The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[arglist]

Hi

I have this MTM shirt which I find fit's rather well (for online MTM). I feel like I should adjust for sloping shoulders AND for forward shoulders to get rid of the wrinkling around my shoulders/neck.

Do you agree and if yes, how much adjustment should I ask for? If no, what else could be adjusted?

 

[oolongtea]

Hi there,

I was hoping to get some feedback regarding the following shirt and key measurements to change to improve fit

// Untucked









//Tucked









Cheers,
Oolong

 

[Shirtmaven]



Hi guys!

I received my first Proper Cloth shirt and I'm seeking your advices as to how I can improve the fit and get perfect measurements stored for futures orders.

I ordered a shirt made with the Ivory fine twill, English spread collar (I would've went with the President or Milano II spread but this shirt was made intentionally to be worn with a black bow tie, hence the classic-er collar), Tuxedo front placket, side pleats and French cuffs (onyx studs and cufflinks not yet acquired so not pictured). I also paid for MOP buttons.

I'll post the pictures first and my comments afterward (please excuse the out of focus pictures, I had no remote control and had to rely on camera timer and luck):

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

What I like:

- Basic measurements are dead on; collar diameter, yoke width, shirt length, cuff diameter, sleeve length, etc., are according to measurements. Collar is a tad loose but I haven't washed the shirt yet and Proper Cloth assures that the collar should shrink ¼-½" which would make it perfect - not too tight, not too loose.

- Fabric feels good for one of their cheaper fabric (95$) and construction is of quality. Please keep in my I don't have experience with higher-end shirts such as Finamore, Barba, and the likes so I can't compare.

- Customer service and turnaround time are perfectly acceptable. Website is a joy to use.

What could be improved:

- There's a lot of excess fabric in the midsection area. Still, I measured myself, got myself measured by my fiancee and double checked our measures. I checked the Slim Fit option so I'm not sure why the fit is so baggy.

- I went with the Normal shoulder insertion but Slim forearm option. It gives the sleeve a too much aggressive taper (IMHO). Since there's some excess fabric in the shoulder area, I may have the shirt remade with the Tailored shoulder fit option. Maybe it will help reduce the sleeve wrinkles in the same time. Should I reduce sleeve length by 1"? I'm afraid that they appear the right length only because the cuffs lay against my wrist bone/hand junction.

- I checked the Normal neck option but I think I should've checked the Backward neck option. There's a bump of fabric that bothers me, as if the yoke regurgitates over the back of the collar. Would checking the Backward neck option (½" or a full inch) would resolve the problem? It's hard to notice on the less-than-stellar blurry pictures I've submitted.

I'll cross-post this post in the seller's affiliate thread to get more replies.

Thanks guys and don't be afraid to hurt my feelings. I'm okay with critics.

fits well for a self measured shirt. the fabric around the waist is fine. you need to sit down!

 

[Shirtmaven]



I just got my first MTM suit in the mail today. Shoulders seem a bit too large, back looks pretty funky and pants thighs a bit full. Any suggestions/comments would be most helpful. Thanks!

you have sway posture was this accounted for? were you measured for this suit

 

[Shirtmaven]



Hi I have this MTM shirt which I find fit's rather well (for online MTM). I feel like I should adjust for sloping shoulders AND for forward shoulders to get rid of the wrinkling around my shoulders/neck. Do you agree and if yes, how much adjustment should I ask for? If no, what else could be adjusted?

not sure how the mttm program works but you have very sloping shoulders with a right low. add 1/2" to the yoke for comfort and an 1" in the chest.

 

[Shirtmaven]



Hi there, I was hoping to get some feedback regarding the following shirt and key measurements to change to improve fit // Untucked //Tucked Cheers, Oolong

sleeves are too full hips are too tight. the collar looks huge on you. cuffs too large

 

[Casualguy]

I was measured for the suit and the difference in shoulder height was accounted for. I don't know about swayback posture.

