The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[mensimageconsultant]



Hi all. I'm a newbie to the forum, though I have been following for a month or so. I am also new to wearing suits. In the past, I was not as dressed up. At any rate, I am trying to get a feel for suit fit, and have been going to try OTR suits, just for comparison. I'd like to check my impressions with those of the group here. What do you think of the fit of this suit?

Thanks in advance for your help!

The suit is too big in the shoulders (hard to fix) and too long in the sleeves. Also, the drape of the pants is wrong in a way that is best left for a tailor to figure out.

By the way, the shirt color is too dark for that suit.

 

[MattGuitar]

@mensimageconsultant Thanks for the feedback. I agree about shoulders and sleeve (and shirt color, but this was just what I had on from work that day). I wasn't thinking too hard about the pants.

I seem to have trouble finding OTR suits that simultaneously fit my shoulders, which are not particularly wide compared to my chest, which is a little over 41 inches. I guess I am trying to justify to myself (and my wife

) going with MTM at some point soon.

 

[Aloysius16]

Is there any advice on how to correct the fit issue shown below. I find on almost all OTR trousers that there is an excess of material at the outer seam around my seat and upper thigh (at and just below the pocket seam). This is frequently visible on the front silhouette (see bottom picture). It is presumably due to my narrow hips and flat seat, but I find that it is not corrected just by adjusting the hip and thigh circumference. What adjustment might be appropriate?

Perhaps connected, I also find that my trousers do not hang straight along the front (they gather along the knee/shin). This is the opposite to the photos I often see on SF where more 'amply posteriored' men have trousers that gather at the back of the leg. Again, how might this be adjusted? Is it a matter of leg 'pitch', rather like a jacket sleeve?

 

[The Dirk]

Hi all. first time poster. I just wanted to get some opinions on how many of these issues with this suit would be solved by going up a size? Particularly the divots/rumples in the shoulders. it's a size 42R and I'm debating between sending it back for a refund, or exchanging it for a size up. It's a really nice suit, I like the styling of it quite a bit, but I just don't think it fits my body well.

Thanks in advance for the help and opinions.

 

[Aloysius16]

I have a flat seat, so many of my trousers have an excess of fabric at the bottom of the 'cheeks. Some have a centre seam which has a longer 'horizontal' part at the base of the crotch. I have tried to draw this in the amateur cross-section picture below, where drawing 1 has a relatively straight line between the base of the front rise and the the rear waistband, whereas drawing 2 has this extended horizontal part (and tends to protrude at the base of my seat where I have marked in red). Am I correct in thinking that the shape of this area is referred to as the 'stride', and that it can be cut differently for flatter or fuller seats? Also, does stride refer to the 'shape' as well as just the length of the 'rear rise' (i.e. the seam length from the leg seam/fork to the rear waistband)?

 

[Ttailor]

Reply for The Dirk

Return it.
Try a size up or two, or a different brand/cut.
It is much too tight, pretty much everywhere.
Trousers are much too narrow at hem, and it doesn't look proportionally balanced.

 

[The Dirk]

Reply for The Dirk

Return it.
Try a size up or two, or a different brand/cut.
It is much too tight, pretty much everywhere.
Trousers are much too narrow at hem, and it doesn't look proportionally balanced.

I just don't want to make the exchange if there are going to be issues with the shoulders regardless, because of the way it's constructed. Or is this a legitimate case of the shoulders having issues because of the sizing?

 

[Kevin24]

I bought this Samuelsohn suit from Saks Fifth and had it tailored at the store as well.

Yesterday I wore it to a function and notice that the sleeves on the suit appeared long for the shirt I was wearing. So I couldn't show any cuff.

However, when I tried on other shirts with the Samuelsohn when I got home they largely fit perfectly with the sleeves.

Then again when I tried on the orginal shirt I was wearing with some of my other suits/sport coats sleeve/cuff lined up perfectly with them.

Sorry if this is all confusing. I was wondering if I have a shirt problem here or a shirt one? I.E. is one or the other too long for my body or both?

Thank you in advance!

 

[a tailor]

Hi Kevin

Go to search then ask for "tailors technical tutorials".
Scroll down to "shirt sleeve showing problem"..
That should help you.
Good luck.
Alex

 

[The Dirk]

@a tailor do you mind giving me a technical response to the pictures I posted above?

 

[hoxuantu]

I just received my new MTM suit. Please give me feedbacks. If you need more photos at other angle view, let me know.
Thanks a lot.

 

[a tailor]

Dirk

The reference that I gave you is the actual technical solution to your problem.

 

[a tailor]

Alyousis

People come in all kind of shapes., RTW makers can only make there garments in one average shape and hope fore the best.

You have a pretty good idea of the solution. Your tailor will grab a handful of cloth and make some chalk marks. This will show
him how the new seam will be made.
When the alteration is done the thigh circumference may appear too large, but this is a separate problem, and a separate
alteration, for a separate price.

 

[Odd I/O]



Dirk

The reference that I gave you is the actual technical solution to your problem.

I have one shoulder with quite a bit of a drop in comparison to my other shoulder. This results in a lot of folds in the fabric of my shirts under my arm pit. Would adjusting the slope for that shoulder solve this problem?

 

[a tailor]

That would take care of the shirts problem, But the jackets problem is separate
.
If you change the shirts shoulder, do it first.
Then see that all your shirts sleeves end at the same place.
Then do the suit sleeves.