**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[BackInTheJox]

Not sure if this qualifies as "shoe care", but I wanted to check with you guys: what is your opinion of using shoe trees with unlined shell cordovan shoes/loafers?

I own two pairs of Rancourt unlined pinch penny loafers, and have gone back and forth with my opinion about whether they should have shoe trees when I'm not wearing them. I've heard people say unlined shoes like them may actually help "conform" better to your foot without them and that this is desirable, and I've also heard that shell is less likely to stretch than calfskin so it's not going to hurt them at all.

Thoughts?

 

[starro]

Not sure if this qualifies as "shoe care", but I wanted to check with you guys: what is your opinion of using shoe trees with unlined shell cordovan shoes/loafers?

I own two pairs of Rancourt unlined pinch penny loafers, and have gone back and forth with my opinion about whether they should have shoe trees when I'm not wearing them. I've heard people say unlined shoes like them may actually help "conform" better to your foot without them and that this is desirable, and I've also heard that shell is less likely to stretch than calfskin so it's not going to hurt them at all.

Thoughts?

An experienced shoemaker or cobbler can correct me on this, but my understanding is that the primary shape-filling function of shoe trees is to shape the sole, not the uppers. Because walking bends the sole--which on shell cordovan shoes are still made of cow--the right shoe tree helps prevent the toe from curling upwards over time.

 

[M635Guy]

Quote: My opinion is you should absolutely use trees, but make sure you're not using trees that are too big. There is no need for a lot of tension in the shoe. A little is enough. I think most issues people experience with trees changing the shape of shoes is they are using trees poorly sized to the shoes.

 

[Munky]

I am cross posting this from the Tricker's page:


I have written quite a lot about my navy Bourton's and their matt toe caps. I emailed Tricker's and they sent me this, delightful, message. They clearly care about their customers and are - in this message - specific and helpful. I was also interested to note that the shoes were an 'end of line' and not ones with scuffs or cracks or what not. I'm sure that Tricker's won't mind my quoting from their message:

"The Bourtons were not a reject due to leather, they were an end of line ! The only suggestion we can come up with is to use a bees wax polish and try buffing them. If you live within a reasonable distance please call into the shop and we will give them to our shoe room to try and get them to shine !"

Yours faithfully, a very happy Munky.

 

[masernaut]

I haven't posted around here in a very long time. I hadn't done some shoe care in over a year and got worried about my vintage shells. I hit them with my trust ol' Saphir Renovateur and a long-time large-effort horsehair brushing. I love shell cordovan. Granted, the sun does make them look nice.

At the same time, I conditioned/polished my regular wear calf shoes two or three times in one year. I wore three pairs at least twice a week. They still look great with very little care. Leather is tough!

 

[muddy250]

About time I tried shell for myself I think, they look great

 

[muddy250]

I am cross posting this from the Tricker's page:


I have written quite a lot about my navy Bourton's and their matt toe caps. I emailed Tricker's and they sent me this, delightful, message. They clearly care about their customers and are - in this message - specific and helpful. I was also interested to note that the shoes were an 'end of line' and not ones with scuffs or cracks or what not. I'm sure that Tricker's won't mind my quoting from their message:

"The Bourtons were not a reject due to leather, they were an end of line ! The only suggestion we can come up with is to use a bees wax polish and try buffing them. If you live within a reasonable distance please call into the shop and we will give them to our shoe room to try and get them to shine !"

Yours faithfully, a very happy Munky.

Good news, keep at it

 

[gsgleason]



I haven't posted around here in a very long time. I hadn't done some shoe care in over a year and got worried about my vintage shells. I hit them with my trust ol' Saphir Renovateur and a long-time large-effort horsehair brushing. I love shell cordovan. Granted, the sun does make them look nice. At the same time, I conditioned/polished my regular wear calf shoes two or three times in one year. I wore three pairs at least twice a week. They still look great with very little care. Leather is tough!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Gorgeous! What make are those LWBs? The condition is amazing.

