The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Mr_natural78]

My last suit was also originally made for the same John R. and was purchased from the same ebay seller as the oxxford. This suit did not have a waist measurement in the listing and I assumed incorrectly that it would be the same as the oxxford. It feels good in the chest but is obviously to small in the waist. This is a tom james royal classic with holland and sherry fabric and surgeons cuffs. If I were to have the waist let out, what seems would be used and how much fabric should I feel for in these seems to know if it is doable? This suit went to the previous tailor and the waist was supposed to have been let out. Again my wife and I can tell no difference and aren't confident he was even doing anything with the jackets. He did shorten the trousers.

 

[EddieK]

Ok. I originally started a new thread yesterday and then saw this one. My first pictures were horrible and ill proportioned. I have four suits that I would love to get some feedback on. I am not someone who has any experience wearing suits. I've bought one new suit in my life and it was from JC Penny about 20 years ago. I am not in a place in life that I need/want to wear suits. My business is doing well and want/need to make good first impressions on potential investors and the local and state governments when filing for permits. I started by doing some reading on proper suit fit and this site came up a lot. I thrifted a couple of suits that I thought fit well and then used those to take flat measurements and make adjustments to my fit were and I then purchased nice good quality suits that I thought would fit pretty close from the get go.

The first is an old hickey freeman that was one of my first thrifts. This has been to a local tailor to have the waist slimmed on the jacket but my wife and I can tell no difference in fit from before he had it. The trousers have had nothing done. We aren't convinced that this guy did some of the things he said he was doing. I am now searching for a new tailor and I would love some feedback on what things to call to the tailors attention. I have been referred to a tailor by one of the tailors who frequently gives input in this thread. The new tailor is an hour from me and does bespoke suitting so I feel much more confident about getting these suits dialed in once I am able to take them there.

I'm not an expert but, I wanted to say that this suit looks almost like it's bespoke. The lines are so clean...I'm jealous..
The other suits below looks good too except for the arms, (as seen as the back). The very last suit is terrible, especially on the torso, back and arms.

 

[Mr_natural78]

Which suit are you referring to that you like? The first light grey glen check hickey freeman? Thank you for you're input! Happy Easter!

I'm not an expert but, I wanted to say that this suit looks almost like it's bespoke. The lines are so clean...I'm jealous..
The other suits below looks good too except for the arms, (as seen as the back). The very last suit is terrible, especially on the torso, back and arms.

 

[AwfullyNiceGuy]

@Mr_natural78

... I am not someone who has any experience wearing suits. I've bought one new suit in my life and it was from JC Penny about 20 years ago. I am not in a place in life that I need/want to wear suits. My business is doing well and ...

Assuming this was supposed to say 'now', here goes.

I have no experience as a tailor, so I will provide some (unsolicited) comments on stylistic elements of the suits. These are personal opinions that I developed as a long time lurker on these forums (and elsewhere) and in no way qualified.
1. "The old Hickey Freeman" (HF) and the Samuelsohn (SS) Gabe have the more flattering buttoning points. Not that the Oxxford and the Tom James are not "wrong", but the lower buttoning point of the HF and SS looks more balanced on you, whereas the the two last suits create a middle segment between the buttoning point and the trouser lining (even if you let out the tom James).
2. You look to have a fairly "square" torso and the tapering on the HF suit trousers make your legs seem disproportionately slim to your torso. In comparison the width of the SS trousers look much better to my eye.
3. I know this is not really the point of your post and that you may just have put on a tie to finish off the outfit, but if your other ties are similar - try something slightly wider and maybe even with some subtle texture or pattern.

 

[tobiasfunke19]

Hi

I wanted the forum’s advice on something that I have noticed on my two dress trousers that have cuffs. The fabric gets bunches up in one of the corners of the folds. I only saw it when putting them away today, they’re both super 130+ wool. What causes this and is there a way to rectify it? Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

 

[Mr_natural78]

@Mr_natural78

Assuming this was supposed to say 'now', here goes.

