**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[GMMcL]



I could be wrong but the boots look like the uppers have already has cracks.

Right. If I wasn't clear before, let me acknowledge upfront: cracks have already begun to form. The leather certainly hasn't split all the way through, though. What I want to know is how do I stabilize them so the cracks don't get worse. Especially once I apply some polish, I'm reasonably comfortable I can disguise the cracking to the point that they will still be useful for the application I have in mind (primarily inclement weather boots when I don't want to wear my C&J shells).

It may be that some folks wouldn't invest the time. But I would like to, if for nothing more than the learning that would come with it. So I would appreciate any advice (that isn't "don't waste your time").

Thanks again in advance.

 

[SuitedDx]

Haven't done this much work, maybe Nick V. can provide insight. He would probably be one of the most reliable sources. Good luck!

 

[grendel]

Right. If I wasn't clear before, let me acknowledge upfront: cracks have already begun to form. The leather certainly hasn't split all the way through, though. What I want to know is how do I stabilize them so the cracks don't get worse. Especially once I apply some polish, I'm reasonably comfortable I can disguise the cracking to the point that they will still be useful for the application I have in mind (primarily inclement weather boots when I don't want to wear my C&J shells).

It may be that some folks wouldn't invest the time. But I would like to, if for nothing more than the learning that would come with it. So I would appreciate any advice (that isn't "don't waste your time").

Thanks again in advance.

Check out the Saphir Dubbin Graisse product. Kirby Allison had a video of using it to keep cracks from spreading by getting as much oil into the leather as possible.

http://www.hangerproject.com/closet/saphir-dubbin-waterproofing-polish.html

 

[dbhdnhdbh]

I have used SnoSeal for the same purpose. Far cheaper than the Saphir product and easy to use. You do have to be careful not to use too much, or the leather will not shine until the extra wears off.

I have never heard it suggested that Lexol will damage the leather, but once it is already cracking, you may not be able to get the conditioner to do much. The wax in Sno Seal at least will stay where you put it. I am doing the same with a set of bargain used shoes in similar condition. They are not cracking anymore, and don't stay shined for very long, but they seem to be holding up.

 

[GMMcL]

Thanks, guys. For some reason, it makes more sense to me to use mink and seal oil than beeswax. So I found the Saphir product for under $10, and I'ma give it a shot.

Thanks again!

 

[P755]

I was wondering how do you clear away the scuff marks just infront of the toebox? I happen to graze the wooden sole of my shoes while walking over those cobble stone surface this morning.

 

[SHS]



X-post from a Loake Pimlico thread:
Will leather soles with renewable topys last longer than rubber soles? How many times would you be able to get soles re-topyed? I imagine it would greatly reduce the need for resoling?

Bump. Has no one ever gotten their topys renewed?

 

[joiji]

Quote: I posted this in another thread earlier:

Depends. Topy over leather doesn't really compare to a full rubber sole for proper ****** weather, but will be just as good for light showers/grass/etc. Top is easier to replace though. I'd suggest getting one pair on a proper rubber sole (danite/commando/ridgeway) for terrible weather and just living with the damage to leather soles the other times (or topy for peace of mind if you feel so inclined.). You will require a full resole if a danite wears though, although they are just as hardy, if not hardier, than leather soles. I wouldn't worry about wearing through them quickly.

 

[SuitedDx]



Bump. Has no one ever gotten their topys renewed?

Sorry, missed your original post. I've had a pair of shoes before and had the sole guards done a couple of times. Basically, I don't think there is a limit on how many times you could replace sole guards (please someone correct me if I err) if you don't wear them out through to the original leather sole. Compared to a rubber sole (i.e., Dianite), since most manufacturers say you should only resole 3 to 4 times for Goodyear, I think the former method would last longer (albeit more sole guard replacements).

 

[azumi]

not sure this is a viable option for you, but I just thought it looked cool

(since we`re talking about sole reinforcement)

As the given photo illustrates, the tap holes need to be drilled through the leather sole before attaching, does it damage the leather sole? for example, water may soak through the slits created by drilling?

 

[SHS]



I posted this in another thread earlier: Depends. Topy over leather doesn't really compare to a full rubber sole for proper ****** weather, but will be just as good for light showers/grass/etc. Top is easier to replace though. I'd suggest getting one pair on a proper rubber sole (danite/commando/ridgeway) for terrible weather and just living with the damage to leather soles the other times (or topy for peace of mind if you feel so inclined.). You will require a full resole if a danite wears though, although they are just as hardy, if not hardier, than leather soles. I wouldn't worry about wearing through them quickly.

Sorry, missed your original post. I've had a pair of shoes before and had the sole guards done a couple of times. Basically, I don't think there is a limit on how many times you could replace sole guards (please someone correct me if I err) if you don't wear them out through to the original leather sole. Compared to a rubber sole (i.e., Dianite), since most manufacturers say you should only resole 3 to 4 times for Goodyear, I think the former method would last longer (albeit more sole guard replacements).

Thanks for the replies. That was pretty much what I thought too. I have both rubber soled and sole guarded ones, but have not worn through either yet. It makes sense that getting multiple sole guards when the need arises is a less damaging procedure than getting a new sole. I have tried walking on leather soles without sole guards, but I can't get used to it, and it's just better and cheaper in the long run to get sole guards, at least for me.

 

[grendel]

As the given photo illustrates, the tap holes need to be drilled through the leather sole before attaching, does it damage the leather sole? for example, water may soak through the slits created by drilling?

Not only that, the holes are drilled right where the stitching that holds the sole on goes. DFWIII, a member here who is a master shoe / boot maker, was very critical of toe taps for this reason and said they do more damage than good.

 

[MoneyWellSpent]

Not only that, the holes are drilled right where the stitching that holds the sole on goes. DFWIII, a member here who is a master shoe / boot maker, was very critical of toe taps for this reason and said they do more damage than good.

I remember that conversation too. It was very helpful, because I always fret over my toes wearing too quickly when I get a new pair. That said, in my experience the toes of my shoes look like they are wearing alarmingly fast initially as the squared off edge of the new sole is "adjusting" to my unique walking style and wear pattern. Once they reach the rounded point that I naturally put on them from normal wear, they reach a point where they are mostly stable unless I accidently kick something or stump them on something. Once they stabilize, a coat of edge dressing every few weeks keeps them looking fine. I haven't felt like my shoes needed to be resoled strictly from toe wear up to this point. I'm curious about what other's experience is with that.

 

[nutcracker]



Not only that, the holes are drilled right where the stitching that holds the sole on goes. DFWIII, a member here who is a master shoe / boot maker, was very critical of toe taps for this reason and said they do more damage than good. 

I guess brass pins are also no no?

@Leffot

 

[FlaneurNYC]

^ I may be wrong, but those were probably part of the original construction, so it should not be a problem.