The Rubinacci Thread.

[ValidusLA]

Not sure what brands you are buying that are vanity sizing in numbers. Unless they are hip sized.

Mannys run large. Generally would buy a size down compared to normal size.

 

[American_Psycho11]

Not sure what brands you are buying that are vanity sizing in numbers. Unless they are hip sized.

Mannys run large. Generally would buy a size down compared to normal size.

Pini Parma for example vanity sizes. I buy a US30 from them despite my waist measuring 34 inches.
I guess my point is, if my waist is 34 inches then I should go with a 32 and be good? Not like a tailor couldn't take the waist in should they be a bit big

 

[ValidusLA]

I'm a US 35 and have gotten my Mannys in 50 (US 34) then also my tailor takes them in.

 

[dieworkwear]

I assume you can email them and get a waist measurement. If you call their shop in Naples, Milan, or London, someone may also be able to measure for you. You can then compare that measurement to your other trousers.

 

[willyto]

I assume you can email them and get a waist measurement. If you call their shop in Naples, Milan, or London, someone may also be able to measure for you. You can then compare that measurement to your other trousers.

Why don't they just add that information in the website? I don't understand why brands don't do that instead of Size XX which literally means nothing without measurements.

Same with the rise. They put Mid Rise, high Rise but don't give the rise measurement (Outseam minus inseam)

 

[dieworkwear]

Why don't they just add that information in the website?

To spite you.

 

[coolpapa]

To spite you.

+1

 

[EFBenson]

seems the London store is in a deep sleep:

 

[coolpapa]

Well that is interesting.

 

[comrade]

True of other stores in the area?

 

[EFBenson]

all 'non-essential' shops- which includes tailors- are closed until at least April 12th, but the windows are still on display, as it were.

 

[Loathing]

The Grosvenor logo is the logo of the landlord, which suggests Rubinacci have given up their lease.

 

[coolpapa]

Chiara said they would be back April 12.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

They are definitely reopening on Monday

 

[dieworkwear]

For people who have bespoke Rubinacci jackets, and have slightly extended shoulders, I'm wondering how your jackets have held up over time.

I know some of Iammatt and Foo's jackets slightly dip at the end. Like so:

I've been told this is a result of Rubinacci using light padding on their jackets and Mariano's preference for a slightly extended shoulder, such that the shoulder seam sits off the shoulder bone. I've also been told that this effect gets worse over time -- the end gets droopier and droopier as the padding softens.

I have some Solito jackets that I like. They also use a thin pad. Luigi is reluctant to extend the shoulders because he doesn't like the droopy look, but I also like the look of an extended shoulder. I'm curious how this ages over time with a soft construction. If it takes 20 years for a jacket to look "bad," then I don't mind. If the jacket looks the same after 10 years as it did on the first year (basically, the amount of droop you see above), I think I'm OK with the trade-off.

Does anyone have experience with this?