The Italian Travel Thread

[maxalex]

For us it is mainly about avoiding the delay and hassle of checking in baggage and especially, baggage claim. I am not especially militant about it, and have gone from on many trips with lots of large cases aplenty but if i can avoid that, i’d like to.

I get that, but generally with international travel you need to go up to the ticket counter sooner or later to show your passport to a human. Maybe not so much anymore? And like I said previously, again when traveling overseas, generally by the time you get through immigration your bags are on the carousel.

But...my gf and I check a bag when traveling from our home in Rome to Paris for a long weekend. As she puts it, "I'm French. I have shoes."

 

[mhip]

generally by the time you get through immigration your bags are on the carousel.

I get it Max, pros and cons. But sometimes your checked bag can be in, Switzerland?
I have the largest allowable carry on back pack.
3 weeks in Italy and I got two pairs of shoes in there, a jacket for restaurants, and everything else I needed.
Also, no roller wheels bouncing the hell out of themselves on the cobblestones.

 

[grippybananas]

My work in progress itinerary for first time in rome

Tue, Nov 14

SIN - FCO
Flight Number SQ 366
Arrive 14/11/2023 8:10 AM GMT+1


Get SIM card
Via Leonardo da Vinci, 3, 00054 Fiumicino, RM, Italy
Edit Plan

Hotel
Via Damiano Chiesa, 8, 00136 Roma RM, Italy


11:30 AM
Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Trevi, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

12:00 PM
Pantheon
Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

4:00 PM
Baths of Caracalla
Baths of Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

Wed, Nov 15

10:00 AM
Domus Aurea
Domus Aurea
Viale Serapide, 00184 Roma RM, Italy


12:00 PM
Capuchin Crypt
Capuchin Crypt, Via Veneto, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

2:00 PM
Colosseum
Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

Thu, Nov 16

7:00 AM
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica, Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City

7:30 AM
St Peter's Dome

9:30 AM
Sistine Chapel
Sistine Chapel
00120, Vatican City

10:00 AM
Vatican Museums
Vatican Museums, Vatican City

Fri, Nov 17

8:10 AM
Roma Termini - Basilica of Santa Maria Novella
ItaliaRail
Arrive: 17/11/2023 9:46 AM GMT+1

10:30 AM
Brunelleschi’s Dome
Brunelleschi's dome, Piazza del Duomo, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Accademia Gallery
Accademia Gallery
Via Ricasoli, 58/60, 50129 Firenze FI, Italy

Piazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Leather school
Scuola del Cuoio S.r.l., Via di San Giuseppe, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Ponte Vecchio
Ponte Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Piazzale Michelangelo
Piazzale Michelangelo, Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Bardini Gardens
Giardino Bardini, Via de' Bardi, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

7:48 PM
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella - Roma Termini
ItaliaRail
Arrive: 17/11/2023 9:25 PM GMT+1

Sat, Nov 18

TBD

Sun, Nov 19

TBD

Mon, Nov 20

TBD

 

[mhip]

My work in progress itinerary for first time in rome

Tue, Nov 14

SIN - FCO
Flight Number SQ 366
Arrive 14/11/2023 8:10 AM GMT+1


Get SIM card
Via Leonardo da Vinci, 3, 00054 Fiumicino, RM, Italy
Edit Plan

Hotel
Via Damiano Chiesa, 8, 00136 Roma RM, Italy


11:30 AM
Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Trevi, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

12:00 PM
Pantheon
Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

4:00 PM
Baths of Caracalla
Baths of Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

Wed, Nov 15

10:00 AM
Domus Aurea
Domus Aurea
Viale Serapide, 00184 Roma RM, Italy


12:00 PM
Capuchin Crypt
Capuchin Crypt, Via Veneto, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

2:00 PM
Colosseum
Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, Rome, Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, Italy

Thu, Nov 16

7:00 AM
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica, Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City

