The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[AdamWill]

Hello gents. I'm new to trying to dress well, and after taking the time to learn a bit about the basics and fit, I've finally gotten my first suit. I opted for a lower end MTM worsted navy. I would be very grateful for any comments and advice on fit that you may have. If it helps, I'm a mid-20's grad student living in NYC.

Not a tailor, but that's pretty off in a lot of ways...there's a ton of elements about the jacket that combine in a way which is entirely at odds with your body shape. The narrow lapels, short jacket, high buttoning point, and very open collar just look horrible together, it's way out. Also looks like there's a lot wrong with the pants, but I can't tell you what precisely. Sorry to be negative :/

 

[OTCtailor]

i have a new question for the tailors here on the balance on pants.

a few pages back one of the members posted some pics, one with the pants having balance issues in the back with extra fabric under the seat:



my question is, how exactly would this be fixed through alterations? I'm *assuming* the waistband would be taken off and then re-sewn higher up, gradually, from back to front, like so:



so would this be an effective alteration in theory to fix this problem? and if that's how to fix that problem, would the hem at the bottom of the pant need to be re-done diagonally to compensate?

More like the band is removed and reattached lowered in the back. The lower it needs to go, the more it has to be removed up front. The lowering has to be gradual from front to back.
The other component is the reshaping of the seat. Hard to say what yours needs with your jacket on but it could be just a matter of hollowing the seat curve a bit and letting out the rear fork. This just allows the fabric to be pulled up by the waistband but also be kindof lifted off and away from your seat. In some cases, the seat must be let out in order to straighten the seat angle for a very flat seat. Then the back part of the hip seam must be taken in to compensate for what was let out.
No hem adjustment is required.

 

[OTCtailor]

OTC, what is the giveaway that rolls can be resolved by lowering the collar as opposed to another issue? Would prominent blades cause rolls as well?

Rolls under the collar can technically be caused by a wide variety of issues. Sometimes it's tightness over the blades. Sometimes it's excessive incline, forward shoulders, short collar.
Based on the pics, it looks like there's just too much incline which lowering the collar some would help. If it's tightness over the blades, lowering the collar will really not help. In that case, more fullness needs to be thrown over the blades. That's the tailor's skill in deciding what is happening.

 

[OTCtailor]

Hello gents. I'm new to trying to dress well, and after taking the time to learn a bit about the basics and fit, I've finally gotten my first suit. I opted for a lower end MTM worsted navy. I would be very grateful for any comments and advice on fit that you may have. If it helps, I'm a mid-20's grad student living in NYC.

The side view tells most of the story here. The front balance is too short. This is causing the lapels to fan away from your chest and causing the quarters to invert. Your posture is likely more erect than the jacket is cut for. It's not a satisfactory result for MTM no matter the cost.

 

[OTCtailor]

About the low end navy MTM suit....The measurements mightof been accurate, but the postural observations were not. Posture more erect. Shoulders a little more sloped and backward pitched. A slightly lowered button stance and longer length jacket will do good things for you. If you're trying to be fashionable, lengthen by .5 to 1". A more classic length would be 3/4 to 1.5" longer. Sway back and forward hips. Maybe semi prominent seat.
Go back to the maker and see what their remake policy looks like because you can't lengthen the front balance, lengthen the jacket, or move the button stance.

 

[Why Am I]

The side view tells most of the story here. The front balance is too short. This is causing the lapels to fan away from your chest and causing the quarters to invert. Your posture is likely more erect than the jacket is cut for. It's not a satisfactory result for MTM no matter the cost.

About the low end navy MTM suit....The measurements mightof been accurate, but the postural observations were not. Posture more erect. Shoulders a little more sloped and backward pitched. A slightly lowered button stance and longer length jacket will do good things for you. If you're trying to be fashionable, lengthen by .5 to 1". A more classic length would be 3/4 to 1.5" longer. Sway back and forward hips. Maybe semi prominent seat.
Go back to the maker and see what their remake policy looks like because you can't lengthen the front balance, lengthen the jacket, or move the button stance.

Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it. I agree that the button stance is far too high. Maybe my prominent seat threw them off. I don't think it's worth getting a remake when they got it this wrong after spending such time measuring me. I'll be asking for a return. The search for suiting made for the shorter prominent-seated man continues.

