**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[striker]

I am not quite understanding this. What kind of inserts did you get? If you are able to fit a full length insert, it usually means the shoe is sized too big. And yet, the baffling point you added is that after removing them, they fit well. I would've suspected that it would be too loose, unless your idea of comfort is a slightly loose shoe, this may indeed be the case for those with one foot larger than another.

I can only hypothesize that perhaps the breaking in of the sole and upper might have contributed to the increased comfort and this may have been hastened because your shoes with the inserts inside must have fit really snug.

Why do you remove the inserts? Perhaps a reasonable comparison might be to try to break into the shoe without one.

 

[Munky]

Yes it all sounds counterintuitive, I agree. I think it is something like this: the new shoes slip a bit at the heel. I put in a fairly standard, thin, leather insert. After a while, I find that the leather underneath the vamp and toecap, rub against my toes and upper foot. Once the heel stops slipping, I can take the inserts out and everything feels fine. It seems to me that It might be due to the unbending nature of new shoes. The shoes do not feel too big once I have taken the inserts out. Perhaps I didn't need them in the first place! It's hard to convey anything else; this is as far as I have got with trying to understand it.

 

[traverscao]

Hi all. These are my Meermin LMs museum calf. Anyone would have any idea on alleviating the interesting creases/striations on one side of the quarters? (it's only on one shoe). A buff with Saphir Renovateur perhaps? They don't appear to be cracks however. From memory, they may been present from the beginning but that has been some time ago.

Antique finishes can be finicky. Otherwise, I'd suggest a little more conditioner on your shoes.

 

[Zapasman]

This bootie has about the same creases which I like. Leather quality is about the same as yours. Whats the problem?. As Traverscao said, use some conditioner or brush and forget about them.

 

[cbfn]

I suppose it's just cut from a part of the hide with a looser fibre mat.
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/06/leather-quality-how-it-varies.html

 

[Yowzer]

It looks like just finish cracking, could be the top coat, or the dried wax polish. Other than putting some Lexol on it I'd live with it. If you use renomat to remove it you're likely going to ruin the museum finish on it as well.

I get the same on a pair of VASS museum. I think its just a sign of low quality leather. Interestingly enough, I dont get it in a more recent pair that I ordered from Vass, and its likely that they switched suppliers (the new museum feels more supple as well).

I doubt that any shoe care product will fix this although open to suggestions.

Hard to tell from a photo and a better analysis could be made if you were standing in the shoes...

But that said, sometimes such creases in the waist indicate a poor fit.

If the heel to medial ball joint length is not consistent with the same dimensions on the last, the foot will not fill the volume that the shoe is creating. The shoe won't properly support the arch of the foot either, which is why I so often reiterate that the H-B length is the most important determiner of fit...rather than the ubiquitous and often misleading heel to toe length.

I think your leather it is ok (not the best, but still good enough) as well as your fit, Standard leather quality by Meermin. Do not worry at all, they look nice.

Thank you all for your observations. It is most likely the leather itself (being not the best piece chosen when making that particular area) but with Meermins at the price point that they were (before the recent hike), still represented great value.@DWFII could very well be right too on fit as it's on the left shoe, where my foot is up to 0.5 size smaller than my right. H-B means Heel to Ball joint right?

Will moisturise the bugger and see if it does anything. As long as it doesn't get worse (real cracking etc) I'll be happy as this pair gets the most wears of all my shoes. And ironically the least dear ($) of the lot too...

 

[Zapasman]

I suppose it's just cut from a part of the hide with a looser fibre mat.
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/06/leather-quality-how-it-varies.html

Or maybe the leather comes from an old cow?.I do not know. I just know I paid the price for its quality, so no worries at all.

 

[traverscao]

Fellas, I have a hard time deciding. Should I keep using Tandy Leather's Pure Neatsfoot Oil, or should I buy Pure Neatsfoot Oil from Bick? In addition, I'd like to know if any of you folks had ever used the oil from Bick.

This product here, http://bickmore.mybigcommerce.com/neetsfoot-oil/, is what I was talking about, comparing to this, http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/product/tandy-pure-neatsfoot-oil-21997-119.aspx, just to clear the confusion(s) beforehand.

