The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Mute]



Question on mixing metals: Given the yellow tones (these are sterling with MOP center and eggshell enamel), could i wear these studs with plain oval yellow gold cufflinks, or better stick to the pair from the set (or plain sterling)?

I personally wouldn't go with the plain cufflinks unless the metal tone is a perfect match. Otherwise, I'd stick to the set.

 

[Glenafton]

I have just purchased a dinner suit. The jacket is white, the trousers are black and the shirt is a pleated white cotton. I would like to wear a waistcoat with this attire but am unsure of what type and colour I should get. Can someone please advise me

 

[TimelesStyle]



I have just purchased a dinner suit.    The jacket is white, the trousers are black and the shirt is a pleated white cotton.   I would like to wear a waistcoat with this attire but am unsure of what type and colour I should get.   Can someone please advise me

Typically one would wear a cummerbund (in black or burgundy, depending on tie choice/event) with a white DJ. The white DJ was intended for use in warmer climates, hence why one might want to avoid the extra layer of a waistcoat.

I also think that a waistcoat looks a little out of place with a pleated shirt, and a black one (which is really the only option here, IMO) just doesn't look quite right with both a white shirt and jacket.

 

[Glenafton]

TimelessStyle,
Thank you for the guidance. I actually live in Australia and it has been known to get quite warm here thus the white jacket.
I needed the outfit for meetings that I attend monthly and sometimes that entails the removal of the jacket.
I do not wear a belt on my trousers as I prefer to use braces (Suspenders) and thought that the waistcoat would cover the braces should I have to remove my jacket on odd occasions. However since that is not to be can I further pick your brain and ask what you would recommend.
Glenafton

 

[TimelesStyle]



TimelessStyle,
                        Thank you for the guidance.   I actually live in Australia and it has been known to get quite warm here thus the white jacket.
I needed the outfit for meetings that I attend monthly and sometimes that entails the removal of the jacket.   
I do not wear a belt on my trousers as I prefer to use braces (Suspenders) and thought that the waistcoat would cover the braces should I have to remove my jacket on odd occasions.   However since that is not to be can I further pick your brain and ask what you would recommend.
Glenafton

Well, I'm a braces guy myself, whether black tie or a regular suit. If the event is formal enough to warrant black tie it may be too formal to go in shirt sleeves, but I'm not sure exactly what kinds of events you're talking about. I actually don't mind people seeing my braces when I remove my suit jacket but tend not to remove my DJ since people will see the back clasp of the cummerbund as well as undershirt sleeve lines.

However, if jacket removal is just part of your lifestyle (I don't judge ) then I'd consider a regular double cuff white shirt with no bib and either a covered placket or loop-back (no holes through the middle) MOP buttons (you can always have a tailor swap these). Additionally, I'd go with white braces, so they blend in a bit more. I'd pair all of this with a black cummerbund.

My final thought is that I would probably prefer an open jacket to walking around in a shirt, undershirt and waistcoat when warm, as those layers fit tighter and will trap more heat. Also, should you sweat beyond the borders of the waistcoat, the jacket hides this far better.

 

[Glenafton]

TimelessStyle,
The removing of my jacket at times is not done for comfort reasons but is part of certain ceremonies that I participate in from time to time. However the cummerbund is probably the way to go as it is only on occasion that my jacket has to be removed and when that occurs I just remove the cummerbund.
My thanks once again for your most generous help.
Glenafton.

 

[Andy57]

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[Ambulance Chaser]

Wore the NMWA/Eidos tuxedo for the first time tonight. It is one bad-ass tuxedo. I almost feel like it is not capable of being appreciated in DC.

 

[Itsuo]



Wore the NMWA/Eidos tuxedo for the first time tonight. It is one bad-ass tuxedo. I almost feel like it is not capable of being appreciated in DC.

Show us some pictures! (And if was open to the public, not at the Kennedy Center, and you're comfortable sharing, let us DC residents know what event.)

 

[TimelesStyle]



TimelessStyle,
                         The removing of my jacket at times is not done for comfort reasons but is part of certain ceremonies that I participate in from time to time.   However the cummerbund is probably the way to go as it is only on occasion that my jacket has to be removed and when that occurs I just remove the cummerbund.
My thanks once again for your most generous help.
Glenafton. 

Ah, got it. I wouldn't even bother with cummerbund removal since it's a "damned if you do, damned if you don't" situation (either folks see the back clasp of the cummerbund or they see the brace attachments and the awkward "studs to buttons" and "bib to smooth" transitions on the shirt).

 

[bdavro23]

I need some ideas for formal wear fabric. I recently became engaged, and as such, I now have an excuse for another dinner jacket. I have a peak lapel black tux, and midnight mohair shawl lapel tux already, so I am wondering what else I can add. This will likely be an October wedding and I live in the midwest, so white/ ivory are probably not a good fit, but I am open to all suggestions.

As my engagement is about a week old, I am just beginning to think about possibilities. Thoughts?

 

[nyarkies]

Something with turn-back cuffs and link button closure?

 

[Tried and True]



Thoughts?

It sounds like you're ready for a double breasted Dupioni silk dinner jacket. Not something generally available OTR so you won't see yourself coming and going no matter how many black tie events you attend. Dupioni is a mid-weight year around cloth that photographs wonderfully. Perfect kit for a groom, IMO.

And congrats on your upcoming nuptials.

 

[culverwood]

Thoughts?

It sounds like you're ready for a double breasted Dupioni silk dinner jacket. Not something generally available OTR so you won't see yourself coming and going no matter how many black tie events you attend. Dupioni is a mid-weight year around cloth that photographs wonderfully. Perfect kit for a groom, IMO.

And congrats on your upcoming nuptials.

If you meet me at a black tie event you will see another!

Joking aside it is a fabric that works well for black tie which Gianni Agnelli thought too.

May I add my congratulations.

 

[TimelesStyle]



I need some ideas for formal wear fabric. I recently became engaged, and as such, I now have an excuse for another dinner jacket. I have a peak lapel black tux, and midnight mohair shawl lapel tux already, so I am wondering what else I can add. This will likely be an October wedding and I live in the midwest, so white/ ivory are probably not a good fit, but I am open to all suggestions.

As my engagement is about a week old, I am just beginning to think about possibilities. Thoughts?

Something with turn-back cuffs and link button closure?

It sounds like you're ready for a double breasted Dupioni silk dinner jacket. Not something generally available OTR so you won't see yourself coming and going no matter how many black tie events you attend. Dupioni is a mid-weight year around cloth that photographs wonderfully. Perfect kit for a groom, IMO.

And congrats on your upcoming nuptials.

A number of interesting suggestions so far.

The link/turn-back option seems a bit inherently less formal, which is fine, if the environment will be on the less formal side of BT. Those details aren't my taste, since they seem overall a bit precious for my taste (and details for the sake of details). But what do I know...

I like T&T's suggestion for a DB DJ, but my question would be about silk and how easily it would get damaged as you are inevitably "hug-raped" throughout the evening. My wedding suit, while not silk, was a more delicate weave and I ended up with some minor pulls around the shoulders and upper back that the tailor had to pull back through/snip after.

My personal suggestion would be for a black wool 4x1 double breasted with a shawl collar. While many here would always opt for grosgrain facings, a shawl is the one where I think satin is the preferable look (probably because it's the entire collar, not just the lapel facings).

If, however, you think you'll be removing your jacket, then I might opt for something single breasted with a waistcoat option.