7:30 AM
St Peter's Dome

9:30 AM
Sistine Chapel
Sistine Chapel
00120, Vatican City

10:00 AM
Vatican Museums
Vatican Museums, Vatican City

Fri, Nov 17

8:10 AM
Roma Termini - Basilica of Santa Maria Novella
ItaliaRail
Arrive: 17/11/2023 9:46 AM GMT+1

10:30 AM
Brunelleschi’s Dome
Brunelleschi's dome, Piazza del Duomo, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Accademia Gallery
Accademia Gallery
Via Ricasoli, 58/60, 50129 Firenze FI, Italy

Piazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Leather school
Scuola del Cuoio S.r.l., Via di San Giuseppe, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Ponte Vecchio
Ponte Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Piazzale Michelangelo
Piazzale Michelangelo, Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

Bardini Gardens
Giardino Bardini, Via de' Bardi, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy

7:48 PM
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella - Roma Termini
ItaliaRail
Arrive: 17/11/2023 9:25 PM GMT+1

Sat, Nov 18

TBD

Sun, Nov 19

TBD

Mon, Nov 20

TBD

Nice...
Piazza Navona is really close to the Pantheon, definitely worth walking another couple of blocks.

 

[grippybananas]

I love how europe has so many of those kinds of plazas

 

[majorhancock]

We had a fabulous meal in early November at Enoteca La Torre at the Villa Laetitia hotel (owned by Anna Fendi). It's a Michelin two-star (not to be confused with the company's two other restaurants of the same name in Rome). This one is in the Vittoria district on the left bank of the Tiber, north of the Castello Sant'Angelo. Superb service, amazing amuse-bouche course, and stunning follow-through, with great breads to accompany each course. Opt for the truffle supplement, if available. A splendid and very quiet dining room, with tables spaced for privacy. All of the staff speaks English, for those who have limited Italian skills. One of the best meals of my life and far better than the Michelin three-star La Pergola where we ate last year.

 

[wumpyfish]

Also, just returned, did a quasi bookclub 2 tour for my mother in law. Most of the places we ate were from SF members recommendations I have saved from over the years.
In Rome, Colline Emiliane, flawless
Sorrento, La Cantinaccia del Popolo, stood in line for an hour which I cannot remember ever doing, glad I did,

Il Teatro in Firenze, 100 euros of medium rare Florentine steak split 3 ways, eat til it was too red and then back on the grill for a moment.
Milan, L'Uccellina, risotto osso buco was fantastic. Felt like a fellini film with the owner, his son and the local patrons.
Couple of non Italian SF likes. Chez Fernand in Paris, finally ate thier after several trips. Worth the the wait, beef bourguignon and escargot, magnifique!
The matriarchs choice, Le grand Colbert. Put the english speakers together which is ok, better than I thought it would be. Think I found Dianne Keaton's reading glasses.

Absent footnotes a colossal thank you for those that made the recommendations.

 

[Gus]

Will be in Florence with my wife in early January for four days. Looking for suggestions of favorite Trattorias and Osterias. We can go anywhere in and around the city but are staying on the south side on the Arno.

 

[JamesInLondon]

Will be in Florence with my wife in early January for four days. Looking for suggestions of favorite Trattorias and Osterias. We can go anywhere in and around the city but are staying on the south side on the Arno.

We live for much of the year in Siena and often go to Florence for the day, or two if there is something special at the Strozzi.

South of the Arno try;
Trattoria Quattro Leoni
Via de' Vellutini, 1r
(Piazza della Passera)
Florence
055 218 562
Reservations suggested.
Lovely informal restaurant on the Oltrano side of the river. This is a great area of Florence where lots of the cutting edge designers and shoemakers are located. I love wandering the streets and discovering new exciting design.
The pasta with pear, asparagus and talleggio cheese is to die for!

Osteria di Giovanni
Via Del Moro 22
50123 Florence, Italy
055 284 897
Reservations necessary
http://www.osteriadigiovanni.com

Lovely Osteria with elegant food. Owned by an Italian who married an American/Chinese woman. The two daughters now run the restaurant.
Trattoria Mario
Via Rosina, 2r
50123 Florence
This restaurant is only open for lunch. It is located near the central market. No reservations, you wait in a queue and sit at communal tables.