 

[mddb83]

Hi everyone - any suggestions on what to use to protect chocolate calfskin on my new Rancourts?

 

[niakulah]

Hard to tell from a photo and a better analysis could be made if you were standing in the shoes...

But that said, sometimes such creases in the waist indicate a poor fit.

If the heel to medial ball joint length is not consistent with the same dimensions on the last, the foot will not fill the volume that the shoe is creating. The shoe won't properly support the arch of the foot either, which is why I so often reiterate that the H-B length is the most important determiner of fit...rather than the ubiquitous and often misleading heel to toe length.

DWFII,

I've seen you write this numerous times now, but I can't quite see how I can put this into practice (in buying RTW shoes). On a Brannock, my H-T is 10D but my H-B is 11C. But so far I have had best fit with UK9G (US10EE?).

Problem is, it's very difficult for me to actually put on any 11C shoes. And when I can actually get my feet in, I think the pressure I'm putting on the facings trying to keep my heel in place would actually cause the facings to bend. I think this is because what I have always assumed were wide feet were actually fat(and flat) feet. Yet I have no problems making the facings of my UK9G oxfords meet, which is why I used the word 'fat' instead of high instep(if that makes any sense).

I know you've told me before it is impossible to properly diagnose fit issues online, but any insights would be helpful. The shops I've been to so far have not been able to find me a good fit, and I'm trying to exhaust all options before going bespoke(or accept poor fit).

 

[traverscao]

DWFII,

I've seen you write this numerous times now, but I can't quite see how I can put this into practice (in buying RTW shoes). On a Brannock, my H-T is 10D but my H-B is 11C. But so far I have had best fit with UK9G (US10EE?).

Problem is, it's very difficult for me to actually put on any 11C shoes. And when I can actually get my feet in, I think the pressure I'm putting on the facings trying to keep my heel in place would actually cause the facings to bend. I think this is because what I have always assumed were wide feet were actually fat(and flat) feet. Yet I have no problems making the facings of my UK9G oxfords meet, which is why I used the word 'fat' instead of high instep(if that makes any sense).

I know you've told me before it is impossible to properly diagnose fit issues online, but any insights would be helpful. The shops I've been to so far have not been able to find me a good fit, and I'm trying to exhaust all options before going bespoke(or accept poor fit).

In my personal perspective, FWIW:

In the world of RTW shoes, I doubt if we all call our shoes fit. We either cram our toes into it and hope for a slight expansion, or gradual fit, or else we swim our feet in it, or, worse case scenario, have some funny feet that ironically cannot make us smile for any particular reason you can name. It's painful enough just for the fitting, but it is worse, when the footwear may fit comfortably, not properly, it may sacrifice the cosmetic value. A fair portion of us may be lucky enough to have a balance of both, but never the best of both.

Therefore, if opportunity is ever at hands (which SHOULD be soon), I will always go for bespoke footwear as how I would go to a tailor instead of department store. One lousy material but well fitted garment with comfort is still way worthier than paying **** load for a lousy looking, expensive garbage.

 

[benhour]

Hi everyone - any suggestions on what to use to protect chocolate calfskin on my new Rancourts?

First of all welcome!
If i am not mistaken this is a current model so there would be no benefit of caking your shoes into conditioners etc! if you want more shine just use a cream polish or a wax (apply really small amount , always a matching dark brown color ) ! judging from the color it would be very difficult to stain them(i think you ll have to try that hahaha) and from the fact that they have rubber soles i dont think you would have any salt stain from the road!! j
So just enjoy them and after some time use a light conditioner!!

 

[DWFII]



DWFII,

I've seen you write this numerous times now, but I can't quite see how I can put this into practice (in buying RTW shoes). On a Brannock, my H-T is 10D but my H-B is 11C. But so far I have had best fit with UK9G (US10EE?).

Problem is, it's very difficult for me to actually put on any 11C shoes. And when I can actually get my feet in, I think the pressure I'm putting on the facings trying to keep my heel in place would actually cause the facings to bend. I think this is because what I have always assumed were wide feet were actually fat(and flat) feet. Yet I have no problems making the facings of my UK9G oxfords meet, which is why I used the word 'fat' instead of high instep(if that makes any sense).