 

[LeviStubbsTears]

I recently bought a pair of made in Brazil Bass Weejuns off ebay. I was disappointed to realize the soles were made of a really hard synthetic material. I wore them to the movies the first night I wore them, and the theater had installed the new "deluxe" reclining vinyl seats. As I put my seat back down to head to the restroom, i realized that both of the rubber heels had popped off! I'm assuming that the heels had come off previously and the eBay seller had reattached them with the wrong method. I assume that I should just be using an adhesive, since it doesn't seem like the synthetic midsole would accept a nail. Could anyone give a recommendation for a proper adhesive that should give a good bond after I sand off whats currently on there?

 

[M635Guy]

Gorgeous! What make are those LWBs? The condition is amazing.

"LWB" stands for "Longwing bluchers", which is the style of those shoes. The brougued strip that runs from the front to the back of the shoe is what makes it a "long" wingtip. Very classic style, and many companies have a take on it. I'm a sucker for a longwing. In fact, I just got a pair of shell cordovan Florsheim Imperials from 1968 that I'm hoping to have the time of freshening up over the holiday... (pic from the eBay auction)

 

[Sactogeoff]

Can anyone shed a little light on which types of leather show more color variation at the folds/flex point across the toes below the throat line? For example, would a patina shoe "brighten" more at the folds vs a pre-dyed shoe? I'm only curious because I happen to like the effect. Just to clarify, this isn't a question about Shell Cordovan. I'm curious about how which dying process effects the long term look of cow leather.

 

[M635Guy]

Can anyone shed a little light on which types of leather show more color variation at the folds/flex point across the toes below the throat line? For example, would a patina shoe "brighten" more at the folds vs a pre-dyed shoe? I'm only curious because I happen to like the effect. Just to clarify, this isn't a question about Shell Cordovan. I'm curious about how which dying process effects the long term look of cow leather.

When people talk about "pull-up" leathers, that's what they're talking about (they are often dyed, but show the pull-up effect at bend-points, etc).

Horweens Chromexcel ("CXL") is probably the most famous/commonly available current leather like this. My Maronne Horsehide Derbys from Truman are definitely in that class as well (not a Horween leather). I have four shoes that are in this style of leather (three calf CXL plus the horsehide), but Essex, Dublin, saddle veg tan and other leathers also develop a patina and are worth considering.

There are some much more knowledgeable folks here who can give much better insight...

 

[DWFII]



There are some much more knowledgeable folks here who can give much better insight...

Your explanation is as good as any. The only thing I would add is that true pull-up leathers are almost universally heavily oiled. They will not take a shine very well because of that, and the oil itself is the reason the pipes and wrinkles darken or lighten--it is the excess oil being forced to, or away from, the surface or

 

[Munky]

Season's greetings to all our readers!

With love from Munky!

 

[Stirling]



In my experience owning many different brushes the best one for me was a $6 Kiwi brush. The expensive ones seem to have stiffer bristles, which for me feels too aggressive on the leather. The Kiwi brush is softer and with time gets even softer. It has the perfect balance of stiffness and softness where I can use it over a bulled toe and heel quarter to liven it back up without pitting the surface. YMMV.

The best brushes for fine leather shoes are horsehair and never scratch the leather. The very best brushes are actually over stuffed and will for the first dozen or so times actually lose hair. The exception are boar or pig bristle brushes, the quality ones never lose hair, however whilst providing a quicker polish, these stiffer bristles invariably damage the leather of fine shoes on a micro level, so I never recommend them.

As you correctly say, a good brush will get even softer with use, as it breaks in and becomes suffused with the oils & waxes involved in the polishing process. Synthetic brushes are a waste of time and goat or yak hair brushes are not for the faint hearted as the require a lot of patience to master, but really are the epitome of the art of polishing. It's a shame more people don't persist with them, but they aren't easy. For example they are initially highly absorbent, so require several polishing sessions before they are even ready to give shoes a proper shine and if used incorrectly they will actually dull the shine.

A good quality brush is not something to skimp on, it'll likely outlive the shoes. Depending on how many brushes are in your rotation, sometimes it becomes necessary to clean your brushes. Use white spirit or a product like renomat sparingly, soaking the hair half way up (any higher and you risk rusting/damaging the metal filaments that hold the shaft of the hair in the handle) after 30 minutes or so simply scrub the brush with an old t shirt or tissue until dry.