The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]



I found this gray/light gray suit in my closet. This was apparently a suit for high school, and after losing some weight this past summer, I tried this on for the hell of it (tags are still included and all).

I know 3-buttons and pleats are long gone, but I'm wondering what you guys think of it so I can use the suggestions as reference for a new suit. I'm on that broke college student budget and I'm eyeing a Uniqlo suit (<$200) for interviews, career fairs, etc.

Let me know what you think. I'm open to getting criticized. After all, this was just a suit I tried on 10 minutes ago and have never worn. lol

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Thanks!

PS - There are no vents on the back.

You will be better off with a new suit. This is not a good aesthetic for someone in college. Has a very dated look, especially the lapels and everything is the wrong size for you. You will get a better suit for the price you would pay to alter this.

 

[Despos]



So this is where you could educate me, Despos. My tailor took it in in the side seams on the back. When I argued with him for an hour to take it in even more, I believe he took it from the center seam, and he told me that in order to keep the vent from flaring, he would "curve the vent so it won't look like it's flying out." So my understanding is, you can take the jacket's waist in from those two back seams and even the back center seam, but the front is untouched—hence what looks boxy in the front. Is that just a fact of life and therefore the solution is just to get something that fits more cleanly in the front? In other words, are there no alterations I could possibly make to this jacket to shape it a little more in the front? I feel like that's a dumb question, but I guess it's worth asking the expert

Could be more specific if could see a before the alteration picture.
If this suit is canvassed, the canvass is pushing outward on the front chest just below the armholes. It would help if this could be improved and then take in the front part on the seam that runs from the armhole down to the pocket. This would give the front parts some shape.

Regarding the alterations you had done. If you had the waist reduced 1 1/2" on each side, I would have opened the side seams and taken 1" in at the waist on the front part and only 1/2" from the back part. This would give more expression to the jacket and create more definition to the waist. Would not take in the center back. When he did that it made the jacket fit closer to the body but didn't create more shape.

I suggest trying different styles of jackets so you can see/learn how different silhouettes work with your body type. The cut of this jacket is somewhat generic and is not complimenting your build.

Question for you. In the third picture a basket (?) appears on the wall that was not in the first two shots. Why & where did that come from?

 

[Despos]



Hi all, I am currently trying to get a morning coat at Brooks Brothers during their Friend and Family sale. But I run into this slight problem in terms of fit; the tail does not close properly. It seems to be a balance problem. What are my options?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

The back is long. The way to correct this is to remove the sleeves, open the shoulder and shorten the back from the top of the jacket, recutting the shoulder line. Pin the back up across the back at the shoulder blades until the vent falls straight to determine how much to adjust the back part. If you do this, insist on a fitting before they cut off the extra cloth on the shoulders and before they finish the work.

 

[lesamourai]

Perfect thread. Was going to get this tailored tomorrow. I apologize in advanced for the crappy pictures. Bad lighting and (dirty) mirror shots don't make for ideal reference photos but I tried not to cause my suit to be too uneven. I think someone took my tripod. Does the jacket seem long or is that simply my inexperience. I know I need to get the pants hemmed though, it's the suit alterations that I'm not sure about. (Oh, also, these are pretty cheap suits (H&M) that I needed quickly for a job. Eventually I'll grab a nice one (MTM possibly) but I didn't feel like spending a bunch on suits that I don't plan on needed very much for future use.)

Thanks for any suggestions.

Spoiler

 

[Despos]



Perfect thread. Was going to get this tailored tomorrow. I apologize in advanced for the crappy pictures. Bad lighting and (dirty) mirror shots don't make for ideal reference photos but I tried not to cause my suit to be too uneven. I think someone took my tripod. Does the jacket seem long or is that simply my inexperience. I know I need to get the pants hemmed though, it's the suit alterations that I'm not sure about. (Oh, also, these are pretty cheap suits (H&M) that I needed quickly for a job. Eventually I'll grab a nice one (MTM possibly) but I didn't feel like spending a bunch on suits that I don't plan on needed very much for future use.)

Thanks for any suggestions.

Spoiler

Just get the sleeve length, and trouser length right and you'll be fine.

