The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[desastre]

Also, when doing MTM, how many passes will a tailor usually do to make the fit right before the alterations are made at additional costs? This isn't something my tailor and I agreed on. Though, on the trousers he has done a few additional adjustments at no additional cost. The jacket had a baste fitting, then an adjustment on the left shoulder (not sure what he did) to get rid of some rippling because of my left shoulder, unfortunately the back is still messy. I'll ask him about this, but what is the consensus regarding that?

Is it as many alterations until customer is 'happy'? Should there always be an agreed upon number of additional alterations before additional charges kick in? Etc. Thanks again everyone.

 

[table21]

Hey was looking for some advice, I am trying to find a suit brand that works for me. I took some quick pics of to suits I picked up last month and would like to know what you think of them, what you would change, which of the two looks better, and finally if you know of another brand that might work or works better?

Note: I know the first suit needs to have the pants lengthened. Its my first time putting it on after it was tailored and I guess the guy goofed somehow.

 

[Caveat]

Hi,

Picked up a jacket that is a little tight and doesn't have much to let out. Is there anything to work with here? And how much would it set me back?

First pic is the center back seam, second is one of the sides (the other side looks the same) and the third is to show how the lining is attached on the side, if that will be a problem. Thanks!

 

[BrooksLauren77]

Hey was looking for some advice, I am trying to find a suit brand that works for me. I took some quick pics of to suits I picked up last month and would like to know what you think of them, what you would change, which of the two looks better, and finally if you know of another brand that might work or works better?

Note: I know the first suit needs to have the pants lengthened. Its my first time putting it on after it was tailored and I guess the guy goofed somehow.

Just have your trousers slanted back towards the heel of your shoes and a couple of other minor fixes and you're fine although your jackets are too short for my tastes.

 

[Cpruessn]

Just got this, I like it but I'm not the best eye for fit and fashion. One big question, do the shoulders look okay? And what alterations should I get if I keep this? Thanks for the help guys, I'm glad there are people with good eyes out there for us style-blind guys.

 

[Coldsnap]

Is it a big process to raise the armpits in a bomber jacket? Also would want to make the sleeves a bit shorter, although the sleeve hems are ribbed but I think that shouldn't be a problem? My tailor is OK, she measures and people in the back sew it. I'd only trust them on minor things, is this not complicated? I like the bomber enough to make some adjustments instead of selling it. Thanks for any information

 

[Caveat]



Hi,

Picked up a jacket that is a little tight and doesn't have much to let out. Is there anything to work with here? And how much would it set me back?

First pic is the center back seam, second is one of the sides (the other side looks the same) and the third is to show how the lining is attached on the side, if that will be a problem. Thanks!

Bump because I need to return if this can't be let out.

 

[Despos]

Quote: Cannot answer you as accurately as if you take this to a tailor and ask. We don't know where the jacket is tight and where you need more cloth. The seams have a minimal amount to work with. On your pictures you can let out about 1/2" on these seams which isn't much but again we don't know where you need the jacket let out. Unlined jackets will always have less cloth to work with. They have little to no outlets.

 

[Despos]

Is it a big process to raise the armpits in a bomber jacket? Also would want to make the sleeves a bit shorter, although the sleeve hems are ribbed but I think that shouldn't be a problem? My tailor is OK, she measures and people in the back sew it. I'd only trust them on minor things, is this not complicated? I like the bomber enough to make some adjustments instead of selling it. Thanks for any information

Cannot be done. Find a jacket with armholes cut how you like them.

 

[Caveat]



Cannot answer you as accurately as if you take this to a tailor and ask. We don't know where the jacket is tight and where you need more cloth. The seams have a minimal amount to work with. On your pictures you can let out about 1/2" on these seams which isn't much but again we don't know where you need the jacket let out.  Unlined jackets will always have less cloth to work with. They have little to no outlets.

Thanks Despos. Are you saying I could have 1/2" total more room there from the 3 seams combined, or 1/2" from each? It's got only one button, and it's quite high, and the jacket is a little tight there where it buttons.