I have no experience as a tailor, so I will provide some (unsolicited) comments on stylistic elements of the suits. These are personal opinions that I developed as a long time lurker on these forums (and elsewhere) and in no way qualified.
1. "The old Hickey Freeman" (HF) and the Samuelsohn (SS) Gabe have the more flattering buttoning points. Not that the Oxxford and the Tom James are not "wrong", but the lower buttoning point of the HF and SS looks more balanced on you, whereas the the two last suits create a middle segment between the buttoning point and the trouser lining (even if you let out the tom James).
2. You look to have a fairly "square" torso and the tapering on the HF suit trousers make your legs seem disproportionately slim to your torso. In comparison the width of the SS trousers look much better to my eye.
3. I know this is not really the point of your post and that you may just have put on a tie to finish off the outfit, but if your other ties are similar - try something slightly wider and maybe even with some subtle texture or pattern.

Any input is appreciated. Yes, that should have said now and not, not. I agree about the tapering on the trouser legs of the samuelsohn vs hickey freeman, or lack of in regards to the hf. I think it is pretty much straight cut with no taper. These trouser have a pretty high rise on them as well, but they are flat front. I don't much care for pleats. I also see what you mean about the lower button stance of the ss and hf. I never noticed before, but now that you point it out I agree. As for the tie, it is a grenadine-ish texture. I have other ties as well but just kept the same shirt and tie for all suits to make it easier. This is actually the only solid tie that I have, though I think my tastes are beginning to lean more towards the simpler side as far as patterns and color. Again, thanks for your input! Happy Easter!

 

[Egdon Heath]

Hi

I wanted the forum’s advice on something that I have noticed on my two dress trousers that have cuffs. The fabric gets bunches up in one of the corners of the folds. I only saw it when putting them away today, they’re both super 130+ wool. What causes this and is there a way to rectify it? Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

Pants taper. Cloth at legs' end is narrower than where the top of the cuff falls, which is c. four-inches up by the time you fold it and create a turn-under. So you are putting narrow cloth over fuller cloth, and the fuller (top) part hangs out over the narrow part. Little you can due to fix this, happens more often than not. Better pants often stop the taper around 28" down, then go straight. This prevents the over-hang you're experiencing.

 

[EddieK]

Which suit are you referring to that you like? The first light grey glen check hickey freeman? Thank you for you're input! Happy Easter!

Yes the freeman one is the best. 2nd place is Samuelsohn. I'm talking purely fit by the way

 

[Despos]

Hi

I wanted the forum’s advice on something that I have noticed on my two dress trousers that have cuffs. The fabric gets bunches up in one of the corners of the folds. I only saw it when putting them away today, they’re both super 130+ wool. What causes this and is there a way to rectify it? Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

@tobiasfunke19
Trouser leg is wider at the knee and tapers to the hem. Like this V.
The point of taper at the top of the cuff is wider than the circumference of the cuff.
The leg can be tapered to accommodate this. If the width of the top edge of the cuff is 9", the leg is tapered to 9" or even a touch less at that point.
It's pretty common for tailors to overlook this when making cuffs. It adds considerably to the amount of work and time it takes to make cuffs. Essentially you are adding a tapering of the leg while making cuffs but tailors have a hard time charging more for the extra time it takes. Plus, most alteration shops are high volume, quick turn around and don't want to do the extra work. I'm suspect this person who made these cuffs is in this camp. They machine tacked the cuff in the seam and did a pretty bad job of that. It's a shortcut taken and most people never notice but most tailors would not do that. It takes a small bit more time to do by hand but it slows things down.
Disregard Mr. Heaths comment that there isn't much that can be done at this point.
It's not a very difficult thing to do, doesn't require any special skill set.

 

[compuccesory]

My last suit was also originally made for the same John R. and was purchased from the same ebay seller as the oxxford. This suit did not have a waist measurement in the listing and I assumed incorrectly that it would be the same as the oxxford. It feels good in the chest but is obviously to small in the waist. This is a tom james royal classic with holland and sherry fabric and surgeons cuffs. If I were to have the waist let out, what seems would be used and how much fabric should I feel for in these seems to know if it is doable? This suit went to the previous tailor and the waist was supposed to have been let out. Again my wife and I can tell no difference and aren't confident he was even doing anything with the jackets. He did shorten the trousers.

