The Japanese Bespoke Tailoring Thread

[Dalaruan]

Another option, if you're going to Osaka, is MTM from Raffaniello. I have no experience working with Higashi-san but he's clearly well-liked.

Link to a post by another SF member who has a MTM jacket from Raffaniello.

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

After speaking with a number of tailors, I decided to go with Mr. Hitchcock for my suit. I have measurements scheduled for when he comes to Los Angeles in May. Very excited to meet him and begin the project. You will be in the best of hands. Any ideas for what you plan to commission?

www.styleforum.net

I have a MTM suit and a bespoke DB jacket from Higashi San and I highly recommend others trying him out.

The suit being MTM is very good, obviously the fit and some details are less impressive than the bespoke jacket, but the turnaround and price means it's an extremely great option if you needed something quick for business, and doesn't need it to be flawless.

Higashi San's DB jackets are beautiful with beautiful silhouette. I guess i really liked the way he shapes the lapel, IIRC he's neapolitan in his training, but i think he's got slightly more structure than a neapolitan jacket, best of both world for me.

He doesn't do trunk show often though, just Thailand afaik, so it's difficult to arrange fitting... My first bespoke order went through one fitting only, not that i regret it but one more fitting would definitely help. Doesn't matter though as I am flying over to place another order with him soon. Really looking forward to it.

 

[KWang94]

I have a MTM suit and a bespoke DB jacket from Higashi San and I highly recommend others trying him out.

The suit being MTM is very good, obviously the fit and some details are less impressive than the bespoke jacket, but the turnaround and price means it's an extremely great option if you needed something quick for business, and doesn't need it to be flawless.

Higashi San's DB jackets are beautiful with beautiful silhouette. I guess i really liked the way he shapes the lapel, IIRC he's neapolitan in his training, but i think he's got slightly more structure than a neapolitan jacket, best of both world for me.

He doesn't do trunk show often though, just Thailand afaik, so it's difficult to arrange fitting... My first bespoke order went through one fitting only, not that i regret it but one more fitting would definitely help. Doesn't matter though as I am flying over to place another order with him soon. Really looking forward to it.

Another option, if you're going to Osaka, is MTM from Raffaniello. I have no experience working with Higashi-san but he's clearly well-liked.

Link to a post by another SF member who has a MTM jacket from Raffaniello.

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

After speaking with a number of tailors, I decided to go with Mr. Hitchcock for my suit. I have measurements scheduled for when he comes to Los Angeles in May. Very excited to meet him and begin the project. You will be in the best of hands. Any ideas for what you plan to commission?

www.styleforum.net

Starting prices for Ring Jacket MTM in Japan are available on their website.

RING JACKET MEISTER ONLINE STORE

RING JACKETオフィシャルサイト。1954年大阪にて創業。『注文服のような着心地の既製服を作ろう』という想いのもとに、独自のパターンと職人技術、良質な素材、生地一枚で仕立てたような柔らかな着心地を追求するインターナショナル　クロージングブランド。

www.ringjacket.co.jp

I was quoted almost 1.5x the listed starting price for a MTM jacket using a fabric from the Fox Journey bunch. I don't believe they carry many (any?) fabrics anywhere close to the starting price.

Thanks guys! Right now, I think I'm leaning more towards Tailor Caid and Raffaniello over RJ, so will have to do a little bit more research as I'm less familiar with the latter.

 

[__k]

Thanks guys! Right now, I think I'm leaning more towards Tailor Caid and Raffaniello over RJ, so will have to do a little bit more research as I'm less familiar with the latter.

Sounds good. Just note that Yamamoto-san will be travelling to NYC for a trunk show at the Armoury and Caïd will be closed from 21-May until the end of the month.

 

[KWang94]

Thanks all for your responses to my questions earlier. Will be meeting Sartoria Raffaniello in late June.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

For the Summer I had a sport coat made up in Fox Air from Coccinella. Although I like the texture of linen and wool silk linen blends, I’m mostly a practical dresser, which means that my options are limited to high twist wools. Of those, Fox is one of the few mills that does patterned high twist wools which work as sport coats.

