The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[flashwhite]

they look very nice and classic to me, the fit and the length it's quite nice ate the sleeves buttonholes open or closed? i would alter this suit, they fit quite nice and they are only minor changhes, shouldn't be complex or expensive. to give you an idea, my tailor takes 25 euros to shortening the sleeves. If you have to do that from the shoulder it's a bit more expensive, but a good tailor should be able to do it.The jackets are long, but i would say that for a DB it's actually very correct! if you want you can even ask to a tailor to make it shorter, but i wouldn't (thata's also about personal taste). I don't think it's 80's the shoulders here look constructed, but in a very tastefully way, they are not super big like in 80's fashon. the lapel it's medium- big, i would say around 10 cm maybe, but it's very nice and aslo quite modern, about current trends. Are this
handmade or a more ready to wear suits? i would say it's worth it.

The buttonholes are closed. They might not even be holes, just thread.

As far as ready to wear or more handmade, im not sure. Id lean toward made to measure/handmade because there dont appear to be any size tags, apart from the tailors name inside the jacket, and there is a lot more material on the inside of the trousers than in used to, but that might not mean anything.

 

[eguk]

Hi - Can anyone educate me on why the skirt(?) of this MTM jacket flares out at the bottom, to the sides of my hips, and if/how it can be fixed?

I don't feel like the waist is overly tight but perhaps my hips are too wide for this much waist taper? (Although I'm sure I've seen examples of jackets that are very shaped at the waist but the skirt still falls more vertically against the hips - which is what I'd like ideally).

Is it a case of taking in the side seam, right where the vent starts? Would this effectively change the angle at which the skirt falls (needs to be more vertical as opposed to diagonal in my view)?

Appreciate any input you guys have. (p.s. apologies for the wrinkles, it's a 100% linen jacket)

 

[Cidermonk]

How do I clean up this mess on the back side of my trousers? There is pulling at the base of the seat in a "V" shape with excessive horizontal and diagonal folds of fabric of the back panel of the thighs. The trousers have been ordered through Proper Cloth so I am limited in my adjustable measurements to the below measurements.

- Waist width 17.4
- Hip width 21.5
- Thigh width 13.7
- Knee width 10.2
- Leg opening 7.8
- Front rise 10.4
- Back rise 16.2
- Inseam length 29

 

[Despos]

The area below the seat is an issue with the pattern used. Measurements won't correct it.
Would make these adjustments.
Add 1" to hip measure.
Let out/add 1" at the crotch
Adjust for high left hip. That's why the left crease turns out and doesn't fall centered on your foot.

 

[eguk]

Hi - Can anyone educate me on why the skirt(?) of this MTM jacket flares out at the bottom, to the sides of my hips, and if/how it can be fixed?

I don't feel like the waist is overly tight but perhaps my hips are too wide for this much waist taper? (Although I'm sure I've seen examples of jackets that are very shaped at the waist but the skirt still falls more vertically against the hips - which is what I'd like ideally).

Is it a case of taking in the side seam, right where the vent starts? Would this effectively change the angle at which the skirt falls (needs to be more vertical as opposed to diagonal in my view)?

Appreciate any input you guys have. (p.s. apologies for the wrinkles, it's a 100% linen jacket)

View attachment 2008983

View attachment 2008985

View attachment 2008987

View attachment 2008991
View attachment 2008993

Update - I happened to be browsing in a tailoring store this morning (wearing the jacket in question) and got chatting with a member of staff. I mentioned that I wasn't happy with the flaring and he told me the issue is with the balance. He suggested that if I was to pull the front of the jacket upwards (less front balance?) that would bring the skirt in closer to my body. However, when I tried this later on, to my eye, it didn't seem to make much difference to the flaring.

Can anyone verify if the issue is likely to be more balance related, or waist/hip-width related, or something else entirely?

 

[joorinainen]

Update - I happened to be browsing in a tailoring store this morning (wearing the jacket in question) and got chatting with a member of staff. I mentioned that I wasn't happy with the flaring and he told me the issue is with the balance. He suggested that if I was to pull the front of the jacket upwards (less front balance?) that would bring the skirt in closer to my body. However, when I tried this later on, to my eye, it didn't seem to make much difference to the flaring.

Can anyone verify if the issue is likely to be more balance related, or waist/hip-width related, or something else entirely?

Hip measurement is too wide for you. I don't know if you can do alteration only to hip section of the jacket without altering the waist.

 

[Despos]

Update - I happened to be browsing in a tailoring store this morning (wearing the jacket in question) and got chatting with a member of staff. I mentioned that I wasn't happy with the flaring and he told me the issue is with the balance. He suggested that if I was to pull the front of the jacket upwards (less front balance?) that would bring the skirt in closer to my body. However, when I tried this later on, to my eye, it didn't seem to make much difference to the flaring.

