The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

[Nullson]

If you're looking for a high instep oxford check out Enzo Bonafe or many of the other Italian makers.

 

[wurger]

Vass has relatively high instep

 

[Topaze]

I think this is a better thread to post my question in (it was previously in "NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS", so I'm sorry for cross-posting). Here it goes:

I'm looking for a pair of black cap toe oxfords of reasonably high quality, accommodating slightly high instep and a bit wider feet (but not truly wide, as in I wouldn't choose G width in my regular size, if we're talking about most British shoemakers). The two choices I'm thinking about are:

Church's Consul on the 173 last
Vass Alt Englisch on the F last (I guess that makes it MTO).
I know that Carmina's Rain will fit perfectly, and Carmina does have a couple of black oxfords in Rain (cheaper, too), but I'd like to have a bit better leather quality.

I know that Church's doesn't get a lot of love here, but I really want to stress that I'm considering this particular model (Consul), which is probably their top of the line shoe. Best leather quality and workmanship (highest price, too) - basically, Church's at their best. The question is how their best compares to Vass. I live in Europe, so I can get Vass at more or less the same price.

What would you recommend?

 

[Afinepairofshoes]



I think this is a better thread to post my question in (it was previously in "NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS", so I'm sorry for cross-posting). Here it goes:

I'm looking for a pair of black cap toe oxfords of reasonably high quality, accommodating slightly high instep and a bit wider feet (but not truly wide, as in I wouldn't choose G width in my regular size, if we're talking about most British shoemakers). The two choices I'm thinking about are:

Church's Consul on the 173 last
Vass Alt Englisch on the F last (I guess that makes it MTO).
I know that Carmina's Rain will fit perfectly, and Carmina does have a couple of black oxfords in Rain (cheaper, too), but I'd like to have a bit better leather quality.

I know that Church's doesn't get a lot of love here, but I really want to stress that I'm considering this particular model (Consul), which is probably their top of the line shoe. Best leather quality and workmanship (highest price, too) - basically, Church's at their best. The question is how their best compares to Vass. I live in Europe, so I can get Vass at more or less the same price.

What would you recommend?

Have you consider the AS Armfield? The 109 last is known to be generous in the forefoot and the construction is second to none, here is a link https://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/products/alfred-sargent-exclusive-armfield

Also, for SF members we have an exclusive discount code for your to use AFPOS10 10% discount, complimentary lasted shoes trees (£79) and free international shipping.

 

[Topaze]

Thank you for your suggestion!

I have thought about Armfield. You are certainly right in that the whole package (discount, complimentary lasted trees - on your website, as well as on Pediwear, I believe, but I may be mistaken) is very attractive.

I have both Church's custom grade and Herring Drake, which, I think, is AS Exclusive for Herring. Maybe it's just me, but the leather on the former is quite a bit more supple and pleasant to touch. AS leather, in comparison, looked a bit dry out of the box. In fact, I noticed a few very small cracks on the Drake when I first got them, so I had to apply Renovateur to make them disappear. They did disappear, but it's still something I wouldn't expect in this price range. The construction quality is top-notch, though, may very well be above Church's, although I don't have Church's signature models (Consul, Chetwynd etc.) to compare.

 

[phildi]

Church's Consul on the 173 last
Vass Alt Englisch on the F last (I guess that makes it MTO).
I know that Carmina's Rain will fit perfectly, and Carmina does have a couple of black oxfords in Rain (cheaper, too), but I'd like to have a bit better leather quality.


What would you recommend?

I have a pair of Church's Consul and I have only good things to say. True, they are custom grade, but the leather looks really nice, better than some full grain I have seen. They could cost less, but they are exceptionally comfortable (if you have a thin/narrow feet like mine) and good looking.

Phil

 

[puffy]

Good post mate.

Great to see fine shoes can be found in Sydney and that I am not the only Lobb, C&J etc wearing office worker.

Really sets it apart from all the grim slip on nastiness that guys seem to love in Oz.

 

[brillopad]

Have you consider the AS Armfield? The 109 last is known to be generous in the forefoot and the construction is second to none, here is a link https://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/products/alfred-sargent-exclusive-armfield

Also, for SF members we have an exclusive discount code for your to use AFPOS10 10% discount, complimentary lasted shoes trees (£79) and free international shipping.

I'm sure you've answered this many times before, but how is the fit of the 109? Do you typically recommend that people size down one full size from their US size? Thanks in advance; thinking about picking up a pair myself.

 

[puffy]

I'm sure you've answered this many times before, but how is the fit of the 109? Do you typically recommend that people size down one full size from their US size? Thanks in advance; thinking about picking up a pair myself.

Funny that, I've just enquired about these myself... they look pretty sweet. Wonder how the AS 109 last compares to the C&J 348...?

 

[MDeKelver]

Funny that, I've just enquired about these myself... they look pretty sweet. Wonder how the AS 109 last compares to the C&J 348...?

FWIW, I have AS 99 and 104 lasts and also wear 348 all in 10UK. The 348 is the most generous. I assume that 109 cannot be any more snug than the 99 last. But I await an expert to weigh in...

 

[Afinepairofshoes]



FWIW, I have AS 99 and 104 lasts and also wear 348 all in 10UK.  The 348 is the most generous.  I assume that 109 cannot be any more snug than the 99 last. But I await an expert to weigh in...

The 109 compares well with 348 as both are fairly long lasts.

 

[The False Prophet]



I wear the EG Chelsea and find it quite accomodating for my high instep.

Thanks for the feedback, I have been thinking hard about the Chelsea. I tried a pair (82 last) a little while ago and they look pretty fantastic.

They didn't quite lace up flush when I tried them on, but the store owner suggested that they should with some wear. I was reluctant to take the risk given the cost, but would be grateful for anyone who can comment from experience...

 

[wurger]

Oxfords suppose to have a V opening when they are new, the facing will close up a little bit as they break it.

And make sure the heel cup holds your feet well.

and make sure use this type of lacing, it does the job best. http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/straighteuropeanlacing.htm

 

[The False Prophet]

Thanks Wurger!

FWIW, how much 'V' do you think is too much? I'm a UK6.5 as well, so I especially appreciate your input...

 

[wurger]

Probably close to 2cm, but how does the rest of the shoes feel is lot more important.