The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

It’s tricky to recut the sleeve head when shortening from the top. Didn’t see a back view to observe this but it doesn’t look like the sleeve pitch is off. Think the issue is how the sleeve head was recut. It’s out of balance with the armhole. They might have cut too much off, doesn’t look like there is much fullness worked into the sleeve. Could also be the sleeve wasn’t set properly.
Did the tailor see this on you when you picked the jacket up?
If he fixes this, ask for a basted fitting before they finish the adjustment.

 

[Theyerdal]

It’s tricky to recut the sleeve head when shortening from the top. Didn’t see a back view to observe this but it doesn’t look like the sleeve pitch is off. Think the issue is how the sleeve head was recut. It’s out of balance with the armhole. They might have cut too much off, doesn’t look like there is much fullness worked into the sleeve. Could also be the sleeve wasn’t set properly.
Did the tailor see this on you when you picked the jacket up?
If he fixes this, ask for a basted fitting before they finish the adjustment.

Okey thanks for taking the time. I don’t think he saw it, at least I didn’t but I was in a hurry at the time and just looked at the sleeve leangth. Good tip to ask for a basted fitting, I have never done that before but it’s obviously a good idea! 👍🏻

 

[Despos]

View attachment 2239283 View attachment 2239287 View attachment 2239285
The first time I've had a suit made in a lightweight fabric or from this firm. I'm still figuring out what I make of it. I think the narrower wrap is throwing me off.

@JibranK
I see it the same as you see it; overlap looks skimpy. Would add 3/4" to the front edge and change the button configuration.

Button spacing on this is longer vertically and more narrow horizontally. Would reverse this. Set the buttons farther apart on the horizontal line , across the front and closer together on the vertical line. More flattering and would give you the look I think you want.
If I find a picture, will post in this thread

 

[Despos]

Button spacing wider horizontally. slightly less vertical spacing

Equal spacing horizontally and vertically

 

[Despos]

This is close to the jacket you have

This is how some tailors did it in the 40's
Even wider button spacing, horizontally

 

[JibranK]

Makes sense to me, @Despos. Thank you! I’ll bring that up ahead of the next commissions.

This is how my previous tailor cut a DB (4X2 in this case):

About two inches more in the spread.

 

[DorianGreen]

View attachment 2244267
This is close to the jacket you have

View attachment 2244269 This is how some tailors did it in the 40's
Even wider button spacing, horizontally

I clearly prefer rhe wide button spacing.

 

[Despos]

Makes sense to me, @Despos. Thank you! I’ll bring that up ahead of the next commissions.

This is how my previous tailor cut a DB (4X2 in this case):
View attachment 2244395

About two inches more in the spread.

To get 2” wider over lap, add 1” to the edge.

compare both jackets by laying the jacket flat and measure from the center back seam to the front edge at the buttoning point on the waist. This is called “half waist measure” or “girth measurement”
Or lay the other jacket on top of the dark jacket and see the difference.

 

[Despos]

I clearly prefer rhe wide button spacing.

Lower picture of the brown check?
This was first picture I found. Would improve the styling,to my eye, if both buttons were .5” lower and the waist suppression higher than the buttoning point.
Button point is lower than the narrowest part of the suppression on the sides in this picture. Makes a big change visually when the button is lower than that point of suppression.
Both navy jackets in the first post are examples of what I’m saying.
Buttoning point on or below the waist suppresion.

On another note, lapels are hideous and not harmonious with this style DB.

 

[Peak and Pine]

So is it the ideal placement when the two buttoning buttons and their decorative mates form the four points of a perfect square?

 

[Despos]

So is it the ideal placement when the two buttoning buttons and their decorative mates form the four points of a perfect square?

Ideal is subjective. Point of the post is a visual of the most common button configurations. Size of the jacket and proportions aside, it’s a matter of preference and something to ask and talk about when anyone orders and has a DB made. It’s an advantage to know what you like and prefer so you don’t get surprised by something you don’t like if there was no discussion or direction given.

 

[thisismrleung1994]

Hi
May I ask a question?
I have recently tailor made a suit for my wedding banquet.
It seems to have excessive creases on the upper back. The tailor explained to me that it was normal as we would not make it too tight as shown in the second photo.
Also it seems to be so tight at the lower back although I wore it comfortably overall.
May I get advice on how to fix it ?
Thank you.

 

[othertravel]

Hi
May I ask a question?
I have recently tailor made a suit for my wedding banquet.
It seems to have excessive creases on the upper back. The tailor explained to me that it was normal as we would not make it too tight as shown in the second photo.
Also it seems to be so tight at the lower back although I wore it comfortably overall.
May I get advice on how to fix it ?
Thank you.

Was it bespoke? If so, your tailor did a garbage job. He also loses points for saying it was normal to have creases like that.

 

[othertravel]

Here’s an MTM I had done a few years back. It had some issues, but the back was almost perfect.

 

[stu len]

General question: can a tailor slim down lapels by roughly half an inch? I read in an old forum posting that a user had the lapels on a couple of suits takin in by having a tailor reduce the fabric from the inside of the jacket, thus having no changes made to the outside edge of the lapel/buttonhole area.

Would also like to know if this is a complicated and therefore costly endeavor. Thanks in advance!