 

[Despos]

If you need more cloth across the fronts, letting out the center back won't contribute much. You didn't post a picture so the issue at the front button may be related to something else. Take it to a tailor and ask.

Yes you will get 1/2' per seam.
To get more cloth on the fronts you might need the sides let out and the front shoulder squared uo to pull the cloth forward where it is needed. Just guessing.

 

[macjedi]

Hi-Ya Fellas!

I'd love to get some advise and feedback on this Kent Wang trial suit. Just to be clear, it's a stock 34R. No alterations or changes made. I'm having a MTM summer suit made in the coming weeks and would like to hear some thoughts. I'm also interested in learning more about what works for my body type and things to watch out for moving forward.

I was measured by Kent at a trunk show last year, but never followed thru on ordering till now. Kent's recommendations last year were:

34 jacket
Sleeve -1 cm
Back chest -1.5 cm
Waist +2 cm

30 trouser
Seat +0.5 cm
Front rise +1 cm, back rise -1 cm
Inseam 28.5"

Thanks so much!!!

Spoiler: Front

Spoiler: Side

Spoiler: Back

Spoiler: Trousers

 

[mjmyers28]

Hello Gentlemen,

I was infomed that the best hope for my post was in this thread so here it is...

I've been contemplating a career as a bespoke tailor. The issue is that I have no real experience and just turned 23. I know this would not be easy and obviously wouldnt happen over night or even 1825 nights. Underestimate? However, I am still sincerely interested in pursuing this as a career and would greaty appreciate a little advice on what it takes, where to start or if it is just not realistic at this point and I should stick to being a corporate robot. Thanks guys!

 

[OTCtailor]

Hello Gentlemen,

I was infomed that the best hope for my post was in this thread so here it is...

I've been contemplating a career as a bespoke tailor. The issue is that I have no real experience and just turned 23. I know this would not be easy and obviously wouldnt happen over night or even 1825 nights. Underestimate? However, I am still sincerely interested in pursuing this as a career and would greaty appreciate a little advice on what it takes, where to start or if it is just not realistic at this point and I should stick to being a corporate robot. Thanks guys!

PM Me and Despos

combine the feedback and proceed appropriately as you see fit

Or continue to be a corporate robot...cuz this ain't easy.

Just sayin'

 

[OTCtailor]

Also, when doing MTM, how many passes will a tailor usually do to make the fit right before the alterations are made at additional costs? This isn't something my tailor and I agreed on. Though, on the trousers he has done a few additional adjustments at no additional cost. The jacket had a baste fitting, then an adjustment on the left shoulder (not sure what he did) to get rid of some rippling because of my left shoulder, unfortunately the back is still messy. I'll ask him about this, but what is the consensus regarding that?

Is it as many alterations until customer is 'happy'? Should there always be an agreed upon number of additional alterations before additional charges kick in? Etc. Thanks again everyone.

OK...ANYONE WHO IS LOOKING AT MTM OR CUSTOM CLOTHING THAT IS ANYTHING OTHER THAN "BESPOKE" PLEASE READ AND REPOST WHERE EVER YOU SEE FIT BECAUSE THIS IS VALUABLE INFO.

SORRY FOR THE CAPS AND THE BOLD TEXT BUT THIS IS BOTH IMPORTANT AND VERY HELPFUL....READ ON:

MTM HAS 2 NECESSARY INGREDIENTS: THE SELLER/TAILOR AND THE MFG (MANUFACTURER)

IF 1 OF THE 2 INGREDIENTS AREN'T "ALIGNED" PROPERLY, THERE IS THE POTENTIAL FOR PROBLEMS. I.E:

1) IF THE SELLER/TAILOR SUCKS BUT THE MTM MFG IS AMAZING: YOU COULD LOSE...OR GET LUCKY. IN THIS CASE IT'S A CRAP SHOOT. THE AMAZING MTM MFG IS JUST DOING WHAT THE CRAPPY SELLER/TAILOR IS TELLING THEM TO DO. BLAME THE SELLER/TAILOR.