I was worried about what to style a warm grey sport coat with, but I’ve found that it works well with a lot of things. Blue chambray shirts, light blue or white oxford shirts (and black knit ties), mid grey/darker grey trousers, light brown/taupe trousers, and the list goes on. The worsted gun club pattern draws attention, so it’s not something you could wear discretely two days in a row, but it’s versatile in the sense that it pairs with a lot of CM wardrobe staples well. I’m really enjoying it.

Fox recently updated the Fox Air collection and there are some really nice new patterns. Well worth checking out.



For my next commission, I think it’s time to be sensible and get a navy suit. I wear sport coats more often, and have more fun wearing suits in more casual settings than an office, but it’s time for something a bit more serious. Would appreciate if anyone with experience with the William Halstead Churchill collection gave me their thoughts on how the fabric makes up as a suit, and how the trousers drape and hold a crease. Although it’s the same weight (390g) as Oyster and Botany, it feels a bit fuller and thicker, and a slightly less refined hand. Rustic isn’t the right word though. Botany is finer and more compact by contrast.



The other suit fabric I’m considering is a special run of gabardines done for the Japanese wholesaler Matsuki by Lassiere Mills. It’s very tempting. But I promised myself this time that I would be serious.

 

[dialtone]

Earlier this year, I visited Sartoria Raffaniello in Osaka, Japan, and started an MTM jacket and trousers.

The jacket is a three-roll-two in LP summertime wool/linen/silk with jetted hip pockets and a barchetta breast pocket. The trousers are double reverse pleated in H&S gabardine.

It's sort of difficult to get a good photo without a proper torso form (which I don't own), but hopefully this will give you some idea.

If anybody is interested, Higashi is holding his first trunk show in NYC next month, which I've written about here.

 

[popeyes]

I’ve been following this thread closely and have a question.

Would it be possible to complete a bespoke fitting process in Tokyo within a 3-week travel period?

• Specifically, I’m looking to start with an initial fitting upon arrival, followed by a basted fitting, and then have the final suit delivered by shipment. I’d like to contact the tailors mentioned here, but I’m curious how feasible this timeline would be—assuming I visit the tailor right after I arrive and return for the basted fitting before I leave.

 

[GaiusM]

I’ve been following this thread closely and have a question.

Would it be possible to complete a bespoke fitting process in Tokyo within a 3-week travel period?

• Specifically, I’m looking to start with an initial fitting upon arrival, followed by a basted fitting, and then have the final suit delivered by shipment. I’d like to contact the tailors mentioned here, but I’m curious how feasible this timeline would be—assuming I visit the tailor right after I arrive and return for the basted fitting before I leave.

Probably not. Most have reservation systems and time schedules. If you did find a tailor willing to do so the markup woulf be enormous.

 

[popeyes]

Thank you! I figured the quick turnaround might make it a bit challenging.

It sounds like made-to-measure (MTM) suiting would be the best option for Tokyo.

 

[jonathanS]

I’ve been following this thread closely and have a question.

Would it be possible to complete a bespoke fitting process in Tokyo within a 3-week travel period?

• Specifically, I’m looking to start with an initial fitting upon arrival, followed by a basted fitting, and then have the final suit delivered by shipment. I’d like to contact the tailors mentioned here, but I’m curious how feasible this timeline would be—assuming I visit the tailor right after I arrive and return for the basted fitting before I leave.

You’d have to ask. It seems like Japanese are less likely to accommodate than Italians.

 

[GaiusM]

Thank you! I figured the quick turnaround might make it a bit challenging.

It sounds like made-to-measure (MTM) suiting would be the best option for Tokyo.

Even for MTM that would be a quick turnaround.
Are you deadset on getting something made? Odd body shape or size? Within their standard sizing you can find plenty of excellent RTW in Japan.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

Earlier this year, I visited Sartoria Raffaniello in Osaka, Japan, and started an MTM jacket and trousers.

