**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[bcdcb]

Suede or rough-out is not the same as "waxed-finished or waterproof" leather.

Ah, ok. So what is the preferred method of maintaining this type of leather? I can't find too much on google.

Edit: or is maintenance of roughout the same as you'd treat your suede shoes? In which case there's more than enough information of course

 

[fritzl]

fwiw, never had this happen, in order I cannot confirm or deny this, but as we discussed it before already, I'm not doing mirror shining.

A thin layer should be fine. My problem is that in order to achieve a mirror shine, I put too much wax on the vamp where it actually flexes. Dry wax tend to crack around that area.

 

[DWFII]

Ah, ok. So what is the preferred method of maintaining this type of leather? I can't find too much on google.

Edit: or is maintenance of roughout the same as you'd treat your suede shoes? In which case there's more than enough information of course

Well, "rough out" generally refers to a top grain cow or calf skin that has been turned so that the flesh, rather than the grain (the "skin" surface), is outward. But sometimes it can also apply to a "split"...where the grain surface has been split away and sold separately. Both of these are sometimes called "suede."

In common parlance, "suede" can be a split or a "reverse calf." ["Reverse calf" is technically the same as the above description for "rough out." But the word "rough", itself, implies a coarseness that most reverse calf tries to avoid.]

Typically splits and reverse calf are not oiled or "dressed." The goal is to emulate the look and feel of velvet. And, in fact, the finer the "nap"...the less roughness, IOW...the better quality, generally speaking.

As implied, suede splits and rough-outs tend to have a coarse nap.

All such leathers can be waterproofed with products designed for suede--which impregnate the leather with silicone or some other chemical without the matting and laying down of the nap as would occur with dubbin or Sno-Seal or creams.

Brushing...with a suede brush...is also part and parcel of maintaining "suede".

"Wax-finished or waterproof leathers" have no real nap. They do not look or feel like velvet because the the nap has been "glued down" with the wax or dubbin. So much so that once upon a time waxed flesh leather could be made to look like patent leather.

 

[LLEE]

While on the topic of suede care, should anything be done to old suede before brushing? I know there are plenty of suede cleaner sprays, but I’m hesitant to put any sort of chemical solvent on 70-80 year old suede.
FWIW, it does not feel overly dry or brittle. The nap is very fine, and the areas I have brushed gently look wonderful, I just want to make sure I’m not actually damaging the leather.

 

[EnglishShoes]

I have never used it, but I believe SnoSeal is a very heavy duty water proofing agent which you wouldn't want on suede shoes. I have only heard of people using it on heavy work boots or walking boots.

 

[audog]

I have never used it, but I believe SnoSeal is a very heavy duty water proofing agent which you wouldn't want on suede shoes. I have only heard of people using it on heavy work boots or walking boots.

Correct, use on work boots or winter boots only. Not on suede.

 

[fritzl]

Not literally correct, but fairly true.

It doesn't hurt to treat the welt, which leaves a small strip on the upper at first. this is soaked in over time and is not visible from a top view and/or from two yards+ away. Is it clever, I dunno. I live in a rough climate, so I just do it for slush and waterproofing. Do you need a heart to do it? Probably, if you're a wimp, I'm not. my results are good to marvelous. that makes me strong to continue. ymmv.

Correct, use on work boots or winter boots only. Not on suede.

 

[smilence]

Help! darker polish was mistakenly used on my Carmina shoes with vegano color, so I used saphir renomat to remove them. After application and use wet cloth to clean the ressidue, the discoloration happened. Is it because of applying too much? I heard so many good things about renomat saying it's safe to use on the best leather and didn't expect this.

 

[cbfn]

You probably used a bit too much and stripped off some of the finishing. Renomat is a very harsh cleaner, and should be used seldom and sparingly. I would start with a small application of leather conditioner, and then some shoe cream and finish with wax.

 

[EnglishShoes]

It sounds like you confused Saphir Renomat with Saphir Renovateur.

Renomat is a harsh cleaner/stripper to be used with extreme caution and Renovateur is a more gentle conditioning cream which is safe to use on most leathers.

It doesn't help that many people refer to Renovateur as "Reno".

You can recover though by using some suitably coloured cream polish.

 

[Luigi_M]

@smilence ... you're not alone. I too put myself in the same trouble, except I was using mineral spirit.

Anyway, @cbfn and @EnglishShoes are right: your shoes may easily be rescued the way they suggest, as myself did at the time: here are the pics I took.

Right after a thorough wipe with mineral spirit (hey, when I decide to do something, I want to do it well ):


I left the solvent dry completely (until I could not smell it anymore), then I gave a first light layer of cream. I think it's better to use little little cream (just stain the tip of your finger), and try to spread it quickly and evenly. It's also better not to apply too much cream in a single spot, at risk that the leather absorbs it irregularly thus creating a darker patch


Long story short, here's the outcome, after three layers of cream (each one very light, left to absorb for some time and then vigorously brushed). The shoe on the right has been given a final polish with a cloth, the one on the left is still awaiting same treatment)


If I managed to rescue my shoes, I've no doubt you will succeed with yours as well.
Good luck, and sin no more!
Luigi

 

[smilence]

@smilence ... you're not alone. I too put myself in the same trouble, except I was using mineral spirit.

Anyway, @cbfn and @EnglishShoes are right: your shoes may easily be rescued the way they suggest, as myself did at the time: here are the pics I took.

Right after a thorough wipe with mineral spirit (hey, when I decide to do something, I want to do it well ):
View attachment 957187

I left the solvent dry completely (until I could not smell it anymore), then I gave a first light layer of cream. I think it's better to use little little cream (just stain the tip of your finger), and try to spread it quickly and evenly. It's also better not to apply too much cream in a single spot, at risk that the leather absorbs it irregularly thus creating a darker patch
View attachment 957188

Long story short, here's the outcome, after three layers of cream (each one very light, left to absorb for some time and then vigorously brushed). The shoe on the right has been given a final polish with a cloth, the one on the left is still awaiting same treatment)
View attachment 957189

If I managed to rescue my shoes, I've no doubt you will succeed with yours as well.
Good luck, and sin no more!
Luigi

Thx man! Someone on reddit told me the same thing, and I just applied some renovator, and it got much better!

 

[Munky]

I write to acknowledge that I have fallen somewhat into disrepute. I realise that, for most of the time, I no longer remove my laces when polishing my shoes. The sky won't fall in but I feel a certain chagrin. Yours, as ever, Munky.

 

[Gus]

Anyone on this thread might enjoy this film http://shinersdocumentary.com/trailer/

 

[Luigi_M]

@Munky , I think that not only the sky isn't going to fall, but your shoes won't explode and their vamps and soles aren't going to crack because of this!
I myself must plead guilty for not removing shoelaces every time I polish my shoes, but I'm an happy and unashamed sinner in this matter.
Aaaahh ... after this outing I feel relieved, thank you for opening the Vase of Pandora for me and - I think - many other gentlemen!
Luigi.