2) IF THE SELLER/TAILOR IS AMAZING BUT THE MTM MFG SUCKS: YOU COULD LOSE...OR GET LUCKY. IN THIS CASE IT'S A CRAP SHOOT. THE MTM MFG CANNOT ACCOMMODATE FOR THE EXCELLENT ABILITY OF THE TAILOR TO MEASURE AND OBSERVE YOUR POSTURE. IN THIS CASE, BLAME THE SELLER/TAILOR FOR CHOOSING A BAD MTM MFG.

SO HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHO IS WHO AND WHAT IS WHAT????????????????????

ASK THESE QUESTIONS TO THE SELLER/TAILOR AND PAY ATTENTION TO THE RESPONSE (ESP IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO PURCHASE A BIG MONEY SUIT):

1) HOW CONFIDENT AND ACCURATE ARE YOU IN MEASURING A CLIENT? (ASK WITH A VERY STRAIGHT FACE IF NEED BE)
2) HOW MUCH OF YOUR BUSINESS IS MTM AND HOW MUCH IS ALTERATIONS (OR BESPOKE)? (AGAIN WITH A VERY STRAIGHT FACE IF NEED BE)

IF YOU GET A GOOD RESPONSE FROM THESE 2 QUESTIONS THAT INSPIRES SOME CONFIDENCE, PROCEED WITH THESE QUESTIONS RELATED TO MFG PATTERN ADJUSTMENT ABILITY:

CAN YOUR MFG....

1) ADJUST FOR SHOULDER SLOPE/SHOULDER SQUARE AT VARIOUS DEGREES OF EACH?

2) ADJUST FOR STOOPED/ERECT POSTURE AT VARIOUS DEGREES?

3) ADJUST FOR PROMINENT CHEST/BACK BLADES? HOW SO?

4) ADJUST FOR FORWARD/BACKWARD PITCHED SHOULDERS?

5) ADJUST FOR FORWARD/BACKWARD ARM POSITION/SLEEVE PITCH?

6) ADJUST FOR FORWARD/BACKWARD HIPS ON BOTH JACKET AND PANTS? ALSO KNOWN AS SWAYBACK...

7) ADJUST FOR PROMINENT/NORMAL/FLAT SEAT?

8) ADJUST FOR STOUT/PORTLY/CORPULENT STOMACH?

9) ADJUST FOR KNOCK KNEE OR BOW LEG (AND PROMINENT CALF)?

10) ADJUST FOR FINISHED THIGH/KNEE/CUFF MEASUREMENTS?

AND IF THE ANSWER IS "YES" TO ALL OF THESE QUESTIONS, YOUR FINAL QUESTION SHOULD BE...
"CAN YOUR EYES PHYSICALLY OBSERVE ALL OF THESE THINGS ON A BODY IN ORDER TO TELL A MFG WHAT TO DO?????"

"IN OTHER MR. SELLER/TAILOR, CAN YOU SEE ME??"


AND FINALLY.....IF THE SELLER/TAILOR CANNOT ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS AND INSPIRE A FAIR AMOUNT OF CONFIDENCE TO ASSURE YOU OF A QUALITY PURCHASING DECISION, YOU SHOULD BE CAUTIOUS BEFORE YOU SPEND THAT MONEY AND ASK FOR SOME AFTER PICS OF ACTUAL FITTED RESULTS.
IF THERE IS NO VISUAL PROOF OF QUALITY RESULTS THEN RUN AWAY. IF THEY SHOW YOU QUALITY RESULTS THEN OPEN UP YOUR WALLET AND SPEND TO YOUR HEART'S DESIRE.


PLEASE REPOST EVERYWHERE BECAUSE THIS IS HOW MTM IS SUPPOSED TO BE DONE.


AGAIN, SORRY FOR THE CAPS!!!