The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[tuna roll]

I commissioned some shirts from a shirtmaker in Naples for the first time and they came out pretty snug. Is there a way to alter them or is this pretty much the end-product? Would love to hear other people's experiences. I see some excess fabric in the back but not an expert at shirt alterations. Thank you in advance!

Are there darts at the back of the shirts? A photo would help. Removing the stitches that hold them is an easy fix that adds a decent amount of volume to the body.

 

[Skeem1]

Are there darts at the back of the shirts? A photo would help. Removing the stitches that hold them is an easy fix that adds a decent amount of volume to the body.

Yeah I can see darts in the back also around armholes.

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Yeah I can see darts in the back also around armholes.


View attachment 2260851

Yeah thats probably the problem, also why the sleeves are so "loose" compared to the overall snug fit of the button up

 

[Skeem1]

Yeah thats probably the problem, also why the sleeves are so "loose" compared to the overall snug fit of the button up

I don’t mind the sleeves being a bit loose. So would you suggest just taking the back darts off?

 

[ManuMICHEL]

I don’t mind the sleeves being a bit loose. So would you suggest just taking the back darts off?

yes, the back darts are probably the cause of the "being snug around the chest and waist", and as they dont appear to be big in "value", you won't lose the "fitted" silhouette while still being comfortable

 

[Skeem1]

yes, the back darts are probably the cause of the "being snug around the chest and waist", and as they dont appear to be big in "value", you won't lose the "fitted" silhouette while still being comfortable

Will give it a try thank you for your suggestion

 

[stubbsj20]

Could this jacket be cleaned up/altered in the mid back/blades area? Or would it require major surgery/re-cutting?

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Could this jacket be cleaned up/altered in the mid back/blades area? Or would it require major surgery/re-cutting?

Hi! This seems like sagging around the "shoulder blades to waist". This could be recutted without a problem, since the problem is not that theres missing fabric but rather an abundance of fabric, so yeah, its a rather easy fix!

 

[Despos]

Could this jacket be cleaned up/altered in the mid back/blades area? Or would it require major surgery/re-cutting?

It’s not so easy to reduce and clean up the blades. The sleeve needs to be opened from the bottom of the armhole to the shoulder and maybe more if it’s necessary to narrow the shoulder. Part of the drag is from the shape of your shoulder blades. Tailor needs to know jacket construction and how to work the back scye “short” and create shape over your blades. The side seams have to be opened and the back part alone reduced. Cannot take in the side seam on the side body because usually there is no outlet. If you reduce the side seam it distorts the shape of the armhole and the sleeve won’t fit into the armhole as it should.
Just saying the tailor you use should have this experience to do the job properly so you are pleased with the outcome. If he has the experience and know how, will cost you more. The adjustment is more about technique and execution. Some tailors have only done alterations and may lack knowledge of the nuances of sewing technique.
There may be more involved here but we only see one picture of the back to analyze.

 

[stubbsj20]

It’s not so easy to reduce and clean up the blades. The sleeve needs to be opened from the bottom of the armhole to the shoulder and maybe more if it’s necessary to narrow the shoulder. Part of the drag is from the shape of your shoulder blades. Tailor needs to know jacket construction and how to work the back scye “short” and create shape over your blades. The side seams have to be opened and the back part alone reduced. Cannot take in the side seam on the side body because usually there is no outlet. If you reduce the side seam it distorts the shape of the armhole and the sleeve won’t fit into the armhole as it should.
Just saying the tailor you use should have this experience to do the job properly so you are pleased with the outcome. If he has the experience and know how, will cost you more. The adjustment is more about technique and execution. Some tailors have only done alterations and may lack knowledge of the nuances of sewing technique.
There may be more involved here but we only see one picture of the back to analyze.

Thank you for your detailed response. Attached are a couple additional photos — I don’t know if they will alter your original opinion at all.

 

[Brendon]

Could this jacket be cleaned up/altered in the mid back/blades area? Or would it require major surgery/re-cutting?

