The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

Received a wedding invite this week that I was surprised to see specified a Black Tie dress code (as opposed to a Black Tie optional).

I'm happy I get an excuse to bust out the rig and am interested to see how many others do the same and what the current state of Black Tie is...

Based on the reports in this thread, you are likely to be a little disappointed.

 

[classicalthunde]

Based on the reports in this thread, you are likely to be a little disappointed.

Oh, most certainly...even I will commit some venial sins like wearing my GMT, black cap toe oxfords (but with a fresh shine) and my vented jacket.

If the over under is at 1 person in "perfect" black tie, I think I would still probably bet the under

 

[Andy57]

Hi all,

I was able to find a vintage tuxedo in excellent condition and it's currently at the tailor. It's a black barathea fabric made of (I assume) wool/mohair and is traditionally styled - shawl lapel, jetted pockets, one button, no vents, no belt loops on the trousers, etc.

I now need to get a shirt, bow tie, and cummerbund. I have two questions for those: First, I want to stay traditional but am drawn to the simpler look of a covered placket shirt. Is that a faux pas? I know I can/should do what I want but would like to have a classic look. On the same note, for the bow tie and cummerbund, should I stick with satin since that's the lapel fabric? Or can I go faille and be OK? I haven't worn a bow tie before, so any advice on sizing compared to the lapel width, etc. would be appreciated, too.

Thanks!

A covered placket is okay and certainly better than a shirt with buttons. Tie and cummerbund should match the lapels of your jacket. Budd, in London, has good cummerbunds and ties. For something a littler more elevated, try Sam Homer, LaBowtique, or Le Noeud Papillon. If you haven't worn a bow tie before don't be intimidated. Tying a bow tie is easy and just takes a bit of practice. Under no circumstances is a pre-tied tie acceptable.

 

[St1X]

Oh, most certainly...even I will commit some venial sins like wearing my GMT, black cap toe oxfords (but with a fresh shine) and my vented jacket.

If the over under is at 1 person in "perfect" black tie, I think I would still probably bet the under

Black whole cuts is the right option, but this day and age even sartorial brands release a captoe patent leather shoes. So a properly shined smooth leather captoe oxford will definitely make the cut.
Also, only snobs will judge you for wearing a vented jacket.

 

[poorsod]

I’m thinking of getting a new tux with a DB vest. Does anyone have pcitures of design ideas for a DB vest?

thanks.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I’m thinking of getting a new tux with a DB vest. Does anyone have pcitures of design ideas for a DB vest?

thanks.

I have a bespoke one from Steed based on one he (Edwin) designed for Voxsartoria which was itself based on a vintage double breasted Anderson & Shepherd white tie waistcoat done for Fred Astaire. Hence Edwin calls it the Astaire, I believe. I’ve photographed and posted it in this thread before, but my photography skills are abysmal.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Here is a pic of my Steed vest. 4x2 DB with self-faced shawl lapels.

View attachment 2035951

 

[poorsod]

Amazing! Thanks!

 

[DorianGreen]

A lovely colour.

 

[rob g]

A lovely colour.

View attachment 2169525 View attachment 2169527

Are those turnback cuffs considered a classic option or is that a new trend? I saw Spier & Mackay has a dinner jacket with similar cuffs

A lovely colour.

View attachment 2169525 View attachment 2169527

Are the turnback cuffs considered a traditional style? I saw Spier & Mackay has a jacket with turnbacks this season.

 

[Faux Brummell]

Are those turnback cuffs considered a classic option or is that a new trend? I saw Spier & Mackay has a dinner jacket with similar cuffs

Are the turnback cuffs considered a traditional style? I saw Spier & Mackay has a jacket with turnbacks this season.

 

[The Chai]

Are those turnback cuffs considered a classic option or is that a new trend? I saw Spier & Mackay has a dinner jacket with similar cuffs

Are the turnback cuffs considered a traditional style? I saw Spier & Mackay has a jacket with turnbacks this season.

Personally I like them with shawl collars and dislike them on peaks.

 

[DorianGreen]

 

[The Chai]

View attachment 2170239

I have been playing with the idea of getting an olive/racing green velvet jacket though the velvet with the hue is proving hard to source.

 

[The Chai]

Took the advice you guys gave and removed the top two nipple buttons...looks better imo