The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

I'm thinking of buying this coat from Brooks Brothers. However, I'm not a fan of hidden button plackets. Would it be easy to put in button holes in the front?

View attachment 1575298

BrooksStorm® Westbury Cashmere Overcoat

Brooks Brothers

www.brooksbrothers.com

Depends how far the tailor goes in changing this. Fly fronts have a third layer between the coat front and the facing. This is an added layer that has the buttonholes. Some one could leave the layer in tact and sew the front edge closed. Make new buttonholes but in a different spot so they don't overlap the existing buttonholes. Easiest method.
You could ask to have the middle layer removed and have the front edge sewn closed and new buttonholes made. This would make the coat cleaner and would be in line with the original way to make the coat. This is more involved.

 

[Despos]

Hello all,

I recently tried on this corduroy jacket which I am considering buying. I think it fits well - though I have doubts about the shoulders.

I've heard of having an 'extended shoulder', which is the effect this seems to have here, but are they just too wide?

If so, is it something a tailor can alter easily/cheaply?

I may be overreacting and it's fine as it is.

Any thoughts or advice would be most welcome.

Shoulders look fine. If they were more narrow it would make your upper body look more narrow and cylindrical. Corduroy is tough to work on and it wouldn't be worth the effort or cost. If it bothers you enough that you don't like wearing it, don't buy it.

 

[Despos]

Where can I buy a Perkins device?

Don't think they are currently being made so you have to be lucky and find someone who would sell you theirs. Maybe a tailor shop that is closing.

 

[stifler]

Depends how far the tailor goes in changing this. Fly fronts have a third layer between the coat front and the facing. This is an added layer that has the buttonholes. Some one could leave the layer in tact and sew the front edge closed. Make new buttonholes but in a different spot so they don't overlap the existing buttonholes. Easiest method.
You could ask to have the middle layer removed and have the front edge sewn closed and new buttonholes made. This would make the coat cleaner and would be in line with the original way to make the coat. This is more involved.

Thanks. What's the approximate cost for either option?

 

[Despos]

Thanks. What's the approximate cost for either option?

No idea. You have to ask how they would do it and how much they charge.
What I read here, handmade buttonholes run $10-$20 for each buttonhole.
Hard to know how long it takes or how complicated it is to remove the inner layer.
Bit of a risk if the outline of the stitching around the fly front will show after removing the stitches. Depends on the cloth type.
Only the person doing the work can give you a price

 

[nevaeh]

Where can I buy a Perkins device?

Do you mean a device that measures shoulder slope? It seems like a kit containing one is sold here: https://www.tailorsource.com/products/measuring-tools.

Quite pricey, though. Fundamentally, it seems like a level to me; you could get a small digital level—with an angle output—from a local hardware store. Or you can even use your smartphone’s level, if yours has that feature.

 

[breakaway01]

Do you mean a device that measures shoulder slope? It seems like a kit containing one is sold here: https://www.tailorsource.com/products/measuring-tools.

Quite pricey, though. Fundamentally, it seems like a level to me; you could get a small digital level—with an angle output—from a local hardware store. Or you can even use your smartphone’s level, if yours has that feature.

You’re just basically guessing here. There is more than a shoulder incline device. And what makes you think that the readout is in degrees (hint: it is not)

 

[bdavro23]

Do you mean a device that measures shoulder slope? It seems like a kit containing one is sold here: https://www.tailorsource.com/products/measuring-tools.

Quite pricey, though. Fundamentally, it seems like a level to me; you could get a small digital level—with an angle output—from a local hardware store. Or you can even use your smartphone’s level, if yours has that feature.

This is true, but those measurements need to then be associated to something. Everything regarding measurements has to be viewed within the context of the pattern. What are you trying to achieve by using a level? If its to determine the slope of the shoulder, you will have to work with the pattern maker to relate the measurements to the pattern. Otherwise its just an abstract exercise.

 

[Despos]

Gave up using the shoulder device. Once you have the data I couldn’t find two people who use it the same way. Even a difference in opinion of where to place it on the shoulder to take a reading. Nobody has ever explained to me how to apply the info to a pattern and I’ve asked a lot of tailors and pattern makers.
Have used it on my own shoulders and it gives me a reading of a low left shoulder. My right shoulder is low. That’s why I don’t trust using it.

 

[Inmystyle]

Anyone have any recommendations for tailors in nyc who can do same day alterations ?

 

[jdhoop]

Hi there!

I'd appreciate any input on the fit of these cotton trousers I recently bought. I had them hemmed and the waist taken in (alterations I'm happy with), but I'm wondering if there's excess fabric in the fly area. If so what would be the alteration to ask about? Or is the wrinkling just the nature of lightweight cotton? (This photo was taken immediately after ironing.)

These are a bit more of a fuller cut than I'm used to, which I'm fine with. Just wondering if anything stands out from the photo as needing adjustment, or if I'm just overthinking.

View attachment 1579215

 

[Aly.B]

Anyone have any recommendations for tailors in nyc who can do same day alterations ?

I think most people here suggest Sam Wazin in NYC.

 

[_dm_so_]

Hi! Could you please comment on the fit of these trousers? I know about my pelvic tilt (right hip is lower) and I think the hips should be roomier so that the pleats don't pucker.

Also It seems to me that the length of front pressed creases is a bit too long - at the end of the crotch the pleats begin to wrinkle horisontally (when I lean back a bit the crease is quite straight)
I've tried to draw what I mean

(Sorry for messy room...)

 

[BB_Adept]

Dear guys,

since you helped me a lot with my ordering process from Collaro i hope i will find help again.
I am thinking about ordering an MTO sports coat from Lopez Aragon.
However, i am overwhelmed by the mere choices of fabrics with no pictures directly combined with the fabric.

I am thinking about something casual like their wool harris fabric but i am not sure what it will look like in the end.

Also i am not sure about the sizing, i have never really measured myself for clothes and i do not have a perfectly fitting sports coat at hand. I have one that is ok but not perfect, once again im no sure what could be improved (well i am, but i cannot put it in numbers and i am sure i am missing a couple of points).

Any suggestions?

 

[vim147]

I have a pair of suit trousers (50% polyester/50% wool) that i need to increase the waist by an inch.
Will the original stitch holes be visible on the seat area if i increase the waist ?