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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Roycru

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When would one wear a smoking jacket in 2014?

J
Not a picture from 2014, but a picture in the living room on Christmas Eve 2012, before taking off my smoking jacket and putting on my suit jacket to go the the Festival Of Nine Lessons And Carols. I don't wear a suit jacket in the house. It's sometimes cold in the winter, so I wear the smoking jacket in the house until I put my suit jacket on to go out. (Some people have suggested that I might try closing the windows instead when it's cold, but I don't like being somewhere where the windows are closed.)

 

Gianni Cerutti

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1. you can never go wrong with white

2. they're called mess jackets. I summarize them in my site's History section and describe them in detail in the Vintage section

700


I love this elegace
 

BackInTheJox

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Not a picture from 2014, but a picture in the living room on Christmas Eve 2012, before taking off my smoking jacket and putting on my suit jacket to go the the Festival Of Nine Lessons And Carols. I don't wear a suit jacket in the house. It's sometimes cold in the winter, so I wear the smoking jacket in the house until I put my suit jacket on to go out. (Some people have suggested that I might try closing the windows instead when it's cold, but I don't like being somewhere where the windows are closed.)



Nice jacket, but why do you look so absolutely miserable in all your pictures?
 

Cleav

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Not a picture from 2014, but a picture in the living room on Christmas Eve 2012, before taking off my smoking jacket and putting on my suit jacket to go the the Festival Of Nine Lessons And Carols. I don't wear a suit jacket in the house. It's sometimes cold in the winter, so I wear the smoking jacket in the house until I put my suit jacket on to go out. (Some people have suggested that I might try closing the windows instead when it's cold, but I don't like being somewhere where the windows are closed.)
Roy, this is gold
 

Roycru

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haganah

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I never posted these from Autumn. I hardly post here anymore so I don't even know all the new usernames but what the heck.

The tuxedo (peak grosgrain lapels, single button, no vent) was from kiton, shoes (simple patent leather) from tom ford, the waistcoat was a double vested horse-shoe with lapels, the bow was from ercole (in same material as lapel), and the shirt was voile with marcella bib/cuffs/collar. I think the pocket square I got a while back at Venanzi and I had the studs/links from a long time ago.

I wanted to do NSM but didn't have time and had a few issues with ercole so I only used him for the bow tie - you play the hand your dealt in the end. Many thanks to Manton and Eustace Tilly for answering my questions along the way. Wrinkles were from moving, I'll starch the bib of the shirt more heavily next time since that bugs me, and I will never again trust a florist to understand what a small boutonnière is.

1222018

1222019

1222020
 

poorsod

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Next time ask the florist for mini carnations. Alternatively Kent Wang sells mini paper meche flowers that are very nice. Unfortunately, I lost one of mine already. :(

For the bib front, do you have the front tab that buttons to your trousers? That helps pull down the bunching of the bib.
 
Last edited:

haganah

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Next time ask the florist for mini carnations. Alternatively Kent Wang sells mini paper meche flowers that are very nice. Unfortunately, I lost one of mine already. :(

For the bib front, do you have the front tab that buttons to your trousers? That helps pull down the bunching of the bib.


Trust me; I provided a list of flowers with pictures and measurements I found acceptable. He nodded. I got something completely different.

Do you sew in a button into the pants for the tab?
 

poorsod

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Carl (CEGO) made my tux shirt and I asked him to sew in a button on the pants for the tab. We marked the appropriate spot on the pants when I was wearing the shirt and pants.
 

nyarkies

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@haganah Did Luxire give you an explanation why they didn't have **** buttonholes for the studs on their formal shirts? I was considering having one made but hesitated after seeing the weird buttonholes on the marcella bib.
 

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