The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

You had much of the suit adjusted for a person who doesn't need much alteration! According to the salesman, right?


RTW will not be perfect unless your body, posture and proportion, is perfect. The trouser needs the waistband removed and reattached working in fullness over your hips and lowering and straightening the back part. A very intensive task on a finished trouser that will throw off the rear pocket position.


You have a very low right shoulder, that's why the right front hangs lower than the left in the picture with the front unbuttoned. Back blades are a little sloppy.

I just went in for round 3 on Saturday. I'll post pictures of the result. Work to be done includes:

Raising the waistband, additional leg tapering, shortening the length a tiny bit, reshaping the shoulders, fixing the roll on the back by doing some collar work, doing something to the shoulder to smooth it out, and slimming the sleeves.

If it doesn't look perfect this time, I may have to raise hell.

Not sure how tapering the trouser will improve anything.
Biggest issue is you have a very prominent left shoulder blade. To reach sartorial nirvana may require more than even MTM can provide. MTM suit is cut for you and individualized to a certain degree. The degree to which adjustments are made depends on the maker. After that it is run thru the factory as any other suit. The execution of adjustments is brought to fruition and highly dependent on skilled sewing.

 

[Matvei27]

Probably but you haven't posted a picture and my response is a general one rather than a specific. Generally letting out the center back only results in creating a mess. Letting out both sides at the side body makes the armhole wider and releases the back enough to create more motion.

That makes sense because it feels like it is tugging more at the armholes than on the back itself.
But, what am I going to do about the double vent if I let out the side seams? Won't the tailor have to totally redo the double vent?

 

[Despos]

Probably but you haven't posted a picture and my response is a general one rather than a specific. Generally letting out the center back only results in creating a mess. Letting out both sides at the side body makes the armhole wider and releases the back enough to create more motion.

That makes sense because it feels like it is tugging more at the armholes than on the back itself.
I am currently in a small town with not a lot of options. Should I go to the same person and tell them what I want them to do, or should I wait until I can bring it to a better place in the city? How difficult is letting out the two sides?

Letting out the sides is simple. Opening the armholes to get to the seams you need to work on and finishing them properly adds triple the time, sometimes more or a little less depending on how sophisticated or how simple the construction is. If you have side vents, that creates more work which requires more time to finish. If the person doing the work is proficient at making garments this work is run of the mill stuff. If they only know to do alterations or only have experience on women's clothes it becomes quite a task. The latter may not be familiar with the sewing techniques involved or required. If it is a simple jacket, don't worry about it.

 

[Matvei27]

Letting out the sides is simple. Opening the armholes to get to the seams you need to work on and finishing them properly adds triple the time, sometimes more or a little less depending on how sophisticated or how simple the construction is. If you have side vents, that creates more work which requires more time to finish. If the person doing the work is proficient at making garments this work is run of the mill stuff. If they only know to do alterations or only have experience on women's clothes it becomes quite a task. The latter may not be familiar with the sewing techniques involved or required. If it is a simple jacket, don't worry about it.

Fully lined and double vented. I'll take it to the city.

 

[Terpo]

The rise looks too high/long. You have a high right hip that causes pulling on the right out seam. Would let out the crotch 1/2" to 3/4". The way the trouser legs drape is sloppy.

Thanks for the feedback! As I am quite tall and slim I wanted the trousers to sit in my natural waist, hence the high rise. Will have the crotch let out. Is the length fine or a bit too long?

 

[oolongtea]

Hey resident tailors,

I was hoping to get your assessment as to the 2 shirts attached, in particular:
- which one fits best between the two for future MTM orders (going to send one to Luxire to copy and adjust);
- based on which one fits best, how I can improve fit (e.g. adjusting more for forward shoulders, which is fairly evident in this case).

Thanks in advance!

Untucked:

 

[Rudals]

Hello! First time posting to this thread. I have been recommended to seek out the great Despos over on the WAYWRN thread.
Questions: What needs to be done on this suit?
The shoulders look narrow and I wonder if the suit is not for my body type or if I should do something like add some pads to the shoulders or should I work out a bit (j/k).
Let me know whatever stands out and what needs work. I am bummed out about paying full retail at NM on this suit and just would like to make it right by tweaking some things.
Thank you

 

[Despos]

Not much to tell from this picture, no apparent issues. If you think the shoulder is narrow you want to look for a different silhouette. Adding a pad will add vertical height but not width. You cannot make these shoulders wider. You cannot just add pads unless there is space to accommodate them and you need the pad to fill in that space.

 

[Rudals]

Hmmm...interesting. I am glad that there really isn't that stands out. Thanks for the feedback. Here's another pic just in case. Thanks again.

 

[othertravel]



Hmmm...interesting. I am glad that there really isn't that stands out. Thanks for the feedback. Here's another pic just in case. Thanks again.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Looks fine.

 

[Despos]

Didn't comment about the front button on the first picture but it has to moved. I think they did once because the vertical line of the pattern doesn't line up. It's off from your low shoulder.
Left jacket sleeve is shorter than right. Trouser has ubiquitous long back rise issue, wrinkling under seat phenomenon.

 

[Rudals]

Thank you. I guess the WAYWRN guys are really nitpicking.

 

[Rudals]

Thank you again @Despos

 

[dohare]

Hope someone can answer this-

I recently had the first case of a shirt shrinking after a dry cleaning. About an entire inch in the chest (talking just the front measurement) and a half an inch in the waist. Is there a way to request your cleaning to be done without the possibility of shrinking?

Can I just steam my shirts at home and iron? I mean, as long as I'm not sweating like crazy, it's still clean. Is this reasonable?

Thanks

 

[Rudals]

Your shirt, if made of cotton, isn't dry cleaned but just machine washed and pressed. If it wasn't pre-shrunk (I highly doubt) then it will drink a bit.
I wear an undershirt underneath my dress shirts so I can wear them again. I only steam the back and where the arms bend.
I would not iron it...to many reasons not to iron it.