Florence Restaurants
Trattoria Sostanza
Via della Porcellana, 25
50123 Florence, Italy
055 212691
Reservations necessary, only two sittings per night. Closed on the weekend.
Sostanza is popularly called "Il Troia" (the trough) because people have been lining up at the long communal tables since 1869 to enjoy huge amounts of some of the best traditional food in the city. Limited menu but excellent food and you never know who you will be sitting next to. The meat is simply cooked on the grill by a maestro! Universally agreed to be the best steaks in Florence - but also try the chicken

 

[ppk]

We live for much of the year in Siena and often go to Florence for the day, or two if there is something special at the Strozzi.

South of the Arno try;
Trattoria Quattro Leoni
Via de' Vellutini, 1r
(Piazza della Passera)
Florence
055 218 562
Reservations suggested.
Lovely informal restaurant on the Oltrano side of the river. This is a great area of Florence where lots of the cutting edge designers and shoemakers are located. I love wandering the streets and discovering new exciting design.
The pasta with pear, asparagus and talleggio cheese is to die for!

Osteria di Giovanni
Via Del Moro 22
50123 Florence, Italy
055 284 897
Reservations necessary
http://www.osteriadigiovanni.com

Lovely Osteria with elegant food. Owned by an Italian who married an American/Chinese woman. The two daughters now run the restaurant.
Trattoria Mario
Via Rosina, 2r
50123 Florence
This restaurant is only open for lunch. It is located near the central market. No reservations, you wait in a queue and sit at communal tables.

Florence Restaurants
Trattoria Sostanza
Via della Porcellana, 25
50123 Florence, Italy
055 212691
Reservations necessary, only two sittings per night. Closed on the weekend.
Sostanza is popularly called "Il Troia" (the trough) because people have been lining up at the long communal tables since 1869 to enjoy huge amounts of some of the best traditional food in the city. Limited menu but excellent food and you never know who you will be sitting next to. The meat is simply cooked on the grill by a maestro! Universally agreed to be the best steaks in Florence - but also try the chicken

Concur on Quattro Leoni. Wonderful place and great wines as well. Same with Mario. Haven't been to Sostanza.

 

[mhip]

Trattoria Quattro Leoni

Great recommendation. I loved that place. Their Carciofi all Romana was one of my favorite things I ate in 3 weeks there.

We had dinner at the Golden View restaurant and I'd recommend.
Right next to the Ponte Vecchio and sits on the river on the Oltrarno side. The food was great, they had live jazz.

 

[chobochobo]

@grippybananas. Too late now I guess, but you need to prebook the Pantheon now.

 

[Old Red]

Found this thread last night; finished this morning. I had hoped to see a little Naples information. I've never been to Italy and in February we will spend five days in Naples.

Wife wants to visit Pompeii and I will be happy eating pizza for five days. But I'm sure there are other things we should see. I won't drive but am happy using public transport. Any thoughts?

 

[wumpyfish]

I understand your reticence about driving, just got back and lost both my side view mirrors, Avis was impressed. Looks like you can train to Pompeii, and a little further south is Paestum which is equally impressive imo. We parked the car in Naples (we were staying in Sorrento) and saw the National Archaeological Museum, walked a little of the Spanish quarter and then a taxi to Via Chiaia for menswear sprezzatura. Capri and Ischia can be done by ferry, Capri can be done in a day. Its a touristy cliche but women seem to love it.

 

[majorhancock]

While in Rome recently, we did a long day trip to Montepulciano. One of the surprises was a stop at the Tempio di San Biagio (St. Blaise), just outside the town. It's a small but stunning Renaissance church by Antonio da Sangallo, who influenced Michelangelo. Worth a stop if you're in that part of Tuscany. The hilltown of Montepulciano is also charming, although it involves a lot of uphill walking.