 

[beauregard]

Rolls under the collar can technically be caused by a wide variety of issues. Sometimes it's tightness over the blades. Sometimes it's excessive incline, forward shoulders, short collar.
Based on the pics, it looks like there's just too much incline which lowering the collar some would help. If it's tightness over the blades, lowering the collar will really not help. In that case, more fullness needs to be thrown over the blades. That's the tailor's skill in deciding what is happening.

Thanks for the insight, OTC. Rolls have been a nagging problem for me with various jackets I've owned/tried. Trying to understand more. Again, thanks for the time.

 

[AdamWill]

The side view tells most of the story here. The front balance is too short. This is causing the lapels to fan away from your chest and causing the quarters to invert. Your posture is likely more erect than the jacket is cut for. It's not a satisfactory result for MTM no matter the cost.

hey, that does explain absolutely everything that looked wrong to me but I couldn't quite see the reason for...that's why you're the tailor

 

[MacGuffen]

I'm taking this Suitsupply York Plain Blue to my tailor, and was hoping for some advice on what to alter. I know the pictures are horrible, so I'm not expecting the world, but some comments on the following would be nice:

Sleeve length
Collar gap (?)
Waist suppression

The arms are wrinkled in the pictures, but not when standing normally, so I don't think I have to rotate the sleeve heads.
Pants are too tight in the waist and seat, and have to be let out as well.

My post seems to have drowned already in other posts, so I'll try again.

 

[SuitsHarvey]



Sleeves are definitely too short. Pants look like the seat/thigh width might be off a little? Not sure why they're bunching on the hamstrings.

But in general the size fits(jacket length? proportions?) and with a few alterations(a bit longer sleeves, less bunching on the pants) it looks decent? Or should I go with a different size?

 

[ShawnBC]

Hi guys!

I received my first Proper Cloth shirt and I'm seeking your advices as to how I can improve the fit and get perfect measurements stored for futures orders.

I ordered a shirt made with the Ivory fine twill, English spread collar (I would've went with the President or Milano II spread but this shirt was made intentionally to be worn with a black bow tie, hence the classic-er collar), Tuxedo front placket, side pleats and French cuffs (onyx studs and cufflinks not yet acquired so not pictured). I also paid for MOP buttons.

I'll post the pictures first and my comments afterward (please excuse the out of focus pictures, I had no remote control and had to rely on camera timer and luck):

































What I like:

- Basic measurements are dead on; collar diameter, yoke width, shirt length, cuff diameter, sleeve length, etc., are according to measurements. Collar is a tad loose but I haven't washed the shirt yet and Proper Cloth assures that the collar should shrink ¼-½" which would make it perfect - not too tight, not too loose.

- Fabric feels good for one of their cheaper fabric (95$) and construction is of quality. Please keep in my I don't have experience with higher-end shirts such as Finamore, Barba, and the likes so I can't compare.

- Customer service and turnaround time are perfectly acceptable. Website is a joy to use.

What could be improved:

- There's a lot of excess fabric in the midsection area. Still, I measured myself, got myself measured by my fiancee and double checked our measures. I checked the Slim Fit option so I'm not sure why the fit is so baggy.

- I went with the Normal shoulder insertion but Slim forearm option. It gives the sleeve a too much aggressive taper (IMHO). Since there's some excess fabric in the shoulder area, I may have the shirt remade with the Tailored shoulder fit option. Maybe it will help reduce the sleeve wrinkles in the same time. Should I reduce sleeve length by 1"? I'm afraid that they appear the right length only because the cuffs lay against my wrist bone/hand junction.

- I checked the Normal neck option but I think I should've checked the Backward neck option. There's a bump of fabric that bothers me, as if the yoke regurgitates over the back of the collar. Would checking the Backward neck option (½" or a full inch) would resolve the problem? It's hard to notice on the less-than-stellar blurry pictures I've submitted.

I'll cross-post this post in the seller's affiliate thread to get more replies.

Thanks guys and don't be afraid to hurt my feelings. I'm okay with critics.

 

[Tuck16]

Hey all,

I would appreciate your thoughts on the fit of this sport coat. Thanks!

 

[BolognaFingers]

Here is my shirt from Proper Cloth. Any suggestions?

 

[europrep]

x-posting from Luxire thread at the suggestion of @mrjester .

Fresco pants from Luxire. I didn't take pics with the purposes of posting publicly, so excuse the t-shirt.

 

[Casualguy]

I just got my first MTM suit in the mail today. Shoulders seem a bit too large, back looks pretty funky and pants thighs a bit full. Any suggestions/comments would be most helpful. Thanks!