 

[StraitUpSuburbs]

It's a PRL U.S. Made Club Blazer I got off the bay and it seems to be made of a Jersey type material (I think)
It's a 40R. I think the sleeves are a tad short but there's excess material, and I might get the sleeves tapered a bit cause they're a little baggy in the upper arm area. I might also get it suppressed in the waist a TINY bit, but I'll let you guys help me with that. The center vent is opening a little bit, so I think it might be at it's max tapering. Also.. these jeans with this blazer? I like the denim and blazer look, and I'd probs omit the Indy's, but overall, yes or no?
Thanks!
Edit: Is there something up with the sleeve pitch? Is that's what's causing the weird bunching on the sleeves? Can this be fixed? Will tapering the sleeve like I intended to help at all?

 

[Isolation]

Hi, these are my three suits/suit jackets from Hong Kong. The 2 button is WW Chan, the other two are Simpson Sin, which is 1/3 the price. On the black jacket in two of the pictures I think the fabric got caught on the my right, but you can see from the other picture it hangs normally.

Would like to know whether significant alterations are required, a general comment on the quality/comparison of quality between the two tailors, as I plan on going to them for more in the future, and if I do, what I should look for for my fittings to ask them to change.

Thanks a lot.

 

[Displacement]

I think this questions might be a bit too broad (foreshadowing pun), but could a bespoke suit made for a guy with my shoulders but a broad pear shape be cut to a more traditional drop 7? The suit I'm looking at has room in the chest piece, but fits across the shoulders and upper back, then gets downright stupid from the chest down.

Here are a couple general pics for reference, sorry they were taken by a salesman who once told me the Kiton shirt I was handling had cardboard in the collar:

Edit: deleted some terrible photos

 

[blong]

Hello,

I recently received my first MTM suit from Indochino. I'm 5'2" 120 lb, so have never had a suit or jacket that fits well (even the 35 X-short OTR I've bought are a little too big). I'm not entirely satisfied and plan to apply for a re-make. But I'm not quite sure how to describe the issues to Indochino.
* I'm unhappy with the shoulder divots. A local tailor told me the sleeve needs to be a little bigger around my bicep to get rid of this. I wonder if the shoulders are a little too big, if this would also contribute? The shoulders feel comfortably snug, so perhaps not. But again, I don't know what a good fit should feel like.
* There is a gap between the lapel and my chest, as if the jacket is a little too roomy here. But I don't know which measurement would need adjusted.
* There is also a little collar gap when I pull on the jacket. But when my tailor tugged on the coat in a certain way, the gap mostly disappeared. However, I wonder is this natural? I'm not going to think to tug on the coat in just the right way every time I put it on.

Other observations from my tailor:
* The jacket is about 1/2 inch too short.
* The pants are too big around my thighs.
* Pant length should be about an inch longer.

I welcome any advice regarding how to deal with my above concerns in the remake process. Feel free to pick apart other details I may not be considering as well. I realize I'm not going to get bespoke quality here. But I'd like to have something presentable for the occasional wedding or job interview. And obviously OTR does not work for me.

Thanks!



Cause of the shoulder divots? Sleeve too tight around bicep?


It feels like the lapel pulls away from my chest too much.

 

[OTCtailor]

I think this questions might be a bit too broad (foreshadowing pun), but could a bespoke suit made for a guy with my shoulders but a broad pear shape be cut to a more traditional drop 7? The suit I'm looking at has room in the chest piece, but fits across the shoulders and upper back, then gets downright stupid from the chest down.