Can anyone verify if the issue is likely to be more balance related, or waist/hip-width related, or something else entirely?

Not a balance issue causing this so changing the balance doesn’t correct it. If you did, would create other issues as a side effect.
How bothersome is this to you?
Under the lower patch pocket is the seam joining the side body to the front panel. Jacket can be reduced here to reduce the flaring. Rear half of the patch pocket needs to be opened to do this. Bit harder to do because of the lining limiting access but not really that difficult to do. Harder for you to find someone to do the adjustment this way.

 

[eguk]

Thanks @Despos @joorinainen , appreciate the feedback.

It bothers me less on this jacket since it's more on the casual side and linen (creases do wonders for masking imperfections). However, it's a problem I tend to run into on most RTW jackets and on a more formal jacket, this bothers me.

I'll bear hip width in mind in future though, suspect it will help when buying MTM.

I presume that taking the side seam in (where the vent starts) won't have the same effect as the seam you mentioned (behind the pocket)?

 

[whorishconsumer]

I recently purchased a double breasted suit and had been noticing some odd rippling around the button position. My tailor pointed out that the outline of the jacket canvas is visible through, and stiffer than, the suiting material, thus causing the lines.

My question is: is this common?

 

[joorinainen]

Thanks @Despos @joorinainen , appreciate the feedback.

It bothers me less on this jacket since it's more on the casual side and linen (creases do wonders for masking imperfections). However, it's a problem I tend to run into on most RTW jackets and on a more formal jacket, this bothers me.

I'll bear hip width in mind in future though, suspect it will help when buying MTM.

I presume that taking the side seam in (where the vent starts) won't have the same effect as the seam you mentioned (behind the pocket)?

Is your jacket buttoned up when you took that picture from the back? I can see that the jacket fits you really well from the shoulders, chest and waist and the back looks clean. If that were a suitsupply(program that im familiar with) jacket and i would do my next custom made order i would adjust only -0,5cm from the hip measurement in search for the perfect fit.

 

[eguk]

Is your jacket buttoned up when you took that picture from the back? I can see that the jacket fits you really well from the shoulders, chest and waist and the back looks clean. If that were a suitsupply(program that im familiar with) jacket and i would do my next custom made order i would adjust only -0,5cm from the hip measurement in search for the perfect fit.

I think the jacket was buttoned, although I can't remember to be honest 😄

It happens to be a suitsupply mtm jacket (had it done in-store but they didn't adjust the hip measurement), so I'll take your advice and reduce it on my next order.

Appreciate the help!

 

[joorinainen]

I think the jacket was buttoned, although I can't remember to be honest 😄

It happens to be a suitsupply mtm jacket (had it done in-store but they didn't adjust the hip measurement), so I'll take your advice and reduce it on my next order.

Appreciate the help!

Keep in mind that if you change the hip measurement -0.5cm it minimally makes also the waist smaller.

 

[Despos]

Keep in mind that if you change the hip measurement -0.5cm it minimally makes also the waist smaller.

It doesn't effect the jacket waist. Reducing the hip measure will not effect the skirt enough to change what's going on here since the side vent is open. You will see the back panel and side body open more than before.
The cause for the flared skirt is in the pattern and more related to how cooked or straight the neck point is. This is one adjustment I don't know how to explain clearly/easily and is irrelevant if the jacket is made.

 

[eguk]

It doesn't effect the jacket waist. Reducing the hip measure will not effect the skirt enough to change what's going on here since the side vent is open. You will see the back panel and side body open more than before.
The cause for the flared skirt is in the pattern and more related to how cooked or straight the neck point is. This is one adjustment I don't know how to explain clearly/easily and is irrelevant if the jacket is made.

I must admit I've gone down a real rabbit hole with this..

Perusing the suitsupply thread, I've seen many a mention of this "skirting" issue. Many posters (albeit not tailors as far as I can tell) mostly just seem to say that this effect is made worse by a shorter jacket.

I also noticed that the suitsupply MTM tool has an option for "reducing" the skirt, although unfortunately they don't explain exactly how this is done. I would love to know if anyone has any experience with this.

(the adjustment is separate to hip & waist adjustments).

Apologies for making this into a bit of a suitsupply-centric post, that wasn't my intention at the outset of this exercise!

 

[ajay199127]

Hi everyone, can you please advise on the adjustments needed for the pleat in addition to having a cleaner crotch?

Fabric: 3 PLY Minnis Fresco 14oz

Self-evaluation: Increase thigh, hip, knee and hem by 0.25"