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The official CELINE thread

mugatu

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So wait, what are we being led to believe here? That Hedi's secret muse is this Krystal character and that he's been studying her style for the last 10 years for inspiration? Sorry but I just don't buy it, I don't even see that strong a connection in those pictures. Polka dots, stripe shirts & trucker hats? Hardly very singular concepts.. Also women have been wearing men suits for years, Hedi even had the Petite Collection at DH for that purpose alone and lets not forget Yve's Le smoking:
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If Babeteeth are such avant-guarde creatives & stylists, perhaps they should venture themselves into fashion instead of making all these claims of plagiarism? Not trying to defend Hedi, we all know he takes inspo from others (and they have a strong case with the mouth logo) but these other claims are getting kinda ridiculous imo.
 

Malour

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Anything you all might pick up come August?
After seeing how little have been put out so far from The Dancing Kid I am afraid to get my hopes too high, but if the following things will make it to production I could very well pick them up:
The western boots (I like the wider shaft) and the boot cut/flared jeans with raw hem (I am certain I saw them in one look, but not sure if this is the one)
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This flannel and the jacket looks really cool so maybe that one as well.
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And I liked pretty much every piece of knitwear, so definitely one of the patterned ones.
 
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mugatu

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Where are you guys getting all these FW21 lookbook pics? Links please!

Also feeling those western boots..
 

thorns

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Also women have been wearing men suits for years, Hedi even had the Petite Collection at DH for that purpose alone and lets not forget Yve's Le smoking
I think Yves made the first step, but I would say his suit for women is "for women". I think it was necessary for the more unisex suit that will follow. Didn't know about the Petite Collection, so that's cool to know! I'm assuming it is the same cut just in smaller sizes to fit smaller frames and men would wear it too.

Not trying to defend Hedi, we all know he takes inspo from others (and they have a strong case with the mouth logo).
If I were Babeteeth, I would definitely connect with Celine/LVMH and open negotiations and see what I can leverage out of this situation (assuming they haven't done that already). I would try to see it as playing chess. I would be thinking along the lines of how can I take advantage of the position my opponent placed themselves in. What moves can I make to benefit me. Based on Aaron's replies, he feels quite reasonable, so perhaps they've decided on their chess moves using Instagram already. At the end of the day, I'm no expert in this so I'll just watch from the side lines.
 

thorns

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Where are you guys getting all these FW21 lookbook pics? Links please!

Also feeling those western boots..
 

thorns

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I would imagine Parade matching Gwyneth Paltrow. It has that natural smell that is sophisticated and composed but not cold. She does yoga, eats healthy, and takes care of herself. The dry down of Parade has this feeling of a spa hot clean towel smell without being hot. She's put together without trying to be sexy. Radiant beauty.
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thorns

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Nightclubbing would be Kate Moss. Cigarette smell that eventually fades into a gentle powdery sweet suede scent. She knows she's sexy. She puts in some effort, but knows she doesn't need to scream in your face how sexy she is to get your attention. Magnetic. A little naughty, a little nice.
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mugatu

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Didn't know about the Petite Collection, so that's cool to know! I'm assuming it is the same cut just in smaller sizes to fit smaller frames and men would wear it too.

DH always had smaller sizes for women & the Japanese market. The sizing would have "P" on the sizing tag. Then around 2006 they officially launched the "Petite Taille" collection:

Even overtly feminine women are buying into the menswear trend: Nicole Kidman and Linda Evangelista are both fans of Hedi Slimane's Dior Homme collections. And, next autumn, the label's Petite Taille range, based on its range for men, but designed for women, will be sold at Brown's, London - in its men's boutique.
 

SirGrotius

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Thorns those pics/fragrances are so spot on I almost wonder if Hedi uses something such as that process to ideate certain scents. On a completely random note, I'm reading this fun booked called The Body by Bill Bryson and there are some interesting theories about how our olfactory senses are often overlooked (pun intended) vis-a-vis the eyes, however, scents and aromas bypass the hippocampus and some say create the most lasting impressions and distinct memories.

Back to sight though, I made a recent Celine purchase and there is such as strong, soft aesthetic if that makes sense strewn throughout the website and collections. In particular, I picked up a piece for my better half, and the women's collections are so much stronger than I remember in the SLP days, or at least, more robust and sophisticated. I know SLP femme had strong standout pieces, but it seemed more focused and derivative of the men's collections in my likely myopic view.

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thorns

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I made a recent Celine purchase and there is such as strong, soft aesthetic if that makes sense strewn throughout the website and collections. In particular, I picked up a piece for my better half, and the women's collections are so much stronger than I remember in the SLP days, or at least, more robust and sophisticated.
I can imagine that Celine appeals to a wider demographic for girls. Saint Laurent is a bit edgy for most girls.