I know you've told me before it is impossible to properly diagnose fit issues online, but any insights would be helpful. The shops I've been to so far have not been able to find me a good fit, and I'm trying to exhaust all options before going bespoke(or accept poor fit).

First, I don't put any stock in Brannock Devices. It's not that they aren't accurate but that shoe manufacturers are just as likely to disregard sizing standards as not. What the Brannock determines is an 11 is not necessarily what the manufacturer thinks an 11 is.

Second, the Brannock device cannot give you a girth measurement at any point on the foot. An appropriate treadline width and heelseat width (usually a fair determiner of last width) may not correspond to what you need in a shoe to accommodate the volume of your foot.

Third, AFAIK, timeout of mind width designations for lasts have been A, B, C, D, E, with AA and EE and so forth making up the extremes. I don't even know what a 9G is. I think you'd need to go to a EEE or even a EEEE before a G would even signify.

Perhaps you should try an 11D or E to see if it accommodates your foot better. But beware...make sure that the rear part of your foot isn't 'swimming' in the shoe.

Ultimately, if you are going to get a fit, you probably will need a MTM or bespoke shoe. This is the only way to address short toes-long relative H-B and relatively more or less girth in the forepart than the footprint would indicate, etc..

All that said, you should be lacing your shoes snug...not tight, but snug. Often esp. in the minds of manufacturers and customers, a hefty instep girth (fat foot) and a high instep are functionally so close to being the same thing as to make no difference. There is a difference, however and it often shows up at the back of the shoe. That said, if you can cinch the facings together so that they touch, the shoe doesn't fit...for one reason or another.

Whatever shoes you purchase, if they are ever going to fit you correctly...or even come close...should fit snugly over the instep and along the topline and cup the heel such that it does not slip up and down when you walk. A loose fit is not a fit--you may as well strap the box the shoes came in to your feet.

Food for thought...not a diagnosis of your fitting problems. Hope it helps.

 

[ShawnBC]

Quick question - I know you need to condition your shoes regularly with shoe conditioner and other waxes/polishes. But what about pairs you don't wear often? Do you give them a quick rub of conditioner once in a while even if you only wear them once in a blue moon?

I have a pair of Kent Wang black plain toe balmorals that I purchased to wear with my wedding tuxedo. I have worn them once or twice, but haven't worn them for almost a year now. They've been sitting on my shoe rack (with shoe trees) for a while now. Even if I don't wear them, I was wondering if the leather could dry and crack by just being in contact with the air for so long. Should I include them in my shoe care routine even if they're almost brand new?

Other question - regarding Allen Edmonds McTavish, which are made of Horween Dublin leather - a rough waxed leather. On AE's website they recommand using their shoe conditioner and saddle soap instead of regular products because of the nature of the leather. What's your view on this? Obviously, I don't want to shine them, so waxes and polishes are out of the question, but could I just substitute the AE conditioner and saddle soap for a quick rub of Saphir Renovateur as base maintenance?

Thanks guys!

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Quick question - I know you need to condition your shoes regularly with shoe conditioner and other waxes/polishes. But what about pairs you don't wear often? Do you give them a quick rub of conditioner once in a while even if you only wear them once in a blue moon?

I have a pair of Kent Wang black plain toe balmorals that I purchased to wear with my wedding tuxedo. I have worn them once or twice, but haven't worn them for almost a year now. They've been sitting on my shoe rack (with shoe trees) for a while now. Even if I don't wear them, I was wondering if the leather could dry and crack by just being in contact with the air for so long. Should I include them in my shoe care routine even if they're almost brand new?

Other question - regarding Allen Edmonds McTavish, which are made of Horween Dublin leather - a rough waxed leather. On AE's website they recommand using their shoe conditioner and saddle soap instead of regular products because of the nature of the leather. What's your view on this? Obviously, I don't want to shine them, so waxes and polishes are out of the question, but could I just substitute the AE conditioner and saddle soap for a quick rub of Saphir Renovateur as base maintenance?

Thanks guys!

Do the bold infrequently, whether worn or not.