The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[bdavro23]



To me those are spot on formal loafers.

I use a black J Fitzpatrick Laurelhurst which is very similar with a discrete medallion for black tie and black Crockett and Jones Kemptons (no longer made) with a morning coat.

Morning-dress is an alternative for bdavro that has not been proposed and is equally appropriate.

Our plan is to have a very small ceremony with just family during the day, with a cocktail party to start at 7pm. I have toyed with the idea of doing morning dress, but keep comping back o the same conclusions: 1) I live in the US and no one would understand 2) I would likely never get to wear it again, unless I move bakc to England, which is unlikely and 3) I would be the only person so attired. Also, 4) changing from morning dress to evening wear just seems a little pretentious, even for me

I think I will do suit during the day and tux or dinner jacket at the party. Plans can change though. Maybe I'll wear shorts

 

[Master Squirrel]

Did an early semi-formal garden party. Wore the ivory dinner jacket topped off with a boater -- before Memorial Day and north of the 45th parallel.

Rocked it.

 

[TimelesStyle]



Plans can change though. Maybe I'll wear shorts

I would. Can't imagine that going commando in a tuxedo would be fun. Though in that case I'd suggest the silk variety

 

[bdavro23]

Any thoughts on a silk dinner jacket? I think it could look good in black, navy or cream. Maybe from Dupioni? I have done a few image searches and cant seem to find a great example. Perhaps it doesnt exist...

 

[culverwood]

It exists and was not uncommon in the 60's. My own DJ is silk Dupioni in black.

 

[bdavro23]

It exists and was not uncommon in the 60's. My own DJ is silk Dupioni in black.

I meant perhaps a good example doesnt exist, not that silk DJs dont exist. care to share a picture of yours?

 

[culverwood]

As you see in black and my photography it is difficult to distinguish from other fabrics

 

[bdavro23]

Quote:
You're right, it's difficult to see, but it looks like it drapes well. Thanks for posting.

 

[TimelesStyle]



Our plan is to have a very small ceremony with just family during the day, with a cocktail party to start at 7pm. I have toyed with the idea of doing morning dress, but keep comping back o the same conclusions: 1) I live in the US and no one would understand 2) I would likely never get to wear it again, unless I move bakc to England, which is unlikely and 3) I would be the only person so attired. Also, 4) changing from morning dress to evening wear just seems a little pretentious, even for me

I think I will do suit during the day and tux or dinner jacket at the party. Plans can change though. Maybe I'll wear shorts

If looking on a budget, look at some of the shawl collar DJs J Crew has. They have some in interesting dark fabrics that, at the very least, may be of some inspiration.

 

[Tried and True]



Any thoughts on a silk dinner jacket? Maybe from Dupioni? I have done a few image searches and cant seem to find a great example. Perhaps it doesnt exist...

You're right, there seems to be a dearth of photos of DJs in Dupioni on the web. If one were willing to make an effort to hunt down some pics I imagine contacting Brioni would be the best bet. The Dupioni DJ was born at Brioni in the Fifties and has been a staple of their evening wear line ever since. I'm sure that a polite request for photos sent to one of their boutiques would yield a healthy batch of images in short order.

 

[poorsod]

Eidos silk for NMWA

http://nomanwalksalone.tumblr.com/image/113169406276

 

[Tried and True]

Here's one from the archives of Brioni:

1963, Pitti Palace, Florence, Italy — A male model wears a fur trimmed tuxedo designed by Brioni of Rome for a fashion show in Florence’s Pitti Palace. — Image by

Bettmann/Corbis

 

[zeero3]

I'm almost done getting everything for my black tie rig. I ran into a problem and have a few questions. I bought Kent Wang reversible shirt studs. They look awesome and give me the flexibility to wear either onyx or mother of pearl. As soon as I got my TM Lewin tuxedo shirt, I couldn't wait to try it on and see how it looked with the studs. However, the holes for the studs are slightly smaller than usual and the studs are double sided and "fat"--they won't fit. They actually don't even come close to fitting. I took a trip to the alterations tailor to see about enlarging the button holes, but was advised against it. He basically advised the studs, though they look good, would flop forward if the hole was enlarged enough to fit them.

I'm now looking for a cufflink and shirt stud set. However, I'm unsure exactly how different studs work. Screw-back studs sound obvious enough, but does anyone have pictures on the ones with a straight bar in the back and how they work? I want to know which would work best, or work at all, for stud holes that are smaller than usual-sized button holes. I put a link to the Kent Wang studs for information. If only they detached and attached again, they'd be perfect!

http://www.kentwang.com/cuff-links/black-onyx-and-mother-of-pearl-studs.html

Thanks in advance.....

 

[Meurice]

4) changing from morning dress to evening wear just seems a little pretentious, even for me

Why would that be "pretentious", given that you would be wearing MC in the morning and BT in the evening? Just disappear for a mid-day nap and re-emerge BT-clad. Did it many times. Although here in Europe, maybe things are different.

 

[TimelesStyle]



I'm almost done getting everything for my black tie rig. I ran into a problem and have a few questions. I bought Kent Wang reversible shirt studs. They look awesome and give me the flexibility to wear either onyx or mother of pearl. As soon as I got my TM Lewin tuxedo shirt, I couldn't wait to try it on and see how it looked with the studs. However, the holes for the studs are slightly smaller than usual and the studs are double sided and "fat"--they won't fit. They actually don't even come close to fitting. I took a trip to the alterations tailor to see about enlarging the button holes, but was advised against it. He basically advised the studs, though they look good, would flop forward if the hole was enlarged enough to fit them.

I'm now looking for a cufflink and shirt stud set. However, I'm unsure exactly how different studs work. Screw-back studs sound obvious enough, but does anyone have pictures on the ones with a straight bar in the back and how they work? I want to know which would work best, or work at all, for stud holes that are smaller than usual-sized button holes. I put a link to the Kent Wang studs for information. If only they detached and attached again, they'd be perfect!

http://www.kentwang.com/cuff-links/black-onyx-and-mother-of-pearl-studs.html

Thanks in advance.....

Personally, I'd look at different shirts before looking for different studs (if you like the studs). I don't like the ones with the straight bar on the back since they tend to flop forward too. The best choice, if you want that particular shirt, would be ones that have a fixed back but one that is smaller/thinner than the KW set. But again, unless there's something you can't live without on that TML shirt, I'd explore other options for that first. You'll likely have many formal shirts throughout your life but a link/stud set can last forever.