I almost wonder if Hedi uses something such as that process to ideate certain scents.
It is interesting from what Hedi has said about his creative process behind fragrances.

It helped me to define the very notion of a couture house but also to define my characters, women and men, to get an inkling of their psychology, their temperament, in the end to reposition the roots of the French spirit specific to Celine.
Hedi definitely imagines the character wearing the fragrance when drafting it. As much as it can be treated as a standalone piece or work, I think for Hedi there is a important component where the wearer helps complete the piece. There has to be a wearer of the fragrance to fully flesh it all out. The wearer's unique temperament and psychology are things that contribute to the final effect the fragrance will have on an audience. Two people wearing the same fragrance might give off a different overall feeling to the same person.

1613308042086.png

Hedi likes to use words for his scent, but it isn't always easy.

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Combination of visuals and words.

Here is some of the examples.
Here, Slimane shares notes from his journal about three of the collection’s fragrances, alongside visual interpretations of their scents created exclusively for T by the British artist Rosanna Webster.

I'm reading this fun booked called The Body by Bill Bryson and there are some interesting theories about how our olfactory senses are often overlooked (pun intended) vis-a-vis the eyes, however, scents and aromas bypass the hippocampus and some say create the most lasting impressions and distinct memories.
I think this is where that madeleine de Proust comes from.
A madeleine de Proust is an expression used to describe smells, tastes, sounds or any sensations reminding you of your childhood or simply bringing back emotional memories from a long time ago.

Hedi's own:
1613308611158.png
 

Adamdraps

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Nightclubbing would be Kate Moss. Cigarette smell that eventually fades into a gentle powdery sweet suede scent. She knows she's sexy. She puts in some effort, but knows she doesn't need to scream in your face how sexy she is to get your attention. Magnetic. A little naughty, a little nice.
View attachment 1555202
View attachment 1555203


Kate Moss :)
 

mugatu

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Chanson Pour Olivia is a banger I won't lie, not a huge fan of the rest of Jacno's work though (granted I've only listened to like 5 other songs).

Yeah it's very quirky and if you're not French and familiar with that early 80s post-punk synth-pop scene it's not going to be very accessible. But Jacno was also part of a certain French subculture coined "Jeunes Gens Moderne" which had its own iconic styling :
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Hedi originally envisioned the Celine reboot around this theme as it was the name of the debut collection. Personally I thought it was brilliant, as a way to contrast the whole SLP L.A. era that didn't sit too well over here in Paris. Alas the referencing way too obscure to translate into mainstream sales. The LA Surf/Rock vibe was a much easier commercial direction to follow at SLP (as was the Pete Doherty indie rock era at DH).

I can see how the SS21 direction could be interpreted as a sign of defeat on a creative level but really it's just smart business in the present context. Also find it interesting that they chose to rebrand the menswear "CELINE HOMME" perhaps as a nod to DH and/or to masculinize what was always known as a womenswear label.
 

thorns

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Hedi originally envisioned the Celine reboot around this theme as it was the name of the debut collection. Personally I thought it was brilliant, as a way to contrast the whole SLP L.A. era that didn't sit too well over here in Paris. Alas the referencing way too obscure to translate into mainstream sales. The LA Surf/Rock vibe was a much easier commercial direction to follow at SLP (as was the Pete Doherty indie rock look at DH).
I feel like Hedi is a bit too ahead of the curve. Mainstream luxury consumers aren't tired to dressing overly casual yet. I can imagine when there would be a desire to go back to tailoring eventually. Despite not being as commercial, I think it was still important as a way to set the tone for Celine. Starting off his reboot with ss21 would be tragic. I feel like Hedi is targeting consumers that want to be part of the Parisian narrative without necessarily being too dressed up. I think it was important Hedi set the foundation of Celine the way he did. I assume those foundational pieces will be available, just not spotlighted?

I can see how the SS21 direction could be interpreted as a sign of defeat on a creative level but really it's just smart business in the present context. Also find it interesting that they chose to rebrand the menswear "CELINE HOMME" perhaps as a nod to DH and/or to masculinize what was always known as a womenswear label.
Yeah, I think that Celine Homme labeling is because people were still confused whether this was Celine Dion's brand or that Celine was only a womenswear brand. Personally I find it tacky since in 2020 they should be able to have a woman's name on a label designing menswear. There isn't Saint Laurent Homme, just Saint Laurent for both men and women. I get how Dior Homme made sense since Hedi's vision was different than the woman's side.
 

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