 

[gettoasty]

Yes more and more I am realizing my taper makes me look like I have clown feet

Going to have the pants hemmed and waist suppressed. Thanks,

 

[chogall]

The back is long. The way to correct this is to remove the sleeves, open the shoulder and shorten the back from the top of the jacket, recutting the shoulder line. Pin the back up across the back at the shoulder blades until the vent falls straight to determine how much to adjust the back part. If you do this, insist on a fitting before they cut off the extra cloth on the shoulders and before they finish the work.

Sound's like a major operation. Not sure if the in-house BB tailor is willing to do the modification.

Thank you very much for the advice!

 

[Intern100]

I recognize that the pant legs are pretty short in comparism to the past (5-10 years ago).

Is this the newest style in business dresses ?

 

[dks202]



I know 3-buttons and pleats are long gone....

I didn't know they ever left.....

 

[emptym]

These are probably my best-fitting pants. But do you have any thoughts on room for improvement (other than the missing belt loops...)? Despos and others have discussed what causes the U-shaped wrinkles in the back, but I can't remember the cause. they're minor here, but I would love a refresher.

Thanks guys!

 

[mossrockss]

Thanks for your insight. I'm not exactly sure what I'll do with this info…

I have to laugh at your question. That's our outgoing mail pouch next to our front door in our flat. My wife took those photos and we had taken a bunch of stuff out of the frame after the first two pics, then I made her take the third but had started putting stuff back up. She said, "what about the mail pouch?" I said, "nobody will notice."

 

[Despos]



Thanks for your insight. I'm not exactly sure what I'll do with this info…

I have to laugh at your question. That's our outgoing mail pouch next to our front door in our flat. My wife took those photos and we had taken a bunch of stuff out of the frame after the first two pics, then I made her take the third but had started putting stuff back up. She said, "what about the mail pouch?" I said, "nobody will notice."

Good one, seems people notice what you don't expect they will and miss the stuff you want them to see.

Point of my explanation is to show there is more than one way to take in the waist/sides of a jacket and each will have it's own visual effect as a result. What I didn't know was if you went back to the tailor to have more taken in because you thought the jacket was too loose and wanted a closer fit or you wanted the waist to look more suppressed. Maybe this will help you communicate with your tailor what you want to achieve.

 

[a tailor]



Yes more and more I am realizing my taper makes me look like I have clown feet

Going to have the pants hemmed and waist suppressed. Thanks,

yes you should have at least a bottom circumference of 17"
when having the tailor do the fitting. wear your belt and cinch it as snug as you usually wear.
move the excess cloth to the back, so that the tailor can see how much excess cloth must be removed.
take a look at the trouser photo. see how much higher and wider the right hip is, thats because of the low right shoulder.
that is causing the right vent to gap.
that also means that the right inseam will be longer than the left.

 

[Despos]



These are probably my best-fitting pants. But do you have any thoughts on room for improvement (other than the missing belt loops...)? Despos and others have discussed what causes the U-shaped wrinkles in the back, but I can't remember the cause. they're minor here, but I would love a refresher.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Thanks guys!

Trousers look good. Not quite to my standards but close. I think this pair would do well with side straps and not loops because I don't like wearing belts with light colored trousers. Just a dark horizontal line around your waist. The slight wrinkling on the back part is so slight it is not worth mentioning.
I can't figure why there is a second button beyond the point of the extension on the waistband. It's not like you would use it in any way. Would remove it.
Do you think you will use the two front pockets in the waistband seam for anything?

 

[gettoasty]



yes you should have at least a bottom circumference of 17"
when having the tailor do the fitting. wear your belt and cinch it as snug as you usually wear.
move the excess cloth to the back, so that the tailor can see how much excess cloth must be removed.
take a look at the trouser photo. see how much higher and wider the right hip is, thats because of the low right shoulder.
that is causing the right vent to gap.
that also means that the right inseam will be longer than the left.

thanks for pointing that out! will be going in tomorrow for the 2nd time now and will let them know this.

just quick question, but suit pants should be worn higher at the waist compared to jeans at the hip? i have a low belly button so i would rather not cover it with my pants.