Hi if you are ok with the front being slightly shorter about 1/2 inch then I would pass the back up on the coat. The jacket is short in the back balance. Major job to fix and without seeing a photo of the front possibly not worth it. You would need to re instate the edge stitching on the front If money was no object and you possess a decent tailor then...Undo the side seams and sleeve up to the back pitch mark. A mark on the front side seam 1/2 higher than the back and push the back up into the arm scye. Same with the lining. I would take the collar off as you need to square the back neck ( stump/stub the collar)about 6mm neck and draw the melton of the collar at the nape a little and shrink it away throwing fullness behind your neck. In extreme cases you can make a drawn in pad for this as well below the line of the melton( very effective last measure). The sleeve fits back in easily and if you needed to take the back of the coat in undo the sleeve all the way to the crown and reduce the coat. Draw the back scye with some tape and shrink away the fullness pushing it into the coat. If it was for me I would also take the collar centre seam in a tiniest amount 3mm to get the curve a little more in the centre seam coming out a couple of mm then in a little down to a couple inches above the vent. I am sure there is something I may have forgotten but I have done this several times when I took in alterations a long time ago and it took about 3hrs on quality garments. You can save time if the jacket will stand slanting down to nothing at the front then there is no need to get into the edge stitching much. Sometimes up around the neck on factory jobs when you undo one thing you have undone more so suddenly you have 2 things to stitch up instead of 1.
Good luck with it. I would only do this on a good suit ie cost vs cost
Brendon

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Hi! This seems like sagging around the "shoulder blades to waist". This could be recutted without a problem, since the problem is not that theres missing fabric but rather an abundance of fabric, so yeah, its a rather easy fix!

What the fixes you guys are saying are really true! I took just one look at the pic and just guessed, which of course was bad, so yeah, don't pay attention to this post. Sorry if I misinformed.

 

[stubbsj20]

Hi if you are ok with the front being slightly shorter about 1/2 inch then I would pass the back up on the coat. The jacket is short in the back balance. Major job to fix and without seeing a photo of the front possibly not worth it. You would need to re instate the edge stitching on the front If money was no object and you possess a decent tailor then...Undo the side seams and sleeve up to the back pitch mark. A mark on the front side seam 1/2 higher than the back and push the back up into the arm scye. Same with the lining. I would take the collar off as you need to square the back neck ( stump/stub the collar)about 6mm neck and draw the melton of the collar at the nape a little and shrink it away throwing fullness behind your neck. In extreme cases you can make a drawn in pad for this as well below the line of the melton( very effective last measure). The sleeve fits back in easily and if you needed to take the back of the coat in undo the sleeve all the way to the crown and reduce the coat. Draw the back scye with some tape and shrink away the fullness pushing it into the coat. If it was for me I would also take the collar centre seam in a tiniest amount 3mm to get the curve a little more in the centre seam coming out a couple of mm then in a little down to a couple inches above the vent. I am sure there is something I may have forgotten but I have done this several times when I took in alterations a long time ago and it took about 3hrs on quality garments. You can save time if the jacket will stand slanting down to nothing at the front then there is no need to get into the edge stitching much. Sometimes up around the neck on factory jobs when you undo one thing you have undone more so suddenly you have 2 things to stitch up instead of 1.
Good luck with it. I would only do this on a good suit ie cost vs cost
Brendon

Thank you as well for the very detailed response! It is much appreciated.

 

[JibranK]

It's lived rent free in my head that a couple years ago I had a commission that was in fact a perfect 60s drape cut, and somehow after receiving the finished garment I felt it was too big and sent it back to alter with a clean chest. I feel haunted when I see the photos I took of the supposed poor fit.

(In my defense, my previous tailor was a military style firm so I was used to that.)

 

[ManuMICHEL]

It's lived rent free in my head that a couple years ago I had a commission that was in fact a perfect 60s drape cut, and somehow after receiving the finished garment I felt it was too big and sent it back to alter with a clean chest. I feel haunted when I see the photos I took of the supposed poor fit.

(In my defense, my previous tailor was a military style firm so I was used to that.)

Damn, was it a bad fit though? looking at it now?