Here are a couple general pics for reference, sorry they were taken by a salesman who once told me the Kiton shirt I was handling had cardboard in the collar:

no

 

[Rory Duffy]

Hello,

I recently received my first MTM suit from Indochino. I'm 5'2" 120 lb, so have never had a suit or jacket that fits well (even the 35 X-short OTR I've bought are a little too big). I'm not entirely satisfied and plan to apply for a re-make. But I'm not quite sure how to describe the issues to Indochino.
* I'm unhappy with the shoulder divots. A local tailor told me the sleeve needs to be a little bigger around my bicep to get rid of this. I wonder if the shoulders are a little too big, if this would also contribute? The shoulders feel comfortably snug, so perhaps not. But again, I don't know what a good fit should feel like.
* There is a gap between the lapel and my chest, as if the jacket is a little too roomy here. But I don't know which measurement would need adjusted.
* There is also a little collar gap when I pull on the jacket. But when my tailor tugged on the coat in a certain way, the gap mostly disappeared. However, I wonder is this natural? I'm not going to think to tug on the coat in just the right way every time I put it on.

Other observations from my tailor:
* The jacket is about 1/2 inch too short.
* The pants are too big around my thighs.
* Pant length should be about an inch longer.

I welcome any advice regarding how to deal with my above concerns in the remake process. Feel free to pick apart other details I may not be considering as well. I realize I'm not going to get bespoke quality here. But I'd like to have something presentable for the occasional wedding or job interview. And obviously OTR does not work for me.

Thanks!



Cause of the shoulder divots? Sleeve too tight around bicep?


It feels like the lapel pulls away from my chest too much.

Hey Blong, had a look over your pics and thought I'd offer my two cents.

Divots on the sleeve caps can be caused by a number of issues, too tight through the shoulders, too tight through the bicep, too long in the sleeve cap or a combination of these.
Its probably too long in the sleeve cap, this is more common with men who work out, their arms bend more and tend to sit off the body resulting in less sleeve cap being required.

Its sitting off on the left side as you said, it needs to be crooken on this side to bring it on to the neck (check out my video on crookening and mark stitching, for a brief explanation ).
Difficult to do on a finished coat as there is rarely the inlay on the shoulder point to maintain the shoulder width during alteration.

From the side view is lots short in the back balance, this is causing the visible drag on the left side at the back of the armhole, see too how the coat fails to hug the wearers back under the blades.

As for it sitting off the chest, a neck dart would solve this issue. The dart is placed under the lapel through the break line stemming from the gorge directed to the prominence of the chest. I believe all MTM and RTW should have this dart as standard.

The trousers need to be shrunk at the back of the thighs and stretched for the calf muscle, Jeffery D posted some great pics here the last time we where discussing shrinking and stretching of trousers. The hems are a little long as you say, this is probably to do with the hem width. The narrower the hem the shorter the trouser, minus a 1/2" in length for every inch off width, meaning a 18" hem would be 1/2" longer than a 17" hem.


In summary, take a 1/4" off the top of the sleeves, introduce a neck dart (on your next suit) of 3/8" through the break and pass up the back balance 3/4" (difficult to do on a finished coat as there is little inlay on the hem and none on the shoulders). Shrink and stretch the trousers and shorten to your desired length.

 

[ben1234]

Anyone know what's going on with these pants? I'm talking about all the wrinkling in the back. Front looks fine. Yes I know the length is off. This is an OTR suit.

 

[Rory Duffy]

Anyone know what's going on with these pants? I'm talking about all the wrinkling in the back. Front looks fine. Yes I know the length is off. This is an OTR suit.

Looks like knock knees, not usual with men who are typically straight to bow leg.
The cloth twists in the leg causing the wrinkling at the knees as they are coming together and opening out for the feet.

In bespoke this would have been allowed for in the cut of the trouser, the leg needs to be cut closed. However thats no help here.
It can be alter though the process is a little unorthodox.

Rip out the inside leg seam and side seam to crotch level, stretch the cloth on the side seam above and below the knee and shrink the cloth on the opposite side (inside leg seam) the shrinken cloth can be held in place by using straight grain tape.
Would only advise this as a method of last resort, and may not work with light weight cloths and non wools.