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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

The Chai

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Really not sure what I'd make it of if not velvet. I did mildly flirt w/ burgundy mohair for a second, but I think it would be too avant. I don't think I'd ever wear such a jacket.
Must be just me but i quite like the avant garde look. My next 2 DJs with cream boucle and midnight crepe will be designed to incorporate such a look
 

Texasmade

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Just saw the new weight classes today. I'm actually walking around at 101kg or so these days because of some bad eating decisions, which apparently makes me a glass of water away from SHW?? With my frame, 89kg is probably my best bet for healthy long-term training, since there's no longer the old middle-heavyweight 94kg tier I used to be in. It's kind of absurd that I'm currently about 50lbs heavier than you guys and we're both considering the same weight class because of the way the Central Asian mobsters that run the IWF have set this up. Realistically though, probably none of us will ever be going to to a national/international meet except maybe as masters athletes, so weight classes don't really matter. Just train for the meet, show up in reasonable shape so that you don't look ridiculous in the spandex, go 6/6 with a PR, and have fun.
There's always the non Oly weigh class of 81kg which I could probably bulk up a kilo or 2. I'm currently at 77or 78 so not too far off.

Currently I'm still in beginner stage learning proper technique so might be another few months before I give serious thought on competing. Everyone at my gym is training for super totals (oly and power lifts). It's nice to know that I can still bench and squat more than most of them.
 

ValidusLA

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I was flipping through the Loro Piana "Events" book and before the velvets was a burgundy jacquard that I found pretty arousing. Would make a great shawl lapel DB, with big obnoxious satin lapels maybe. I'm not handsome enough for it but you can definitely pull it off. The only downside I guess is that your wife will be pretty tired from beating back all the ladies, and occasional fella, trying to tear it off your torso.

You are far too kind. It is a bad idea to complement me. I am already an arrogant asshole.

Regarding burgundy DJ @UrbanComposition @Andy57 @upr_crust in velvet - self lapelled. What are your guys thoughts on DB vs Single? I'm leaning towards DB - in which case thoughts on shawl vs peak?

Button configuration on DB dinner jacket?

Next question - my actual tuxedo is midnight blue. I probably don't want to wear midnight blue pants w/ a burgundy DJ, wo would have black pants made at the same time. What is the wisdom on this? Barathea?

Thanks!
 

Zerase

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You are far too kind. It is a bad idea to complement me. I am already an arrogant asshole.

Regarding burgundy DJ @UrbanComposition @Andy57 @upr_crust in velvet - self lapelled. What are your guys thoughts on DB vs Single? I'm leaning towards DB - in which case thoughts on shawl vs peak?

Button configuration on DB dinner jacket?

Next question - my actual tuxedo is midnight blue. I probably don't want to wear midnight blue pants w/ a burgundy DJ, wo would have black pants made at the same time. What is the wisdom on this? Barathea?

Thanks!
And while you do black trousers, you might as well do a jacket in the same fabirc, right? ;)
 

ValidusLA

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And while you do black trousers, you might as well do a jacket in the same fabirc, right? ;)

I could, but I honestly can't imagine a scenario in which I'd prefer to wear a black tuxedo over midnight blue. But I suppose it would be an intelligent choice.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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You are far too kind. It is a bad idea to complement me. I am already an arrogant asshole.

Regarding burgundy DJ @UrbanComposition @Andy57 @upr_crust in velvet - self lapelled. What are your guys thoughts on DB vs Single? I'm leaning towards DB - in which case thoughts on shawl vs peak?

Button configuration on DB dinner jacket?

Next question - my actual tuxedo is midnight blue. I probably don't want to wear midnight blue pants w/ a burgundy DJ, wo would have black pants made at the same time. What is the wisdom on this? Barathea?

Thanks!

I'm just here to feed you wild ideas because I want to walk into the shop one day, see your pimpdaddy garment hanging from Mr. Han's rack, and think, "Oh no he didn't..." I want Post Malone to walk in, see it, and go, "Okay now that's just rude..."

Jokes aside I would definitely go for the shawl lapel as that gives a relaxed dressing gowny feeling that I think jives with a velvet evening jacket's overall message. Any chance I can sell you on dressing the thing up with frogging and piping?

I never liked the contrast between velvet jacket and worsted tux pants. My own for wearing with that too-small jacket I mentioned a few pages ago are a pair of odd formal trousers made out of what feels like 400g+ worsted flannel (it might be barathea?), bought before I knew anything about this stuff, but which fortunately has worked out. There's a bit of texture to it which harmonizes with velvet but it's fairly muted and lets the jacket do the talking. Aside from barathea, this might be a bit out there, but have you considered black flannel? That would really sell the "I'm going somewhere important later" vibe if you're into that.

Since you're going bespoke, it might also be fun to play around with the side stripe? Not necessary any loud piping or anything of that sort, but perhaps something like an extra ribbed (for your pleasure) grosgrain, or something like that.
 
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upr_crust

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You are far too kind. It is a bad idea to complement me. I am already an arrogant asshole.

Regarding burgundy DJ @UrbanComposition @Andy57 @upr_crust in velvet - self lapelled. What are your guys thoughts on DB vs Single? I'm leaning towards DB - in which case thoughts on shawl vs peak?

Button configuration on DB dinner jacket?

Next question - my actual tuxedo is midnight blue. I probably don't want to wear midnight blue pants w/ a burgundy DJ, wo would have black pants made at the same time. What is the wisdom on this? Barathea?

Thanks!