They're pretty decent for used/thrift finds, I have a feeling that the first 2 have been shortened after the fact, because the placement of the pockets and buttoning point seem too low for it to have come from the factory like that. Compare it to the third suit, which looks like it has better proportions but is too long for you.

 

[Egdon Heath]

Disregard Mr. Heaths comment that there isn't much that can be done at this point.
It's not a very difficult thing to do, doesn't require any special skill set.

What exactly are you suggesting here, that the existing cuff be let down, the pants turned inside out, pressed, measured and marked re a new taper from the knee down and re-sewn ending just short of where the top of the cuff will fall, ripping out the old seam and pressing the new allowance flat, the circumferance of the pant at cuff-top now being equal to the circumferance at the very end rather than wider, thus eliminating fabric over-hang above the cuff, then pulling the leg inside in and pressing in a new crease (if the pant has not been treated in such a way that the old crease is indelible)? Times two. I would say that's a helluva a lot of work. The suggestion to the OP about not much could be done took into account what was just described, work plus dollars plus few folks even noticing this discrepancy. "So live with it" was expressed more politely as "Not much could be done".

 

[Despos]

What exactly are you suggesting here, that the existing cuff be let down, the pants turned inside out, pressed, measured and marked re a new taper from the knee down and re-sewn ending just short of where the top of the cuff will fall, ripping out the old seam and pressing the new allowance flat, the circumferance of the pant at cuff-top now being equal to the circumferance at the very end rather than wider, thus eliminating fabric over-hang above the cuff, then pulling the leg inside in and pressing in a new crease (if the pant has not been treated in such a way that the old crease is indelible)? Times two. I would say that's a helluva a lot of work. The suggestion to the OP about not much could be done took into account what was just described, work plus dollars plus few folks even noticing this discrepancy. "So live with it" was expressed more politely as "Not much could be done".

Yes, I’m suggesting that and it is not as big of a deal to do as you say.

 

[Egdon Heath]

Yes, I’m suggesting that and it is not as big of a deal to do as you say.

I am not a tailor to anyone but myself and so I only know what I can do for me, by me. And that's a **** load of work. But I am glad, sincerely now, that others don't find it so. There's a sign outside my imaginary tailor shop that says "I am so slow I don't think you want to do business here."

 

[Despos]

I am not a tailor to anyone but myself and so I only know what I can do for me, by me. And that's a **** load of work. But I am glad, sincerely now, that others don't find it so. There's a sign outside my imaginary tailor shop that says "I am so slow I don't think you want to do business here."

Thank you for confirming what I expected. Have you ever made a complete trouser? The perception of how much work required is filtered by how much experience you have. If you make trousers everyday for years, doing this alteration is trivial.
Just thought of an example. Have you seen the cooking show “Chopped” ? They have 20 minutes to make a dish. That’s enough time for me to peel an onion and chop a carrot. They manage to make sometimes complex dishes with a sauce or garnish. It’s their experience.

 

[Egdon Heath]

Thank you for confirming what I expected. Have you ever made a complete trouser? The perception of how much work required is filtered by how much experience you have. If you make trousers everyday for years, doing this alteration is trivial.
Just thought of an example. Have you seen the cooking show “Chopped” ? They have 20 minutes to make a dish. That’s enough time for me to peel an onion and chop a carrot. They manage to make sometimes complex dishes with a sauce or garnish. It’s their experience.

No I haven't made a pair of trousers from scratch, having no desire to do that, sorta like an auto repair guy has no desire to build a car from scratch, so scratch ability is not my criterion here. We were discussing the eradication of pant bulge above the cuff, I went first and you followed, basically repeating what I'd said, except that you think it's a piece of cake and I don't, which apparently makes me ripe for a pile of snide. Whatever. So long, thread. It's all yours.