The OCBD collar roll thread

[Darkside]

Just wondering, are there affordable OCBDs with decent collar roll out there? I know Lean Garments was mentioned here, what about more readily available, mass-market brands? I really just got into this and would like to experiment before making an investment in a Mercer and Son's or Kamakura.

http://www.spierandmackay.com/dress-shirts

Prices are in CAD.

 

[coolarrow]

Just found this thread. I’m looking for slim fit OCBD shirts that have long collar tips (currently available at a retailer). These are the only ones I’ve been able to measure personally (longest to to shortest):
1. New Brooks MiUSA Milano fit: 9 cm.
2. Brooks Malaysia made Milano fit: 8.5 cm.
3. Lands End “Hyde Park” slim fit: 6.75 cm. (too short!)
I don't think Mercer makes a slim fit OCBD, but I could be wrong. I can't get into those tenty ocbds. Do you all know of any others? Thanks.

 

[Billax]

Someone on a menswear forum dealing with Ivy Style apparel asked how to achieve the classic Ivy League collar roll with an Oxford Cloth Button Down shirt. I responded by sketching out the mathematical reasons why the Liberty Bell collar roll is such a classic. I didn't originate this notion, but was led to it by the Scotsman owner of the Campus Ivy store where I was lucky enough to work when I was in college from 1959-1964.

He said something like this: "The perfection of the Classic button-down collar with a four-in-hand tie is the result of the resolved tension between two sets of opposing curves. One opposing pair of ogee curves and another opposing pair of arcs." He had a slight burr, which can't be duplicated in print, but was great to listen to nonetheless. He drew a sketch of what he meant. Below, I have drawn from memory what he drew for me. Most important, I've come to understand how prescient and thoughtful he was. What a grand mentor!

I reproduce here what he drew for me in 1959 or 1960:




Mr. Ross didn't call it the Liberty Bell collar, simply the Classic collar.

Here are few examples of what he taught me. After fifty-four years of practice, I believe my collar roll is almost as good as his!

 

[Billax]

 

[Billax]

 

[Billax]

 

[Billax]

J. Press, white flannel, full canvas, 3 roll 2 blazer with triple patch pockets. BB PPBD and Yale Lacrosse tie.



J. Press 3 roll 2 blazer, J. Press OCBD w/flap pocket, Chipp 2 "Athletic Supporter" tie.

 

[Billax]

J. Press OCBD with flap pocket, J. Press 3 roll 2 jacket of Robert Noble Gamekeeper tweed, J. Press Fox tie and Royal Silk herringbone pocket square.



J. Press "Donegal Mist" sport coat, Old Lands' End OCBD with J. Press Gun Dog and Birder tie.

 

[Billax]

BB 3 roll 2 Madras sack jacket, BB PPBD, and J. Press Linen tie.



Norman Hilton 3 roll 2 Tweed sack, J. Press OCBD w/flap pocket, Sam Hober Paisley tie.

 

[Billax]

J. Press flap pocket OCBD



J. Press 3 roll 2 Glenn Plais sack, Ben Silver 6 button vest, MacNeil and Moore Duck tie, J. Press OCBD flap pocket shirt.

 

[angelescrest]

I could use some help in finding a better OCBD. I have several brooks brothers ocbds I bought last summer, and they are 16 34 and Milano fit. The Milano fit is good for my 32 waist, although depending on preferences one could have it even slimmer. However, as noted elsewhere, their ocbds are a little more snug at the neck than other shirts, partly due to shrinking.

My main issue, however, is that the shoulders are a little snug. I wear a 40R generally, maybe a 41 is a better fit, but my bb ocbds seem like they could use another inch or two at the shoulde as the seam rests more on top of my shoulder than on the edge. The chest, interestingly, I wouldn't say is overly tight, but the shoulder isn't as wide as it should be on me.

So, do u go for a 16.5? I think switching away from a Milano fit would be too wide in the waist for me.

Or should I look for a different manufacturer, like j.Press? Id appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Billax]

O'Connell's 3 roll 2 full canvas sack suit, BB Awning Stripe Broadcloth shirt , LE Trumpet tie


Norman Hilton 3 roll 2 Windowpane Tweed, Yellow J. Press flap pocket OCBD, J. Press Atkinson's Irish Poplin tie.

 

[Billax]

I could use some help in finding a better OCBD. I have several brooks brothers ocbds I bought last summer, and they are 16 34 and Milano fit. The Milano fit is good for my 32 waist, although depending on preferences one could have it even slimmer. However, as noted elsewhere, their ocbds are a little more snug at the neck than other shirts, partly due to shrinking.

My main issue, however, is that the shoulders are a little snug. I wear a 40R generally, maybe a 41 is a better fit, but my bb ocbds seem like they could use another inch or two at the shoulde as the seam rests more on top of my shoulder than on the edge. The chest, interestingly, I wouldn't say is overly tight, but the shoulder isn't as wide as it should be on me.

So, do u go for a 16.5? I think switching away from a Milano fit would be too wide in the waist for me.

Or should I look for a different manufacturer, like j.Press? Id appreciate your thoughts.

I don't know to whom your questions were posed, but I'll offer my personal preferences in response. I, too, have an 8" drop, but I can't abide shoulder seams too narrow or jacket armholes too high. I believe those issues often manifest themselves when one's drop is greater than the garment was designed for. An 8" or greater drop, in my experience, creates issues like the ones you mention. My own resolution to these shirt fit issues is to wear a slightly less restrictive cut and use a "Military Tuck" to diminish the "billowing" of the shirt at the waist. But, I'm an old Geezer, whose style overlap with younger guys is de minimus.

 

[Billax]

Norman Hilton blanket plaid 2 button sack, LL Bean Lambswool sweater, BB OCBD, J. Press Moose tie.




Orvis 3 roll 2 sack with triple patch pockets, in another blanket plaid. Old Land's End Hyde Park OCBD, J. Press game bird tie.

 

[Billax]

More Collar roll shots, all taken with buttoned collars, ties, and sack coats:



O'Connell's 3 roll 2 sport coat, of "Donegal Mist" cloth (60% Wool, 35% Kid Mohair, and 5% Cashmere) hand woven in County Donegal, Ireland. Sam Hober Paisley tie and BB OCBD.



J. Press 3 roll 2 Matka Silk sport coat with triple patch pockets and MoP buttons, Bird Dog Bay Lacrosse tie, with The Knottery Uni Stripe OCBD.