For my two cents in this matter, with my burgundy velvet jacket, I wear a pair of conventional black tuxedo trousers. I also own a navy velvet jacket, single-breasted, peal lapel, which, last year, for a party at home, I wore with lighter blue flannel trousers (see below). Note that with my DB velvet jacket, I have worn black velvet slippers - with the navy jacket, I opted for patent leather, at least on that occasion. Extrapolate that, as you will, for a color and texture for whatever trousers (or shoes) you choose with wear with the burgundy jacket.

As for shawl vs. peak lapel, it's ultimately a personal choice. For myself, with a DB jacket, I would opt for peak lapels, but that's entirely my personal taste - I am more comfortable with peak lapels for myself, taking into consideration height, weight, and chest size. Consult with your tailor, and enjoy the results, whichever way you decide to go.

IMG_6456.JPG
 

Andy57

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You are far too kind. It is a bad idea to complement me. I am already an arrogant asshole.

Regarding burgundy DJ @UrbanComposition @Andy57 @upr_crust in velvet - self lapelled. What are your guys thoughts on DB vs Single? I'm leaning towards DB - in which case thoughts on shawl vs peak?

Button configuration on DB dinner jacket?

Next question - my actual tuxedo is midnight blue. I probably don't want to wear midnight blue pants w/ a burgundy DJ, wo would have black pants made at the same time. What is the wisdom on this? Barathea?

Thanks!
Here's my two cents' worth:
With a burgundy velvet jacket, which is a classic look, I'd go double breasted with self-faced peak lapels, and probably a 4x1 button configuration. Personally, I see no reason why your couldn't use midnight blue trousers with a burgundy jacket. If you are going to have a pair made, though, use a barathea from a formal bunch like Amadeus or a mohair blend. If you do that, you can always have a jacket made up later, if you feel so inclined.
 

ValidusLA

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For my two cents in this matter, with my burgundy velvet jacket, I wear a pair of conventional black tuxedo trousers. I also own a navy velvet jacket, single-breasted, peal lapel, which, last year, for a party at home, I wore with lighter blue flannel trousers (see below). Note that with my DB velvet jacket, I have worn black velvet slippers - with the navy jacket, I opted for patent leather, at least on that occasion. Extrapolate that, as you will, for a color and texture for whatever trousers (or shoes) you choose with wear with the burgundy jacket.

As for shawl vs. peak lapel, it's ultimately a personal choice. For myself, with a DB jacket, I would opt for peak lapels, but that's entirely my personal taste - I am more comfortable with peak lapels for myself, taking into consideration height, weight, and chest size. Consult with your tailor, and enjoy the results, whichever way you decide to go.

View attachment 1776384
Here's my two cents' worth:
With a burgundy velvet jacket, which is a classic look, I'd go double breasted with self-faced peak lapels, and probably a 4x1 button configuration. Personally, I see no reason why your couldn't use midnight blue trousers with a burgundy jacket. If you are going to have a pair made, though, use a barathea from a formal bunch like Amadeus or a mohair blend. If you do that, you can always have a jacket made up later, if you feel so inclined.

Thanks, guys. Good advice all around.
 

Mark from Plano

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With my last tuxedo I had it made up in a midnight blue mohair blend and had a second pair of trousers made up in the same fabric, but black. That way I have both black and midnight trousers to pair with various dinner jackets.
 

zcostilla

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Ok, I want someone to talk some sense into me if this seems dumb… but I’m a huge sucker for houndstooth. I have three houndstooth sportcoat/suit jackets that rotate in regularly, a black/light beige with blue squares woven in, a dark grey/beige, and a brown/cream that I’m passing down to my son because it doesn’t fit me well anymore after putting on weight (being disabled sucks). Anyway, I think I want a black/light beige (maybe even cream) houndstooth dinner jacket with black facings and buttons. I’d have to go with peak lapels, and I’d probably go double breasted (but I’d definitely get a vest if single breasted). I’m not sure about buttons or turn cuffs at the sleeves.

Is this crazy thinking or could it be pulled off and stay classy?
 

The Chai

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Ok, I want someone to talk some sense into me if this seems dumb… but I’m a huge sucker for houndstooth. I have three houndstooth sportcoat/suit jackets that rotate in regularly, a black/light beige with blue squares woven in, a dark grey/beige, and a brown/cream that I’m passing down to my son because it doesn’t fit me well anymore after putting on weight (being disabled sucks). Anyway, I think I want a black/light beige (maybe even cream) houndstooth dinner jacket with black facings and buttons. I’d have to go with peak lapels, and I’d probably go double breasted (but I’d definitely get a vest if single breasted). I’m not sure about buttons or turn cuffs at the sleeves.

Is this crazy thinking or could it be pulled off and stay classy?

Refer to his fourth comission and the below picture. Personally I've tried something similar and it feels more like a mutt jacket if anything but it has been done before. My suggestion is to get a proper rig first and then go for the fun wacky stuff once you're more comfortable in black tie and have a few similar rigs in rotation
images (85).jpeg
 

jiredell

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[QUOTE I’m a huge sucker for houndstooth.
[/QUOTE]

Who gives a **** what anyone else thinks. Do what makes you happy.
 

zcostilla

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Refer to his fourth comission and the below picture. Personally I've tried something similar and it feels more like a mutt jacket if anything but it has been done before. My suggestion is to get a proper rig first and then go for the fun wacky stuff once you're more comfortable in black tie and have a few similar rigs in rotation View attachment 1776524
I think this really needs peak lapels and black facings to pull it off.
 

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