The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[1up]

Hi Tailors, would appreciate some information and knowledge for the next time I attempt a MTM.

This suit is primarily for events, weddings, dinners. Something more modern and less traditional, unlike my work suits.

I'm happy with the suit in most respects, but I wonder how to get rid of the horizontal bunching on the pants, without increasing the width of the hips/seat/thighs and losing the slim fit look. I notice that if I stick my butt out more and arch my back, the wrinkles go away. Is this postural?

Any other observations?

Few quick disclaimers:
- Excuse the shirt, was all I had at this residence
- Suit is in bad need of a press, traveled with it. If the pics are too affected by it I will take others.

 

[greger]

Something else about curved cuts- the dynamics of the cloth is changed because of the bias. Cloth is always more stretchy on the bias. This is good some places and failure other places.

 

[OTCtailor]

If a person has forward shoulders, it means their shoulders pitch forward as if hunched over. Backward shoulders is the opposite in which a person seems to hold their shoulders as if puffing out their chest.
When shoulders are forward in a jacket, there is usually a pinch felt at the front part of the shoulder coming into contact with the front part of the armhole on the jacket. There is a proper pattern adjustment for this so it can be built into a jacket. @Despos knows more about it than I do as I believe that is a large part of what makes his jackets so unique.

If you saw the diagram on the fixing it for an OTR jacket, it does involve removing the sleeves, cutting off the collar, and shifting the foreparts of the jacket outward towards the shoulder ends. There has to be enough outlet underneath the collar for this to take place and in most OTR jackets there is not. Even on most MTM there is not enough there.
If there is, the shift is done and the overhang/excess is shaved off on the front of the armhole. The sleeves are reattached and the collar is reattached.

 

[forbritisheyes]

Thank you, OTCtailor. I did see this a while ago:

I guess I was just looking for this to be restated more clearly:
"Flip up the coat collar. See the different cloth, its the under collar. And the cloth of the suit extends under there. All depends on how much cloth is under there. So here is how it goes.

The sleeves are removed, also the collar is removed except where it is attached to the lapels.
The shoulders are also opened up. all the linings are opened where needed.
The first diagram shows the neck hole exposed. the larger curve shows where the under collar was sewn.Now the front shoulder seam is shifted outward and sewn in that shifted position
Check the dotted lines. At the neck the cloth that was under hidden under the collar moves out.
And we have a new curved line at the gorge where the collar is reattached.
At the arm hole we now have excess cloth see that dotted line. This excess is cut off and we have a new armhole curve.
Now all that is left to do is to put all the pieces back together."

I don't understand what the "pinch" means. Can you or @Despos describe what the sensation is when identifying an OTR coats' shoulders are not accommodating my own forward shoulders(and others?). Is this phenomena mutually exclusive with sleeve pitch?

 

[Despos]

Quote: Substitute pressure for pinch. Downward pressure from the jacket shoulder pressing against your shoulder.

There is more to this than the diagram shows. Sometimes you want to square the front shoulder, baste a bit more fullness into the back part of the shoulder and work/stretch the canvas over the shoulder point. When you set the sleeve, a bit of fullness over the shoulder point helps too. Sometimes I let out the center back seam at the neck. This is how you get the extra width to put more fullness in the shoulder on the back part. Let out center back and move the neck point over to make the back shoulder wider.

 

[OTCtailor]

Substitute pressure for pinch. Downward pressure from the jacket shoulder pressing against your shoulder.

There is more to this than the diagram shows. Sometimes you want to square the front shoulder, baste a bit more fullness into the back part of the shoulder and work/stretch the canvas over the shoulder point. When you set the sleeve, a bit of fullness over the shoulder point helps too. Sometimes I let out the center back seam at the neck. This is how you get the extra width to put more fullness in the shoulder on the back part. Let out center back and move the neck point over to make the back shoulder wider.

Because most people with more forward shoulders will usually have more prominent and wider blades, right?

I mean, I have this exact build. Relatively flat chested but broad back and rolling forward shoulders.

 

[greger]

That is because your back is rounded from armhole to armhole making a longer length and to keep the circumference the across chest has to be shorten. It is always give and take or a larger or smaller circumference.

 

[Despos]

Because most people with more forward shoulders will usually have more prominent and wider blades, right?

Not necessarily.

 

[forbritisheyes]



Substitute pressure for pinch. Downward pressure from the jacket shoulder pressing against your shoulder.

There is more to this than the diagram shows. Sometimes you want to square the front shoulder, baste a bit more fullness into the back part of the shoulder and work/stretch the canvas over the shoulder point. When you  set the sleeve, a bit of fullness over the shoulder point helps too. Sometimes I let out the center back seam at the neck. This is how you get the extra width to put more fullness in the shoulder on the back part. Let out center back and move the neck point over to make the back shoulder wider. 

So I guess my plan to buy something I know fits me well - other than the forward shoulders bit - and then get the shoulders shifted is moot then because there isn't enough allowance most of the time?

 

[Despos]

It isn't any easily executed adjustment and the result of all the effort may not be significant. It is a time consuming job to do on a finished jacket and the amount of improvement uncertain.

 

[mainevent330]

Looking for advice..I got some button down shirts as gifts. They all kinda fit like this, different brands. This one is Benson, size medium, regular fit.

If I were to take it to a tailor, what would i tell them to do for a better fit? I could wear tucked or untucked.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Hey mainevent, I moved your post over here so these guys can help you out. Welcome to the forum.

 

[mainevent330]

Hey mainevent, I moved your post over here so these guys can help you out. Welcome to the forum.

okay sorry I am new to the forum

 

[Murlsquirl]



okay sorry I am new to the forum

No need to apologize! I just wanted to get you where you can get the most help.

 

[forbritisheyes]

No need to apologize! I just wanted to get you where you can get the most help.

What a champ :]