

Im gonna assume that was an answer to my post? If so, thank you for your answer!

The alterations are free for me though, as the tailor is a friend of the family.

Lets say I would get something else, do you have any idea what I would get if I would sell it? (polo ralph, 52L, not used too many times, store price ~6-700$ (i bought on sale though)). Just thinking that sure I might get something else, but if I would just get like 1-200$ selling it I might skip selling and just get the free alterations to it and use it until I buy something else.