The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[MTC87]

If I want a new pair of trousers altered to fit as similarly as possible to an existing pair, is there any way to use the existing pair as a pattern? I plan to stop by my tailor next week to ask if he can do that, but I wanted to get some thoughts on whether this is feasible.

 

[plainnerd]

Bought these two jackets today, I wanted something a little more casual and these seemed to fit the bill. Can I get a quick opinion on the fit? Both seem a little short and slim, but I'm short and slim so I think it works.

 

[Amontilado]

I ordered a shirt online with following measures for the waist:
front waist width: 17.75"
back waist width: 15.75"

The shirt arrived with

front waist width: 43 cm ~16.9"


back waist width: 41cm ~16.1"



So total waist about 33.0".
Unfortunately too small for me.

I contacted the manufacturer and got replied that this is normal as "(17.75"+15.75")/2= 16.75" on average. Thus front waist would always be 16.75".
For me this doesn't make any sense for several reasons and sounds like an excuse not to remake the shirt. But could you please give advice on this matter?

Thanks alot.

 

[punit12]

Looks good but could still use some alteration. It would go with a variety of shirts - white, light blue, pink.

Thanks, what were you thinking? Shorten sleeves and maybe the length of the suit? Or is the length ok?

 

[in stitches]

@Despos @jefferyd @emptym and anyone else with a good working knowledge of tailoring.

i have some jackets that are a little too snug around the gut, and want to have them taken out. my first inclination is to have that done from the side seams, the same place where one would take in a jacket for some suppression. i have also heard of people taking out a jacket from the back center seam.

is there ever a time where taking it out from the back center seam is preferable?

 

[Hendricks433]

I've been looking for a cheaper first suit for a while(wear one maybe 2 times a year). I was browsing a Jcrew Factory store yesterday to kill time and some how found a navy suit and they had one pair of pants in a 30/30 that fit me(Felt like a miracle, need to get them slim'd down though). I got it for $153 with discounts. How does this fit? Its a 38S and the body of the jacket seems on the short side but they didnt have a 38R. Also I see an issue with my left should and I have that with virtually every jacket I've tried on in my search for a suit. If I keep it what I should I get done?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Bought these two jackets today, I wanted something a little more casual and these seemed to fit the bill. Can I get a quick opinion on the fit? Both seem a little short and slim, but I'm short and slim so I think it works.

The second one is too short, and I don't like the closed quarters. The first one looks nice though.

 

[emptym]

Hendrick's433, that looks pretty good to me for OTR. The sleeves look like they need to be shortened a bit. My only criticism of it would be stylistic: the lapels are skinny and the length looks a little short. But you may like those details, which are trendy now.

@Despos @jefferyd @emptym and anyone else with a good working knowledge of tailoring.

i have some jackets that are a little too snug around the gut, and want to have them taken out. my first inclination is to have that done from the side seams, the same place where one would take in a jacket for some suppression. i have also heard of people taking out a jacket from the back center seam.

is there ever a time where taking it out from the back center seam is preferable?

Sorry I missed this earlier, S. JD and CD know much, much, much, more about tailoring than I do. The only thing I know about your question is that generally it's more time-consuming to do it with the side seam than the center seam, since it involves twice the cutting and sewing. In fact, some places charge twice the amount to do the alteration w/ the side seams. I'm not sure which is best. Variables in one's physique and the jacket's cut may determine that. It could even be that at times it's best to have all three done.

 

[in stitches]

thanks for the reply, m.

interesting stuff. i learned that with waist suppression you should go side seam or you throw off the vents. i have a jacket i need to take out, and there is no extra fabric in the side, only the back, and i am hoping that doing it that way will be ok. my tailor seemed fine with it, but i was looking for any and all opinions. also, if i dont like how it looks/feels, i can always have her take it back to the way it was.

 

[jefferyd]



@Despos @jefferyd @emptym and anyone else with a good working knowledge of tailoring.

i have some jackets that are a little too snug around the gut, and want to have them taken out. my first inclination is to have that done from the side seams, the same place where one would take in a jacket for some suppression. i have also heard of people taking out a jacket from the back center seam.

is there ever a time where taking it out from the back center seam is preferable?

Fat tends to accumulate toward the sides of the waist , not in the middle of your back, so that is where adjustments for girth should really be done. Alteration tailors who mess with the center back seam to adjust the waist are generally being lazy, except in the case of sway back.

 

[in stitches]



Fat tends to accumulate toward the sides of the waist , not in the middle of your back, so that is where adjustments for girth should really be done. Alteration tailors who mess with the center back seam to adjust the waist are generally being lazy, except in the case of sway back.

thanks, jeffery! that is a great point.

this tailor has done adjustments from the side for me before, and i was hoping to that again. but in this case it turns out there is just no extra fabric there, only about and inch of excess fabric in the center back seam. any reason to think this wont at all be effective or that it would mess up the jacket?

 

[jefferyd]



thanks, jeffery! that is a great point.

this tailor has done adjustments from the side for me before, and i was hoping to that again. but in this case it turns out there is just no extra fabric there, only about and inch of excess fabric in the center back seam. any reason to think this wont at all be effective or that it would mess up the jacket?

Depends on the original shape of the CB seam. Will it be effective in increasing the girth? Yes. Is it ideal? Not really, but it is better than the opposite, that is to say, suppressing the waist at CB which tends to create a mess. It's also better than not being able to wear it at all.

 

[Despos]

If I may contribute here. If you need more across the front to comfortably button the jacket, letting out the center back is as far from where you need the cloth as you can get. If the center back seam is the only cloth available, you don't have much choice. Sometimes I will square the front shoulder at the neck to pull the cloth over the stomach and only if it doesn't effect the balance.
It helps move the cloth where you need it but doesn't always work since if you have a belly you need more length over the fronts.

 

[in stitches]

you guys are awesome. seriously. its stuff like this that makes SF so great. i really appreciate the answers, JD and CD. thank you both very much.

 

[iLLmAtiCiAn]

Wondering if it is possible to make a dress shirt slightly larger in the body? Maybe like half an inch or maybe an inch?