The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread

[katch]

Not all shell Horween makes is alike. There are grades of shell. For example, Edward Green claims to use the highest grade of hand-selected shells coming out of Horween's factory. I always thought this is bullshit, but after comparing them to all other makers (the usual suspects - EB, C&J, Carmina), I believe they're right. No imperfections and absolute uniformity in the shell. Also, for some odd reason, they roll less and the rolls are therefore less prominent.

Cordovan Q&A | The Tannery Row | Leather Distributor

Answers to commonly asked questions about Horween Shell Cordovan

www.thetanneryrow.com

 

[jischwar]

Cordovan Q&A | The Tannery Row | Leather Distributor

Answers to commonly asked questions about Horween Shell Cordovan

www.thetanneryrow.com

Interesting article, thanks. I wonder what grade @SoleGarb gets for the EB offerings. I was understand that he has someone hand pick all shells that are sent to EB.

Would be very interested to hear what grade CJ uses as well as I find their cordovan to be fantastic

 

[katch]

Not all shell Horween makes is alike. There are grades of shell. For example, Edward Green claims to use the highest grade of hand-selected shells coming out of Horween's factory. I always thought this is bullshit, but after comparing them to all other makers (the usual suspects - EB, C&J, Carmina), I believe they're right. No imperfections and absolute uniformity in the shell. Also, for some odd reason, they roll less and the rolls are therefore less prominent.

Maybe there is more that nobody is talking about, but a) it's possible that if EG pays enough, they may have first pick (?). b) maybe some companies are better than others at identifying which pieces of shell should go where on the shoe?

 

[jischwar]

Maybe there is more that nobody is talking about, but a) it's possible that if EG pays enough, they may have first pick (?). b) maybe some companies are better than others at identifying which pieces of shell should go where on the shoe?

I think B is absolutely true. Clicking on my EB's is near impeccable, although the same is true for my CJ's and EG. Carmina has been hit or miss for me

 

[stook1]

I don't own any EB or EG shell anymore (resold both due to fit) but my read on this is a little different at least based upon the article that @katch posted. I think the variation or "quality" differentiation has more to do with how the maker cuts their shell than it has to do with the quality of the shell itself, ie. not all that different from other leathers, CXL for instance, where different makers are more/less careful about pieces of the leather that are considered less attractive.

As for my own personal experience, I have a lot of shell shoes and have not really noticed any consistent pattern to differentiate between makers. I've had the odd/random pair that were more problematic but generally speaking the quality is more similar than it is different and I attribute the variation more to the basic attributes of shell than anything else. JMHO...

How are Horween shells graded?
Horween Shell Cordovan is graded based on two factors...

1. The overall size of the shell

2. The cuttable area of the shell

This means is the imperfections and blemishes in the shell are taken into account when it's graded. It's possible to have a shell that is a higher square footage than the grade, but because of imperfections of the natural material, it's graded at a lower/smaller level. In terms of the actual quality, it's the same across the grades.

 

[stook1]

Here's some sh*t grade shell for y'all. These are 2nds so I'd have to assume they are made from the worst scraps of the lowest grade shell.

 

[jischwar]

Here's some sh*t grade shell for y'all. These are 2nds so I'd have to assume they are made from the worst scraps of the lowest grade shell.

View attachment 1576090

You'd never be able to tell

 

[katch]

Here's some sh*t grade shell for y'all. These are 2nds so I'd have to assume they are made from the worst scraps of the lowest grade shell.

View attachment 1576090

eww gross

 

[stook1]

You'd never be able to tell

To be fair, they are dark. I'm just joking around though. I know exactly why this pair were made 2nds and I already addressed the problem easily when I got them. I'm pretty curious about this whole topic though.

 

[Patrick1053]

Yeah what Horween ships out to the makes is probably mostly the same, but changes happen after that. I know Alden treats their shells, so that is why their color 8 is darker and more uniform. I also know that EB shells are thinner, so they are more flexible.
Either way.

Anyone with St. Crispin shell???

 

[stook1]

I also know that EB shells are thinner, so they are more flexible.

Purely in the interest of curiosity, can you share how you know this? I have seen it mentioned once or twice before.

 

[Patrick1053]

Purely in the interest of curiosity, can you share how you know this? I have seen it mentioned once or twice before.

same, I heard it mentioned. I don't know it absolutely, but based off experience it does feel softer, it is more flexible, and rolls easier.

 

[jischwar]

+1 - I haven't noticed this on my pairs

 

[katch]

If anything I would think that the shoe manufacturers do some work on the "stock" shell they receive from the tannery.

 

[stook1]

Out, damned spot!