The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[OTCtailor]

Help on both the shirt and pants, if anyone is willing. The shirt is a luxire copy of a Hamilton bespoke shirt. Something may have gotten lost in translation, because I don't think my Hamilton is quite this messy in the back. Nonetheless, it would be easier to correct luxire via email for a subsequent shirt than to resubmit my Hamilton.

The pants are by a local bespoke-offshoring tailor, Q Tailors, here in Houston. They're ok, probably my best fitting pair of pants, and this is a first commission, but I still feel like I could iron out a few things via alteration before trying at a second pair.

I'm totally open to any suggestions. I'd love to clean up around the shoulders on the shirt (front and back) and get the pants to hang straight down from the seat.

Thanks a ton

Try darts in the shirt. Have the seller check the shoulder slope. Less rise in the back of the trouser. Seat curve needs to be more hollow on that pair.

 

[OTCtailor]

Would like to seek some help from the experts here, need some help on my first suit. so many lines everywhere....

The shoulders are not cut sloped enough for your shoulders. Have a tailor insert a pad while you're wearing the jacket and see the difference. That may also change the sleeve length a little if you decide to do that. The vents may not be wide enough over the seat. The pants need to be adjusted in the seat and back rise to help with the collapsing cloth.

 

[OTCtailor]

Sorry for making you look at my crotch and bottom, but does anyone have any advice for cleaning up the seat and the crotch section? I'd also like to increase the rise for my next order, without creating a saggy seat, so any advice on that is also greatly appreciated! Thank you!

The seat curve needs to be hollowed more or taken in at the lower portion of where it curves. That will take out the wedgie wrinkle. Also, the rear fork must be let out to give space to the seat and crotch.

 

[OTCtailor]

First of all, sorry for the bad pictures. I had my pants made from a local tailor. Please critique my pants fit. Everything seems alright but when I sit, it felt really tight and unbearable. The tailor got me a "tailored" and a "slim" look but it felt just too snug. Do I need to change anything to make it feel better? I already had them open the seam on the thigh and it's the most they can do.

As of now, my planning to change the cut for my next pairs. I'm thinking towards a more classic fit as I am used to comfort. Thanks!!

Open the seam at the thigh? That could mean a variety of things...
The rear fork could be released and that may help things. In general, you can do this slim fit if you have double darts over the back pockets, and extra rear fork quantity. it's for prominent seat. Less rise in the front will also help balance the trouser a bit.

 

[OTCtailor]

Looking for some advice. I plan on order a pair of MTM gray flannel trousers and taking measurements from my "best pair of fitting pants" which unfortunately are the ones shown below. Any critique on the measurements? More in the hip? less in the rise? should I take in the legs? Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't measure off the pants. Have someone measure your true waist and seat. You can keep the rise from these (outseam minus inseam) but they need to have less rise in the back, and be adjusted for flat seat and forward hips

 

[OTCtailor]

The shoulder blades here are messy. What do I need to communicate to the alterationists to get this fixed?

Have them insert a pad to see how that affects the wrinkles. Basically, the back part of the shoulder needs to be more sloped.
If it's MTM...a little more slope, maybe a smaller point to point, less half back, higher armhole, consider the pitch of your shoulders and if the MTM house can adjust for that.

 

[OTCtailor]

Is this threak dead?

No. In case you haven't noticed, the menswear industry is experiencing a nice little growth spurt and those of us who operate a tailoring business are, well, a little busy.
We try to answer as fast as possible.

 

[sixfiveoh]

JCrew Ludlow - This is probably one of the better fitting suits off the rack that I've bought, but the jacket still looked a little boxy to me. I have an 8-9" drop so I took it in to have the waist taken in just slightly. I also had the sleeves and the pants shortened just a little bit. Now I've been sitting here looking at the pictures and I can't help but fear it'll come back looking too small. What do you think? based on these before pictures, were these alterations warranted? I can always call my tailor and cancel. Anything else that sticks out to you guys?

 

[greger]



Hi, I would greatly appreciate some comments on this jacket. (preferably about the length of it) It is a Polo Ralph Lauren, Yale sports coat, basket weave. Will wear this as an everyday jacket with pretty much everything (jeans, chinos, tie/no tie etc) I know the sleeves are a bit short, but theres excess material for that. I am thinking about the overall length of the jacket. It does not quite reach the knuckles (which classic menswear would suggest), but fashion seem to prefer shorter jackets now as most jackets I tried fit like this one. If not considering classic menswear fit, but just fit in general and how it looks, how is the length? (I believe shorter jackets look good in general but im pretty long, 193cm, 6.33 ft) Thanks in advance! With jeans and oxford:

There are no "rules" to clothes. Just look at history and you can see that if there are rules everybody here has busted them. Maybe the rules started in the Grden Of Eden before fig leaves. Clothes are ever changing so fit into your group and other requirements, such as work and other places where clothes may be different than you group. One person said your coat is short like womans- that is hogwash as history shows coats of many lengths and many reasons as new ideas came with there new reason for them- primarily fun. So enjoy your age group and push those who's advice don't understand your age group out. Afterall new ideas are part of life.

 

[The Louche]



Have them insert a pad to see how that affects the wrinkles. Basically, the back part of the shoulder needs to be more sloped.
If it's MTM...a little more slope, maybe a smaller point to point, less half back, higher armhole, consider the pitch of your shoulders and if the MTM house can adjust for that.

Thank you. It is MTM. The armhole is already pretty high and the point-to-point seems right, too, so I will try to share your additional insights about slope and back width measurements.

 

[Monkeyface]

The seat curve needs to be hollowed more or taken in at the lower portion of where it curves. That will take out the wedgie wrinkle. Also, the rear fork must be let out to give space to the seat and crotch.

Thank you so much for your advice. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment on here.

 

[The Louche]



Have them insert a pad to see how that affects the wrinkles. Basically, the back part of the shoulder needs to be more sloped.
If it's MTM...a little more slope, maybe a smaller point to point, less half back, higher armhole, consider the pitch of your shoulders and if the MTM house can adjust for that.

The maker emailed me and said that minor adjustment was possible, but that due to the soft shoulder, sloping shoulder, and high armhole, some un-cleanliness was to be expected. Hmmm ... ?

 

[bklyndoc12]

Recently got a good deal on these OTR tweed pants. I am concerned about the fit, specifically in the seat. I want to know if these are workable before I hem them. Thanks in advance and I would greatly appreciate any advice you have to offer.

 

[hoodog]

Here are some pics from my last Luxire order: a shirt and a pair of pants.
Any comments on fit and how to improve it is greatly appreciated!

Many thanks in advance!

 

[AchtungBaby07]

Xposted from the Hong Kong Tailor Thread, http://www.styleforum.net/t/33568/the-hong-kong-tailors-thread/1620#post_7143504


Would appreciate all the big timers' opinion on the first fitting for my suit made at Moda Republic. I've requested for a notched lapel, double vented, fully canvassed two button suit.

The most obvious problem for me were the trousers, especially at the bunching at the seat/thigh area and have requested for this to be fixed. I've also requested for the tailor to clean up the back the jacket as there were some creases. The tailor has pinned up the top portion at the back of the jacket to "clean up" some of the creases (as seen from the back view). I had also requested for the sleeves to be shorten, which explains why the end of the sleeves were folded up. Appreciate all your comments on how to improve the fit of the suit!

Front view


Back view



Side view