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The overriding theme in all these histories, however, is that the sport coat was considered casual and often sporty. They were traditionally worn with similarly casual shoes. Today, we think of the sport coat as dressy because the needle has moved towards a much more casual wardrobe.
How people perceive something is how that thing is... Sport coats and tailored trousers are somewhat dressy now, because that is how people perceive them. When I wear a navy jacket and grey trousers to work, people ask (or used to ask) me why I'm dressed up. Which may be one reason why I'm fine wearing oxfords in such a situation... especially if I'm on the road and only want to pack one or two pairs of shoes.
I do think a more modern interpretation of the rule we're discussed can be "oxfords only with tailored clothing." I'd never wear them with even the sharpest jeans, regardless of the color or material, including suede.
Also, sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, I don't know why I find this topic so interesting.
If we take it to be true that sport coats are often considered to be overdressed in most environments today, then wouldn't you want to wear the most casual shoes possible, so as to show that this is a relaxed and casual thing? Open collared shirt, no tie, sport coat, odd trousers, and then a casual shoe like loafers or derbies?
don't forget "snazzy" too............whatever that means (its very American).I imagine the person who wears AE Strandmoks always swaps out the laces for "fun" ones and uses the word dapper regularly.
All this talk about sports jackets is not really applicable to odd jackets, in my view. There is a world of difference between a shooting jacket and an odd jacket which is otherwise cut like a suit. The latter I'd happily wear with a variety of shoes to a social outing - the former requires at least brogues, if not heavy boots, and looks ridiculous in the city.
There are examples of men in the past wearing brown, black and white, or grey jackets like this with city-toned trousers and oxfords. Even if there were not, you might imagine the two: grey tweed herringbone, white shirt with black trousers and tie, black oxfords. Quite moddish. Or brown herringbone, grey check trousers, brown wingtip oxfords.
In fact, I wonder where the place of wingtips is in this discussion? I do think something like these would work with odd jackets, though not with a sports jacket:
View attachment 1496606
I use the term sport coat to mean odd jacket. That is, a jacket designed to be worn without matching pants.
I just can't shake the association between sport coat + oxfords as being a very Trunk Club kind of look. It just feels like this to me
View attachment 1496610
I use the term sport coat to mean odd jacket. That is, a jacket designed to be worn without matching pants.
I just can't shake the association between sport coat + oxfords as being a very Trunk Club kind of look. It just feels like this to me
View attachment 1496610
I just can't shake the association between sport coat + oxfords as being a very Trunk Club kind of look. It just feels like this to me
I have no idea what that means. Please explain.The drape on those trousers, god damn.
How the trousers hang off his legs and hips is extremely clean.I have no idea what that means. Please explain.
So, how does the concept of drape fit into that? And, the pants are too short.How the trousers hang off his legs and hips is extremely clean.
The silhouette is completely straight.
As I understand it, drape is how clothing hangs off your body. The fit looks perfect for him, as is how it tapers very gradually.So, how does the concept of drape fit into that? And, the pants are too short.