The jacket is a three-roll-two in LP summertime wool/linen/silk with jetted hip pockets and a barchetta breast pocket. The trousers are double reverse pleated in H&S gabardine.

It's sort of difficult to get a good photo without a proper torso form (which I don't own), but hopefully this will give you some idea.

If anybody is interested, Higashi is holding his first trunk show in NYC next month, which I've written about here.

The jacket's fabric is nice. I like the brighter shade of blue, and the wool silk blend has a bit of dustiness and subtlety to the pattern that I think works well. It would go really nicely with the gabardine trousers.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

I’ve been following this thread closely and have a question.

Would it be possible to complete a bespoke fitting process in Tokyo within a 3-week travel period?

• Specifically, I’m looking to start with an initial fitting upon arrival, followed by a basted fitting, and then have the final suit delivered by shipment. I’d like to contact the tailors mentioned here, but I’m curious how feasible this timeline would be—assuming I visit the tailor right after I arrive and return for the basted fitting before I leave.

Which tailors are you thinking of using?

I think you can, depending on the tailor. My tailor, Chujo-san of Coccinella can do it, but it might take planning if you plan to see him when he's in Tokyo, as he's based in Osaka, and visits Tokyo only occasionally. If you decide to use him, then your plan can work for that schedule.

Tailor Caid's website states that a basted fitting can be done in 2 weeks after first measurements are taken, but I don't know what current lead times are, and if the website is correct. I'm considering doing a commission from them.

For smaller tailors such as Raffaniello or Archie's Bespoke, I don't think this is possible. Tailors like Ciccio are so popular that lead times are as much as one year just for the initial meeting.

In general though, I think there are Japanese tailors who are open to the idea. It may be difficult, but I think it's worth asking.

 

[popeyes]

Which tailors are you thinking of using?

I think you can, depending on the tailor. My tailor, Chujo-san of Coccinella can do it, but it might take planning if you plan to see him when he's in Tokyo, as he's based in Osaka, and visits Tokyo only occasionally. If you decide to use him, then your plan can work for that schedule.

Tailor Caid's website states that a basted fitting can be done in 2 weeks after first measurements are taken, but I don't know what current lead times are, and if the website is correct. I'm considering doing a commission from them.

For smaller tailors such as Raffaniello or Archie's Bespoke, I don't think this is possible. Tailors like Ciccio are so popular that lead times are as much as one year just for the initial meeting.

In general though, I think there are Japanese tailors who are open to the idea. It may be difficult, but I think it's worth asking.

+1. I'll have to keep Coccinella in mind when I do visit Osaka.

I’d love to go with Archie's Bespoke – I really admire his cuts; they look stunning. La Scala at Isetan Shinjuku also seems to offer beautiful Italian-Japanese Neapolitan-style cuts, and I appreciate Yamaguchi-san's attention to detail. I’ll likely reach out to Tailor Caid as well to see if a two-week turnaround for a basted fitting is possible.

If needed, I could extend my trip to 3.5 weeks. Having a bespoke suit made in Japan would truly be the highlight of my trip.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

+1. I'll have to keep Coccinella in mind when I do visit Osaka.

I’d love to go with Archie's Bespoke – I really admire his cuts; they look stunning. La Scala at Isetan Shinjuku also seems to offer beautiful Italian-Japanese Neapolitan-style cuts, and I appreciate Yamaguchi-san's attention to detail. I’ll likely reach out to Tailor Caid as well to see if a two-week turnaround for a basted fitting is possible.

If needed, I could extend my trip to 3.5 weeks. Having a bespoke suit made in Japan would truly be the highlight of my trip.

Yes, Archie's is great, but would be a long-term project. Best of luck with La Scala, and hopefully they can accommodate a short turnaround for the basted fitting.

Ordering bespoke in Japan is difficult, but can be very fun and rewarding too.