The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

[bapelolol]

Recommendations/price ranges for overcoat tailors?

 

[Penfold]

Ah! Ooooh! Now that is razor sharp. Perhaps Pagoda shoulders suit your frame better than mine but I'm very impressed. Grand Tailor is completely unknown to me. I've asked you enough questions though, so unless you want to introduce me I'll do my own research.

 

[Hifilover]



Nice stuff @add911_11 - is that a 9/10 oz fresco? Am taking some 7/8 oz fresco to Lai soon to make a second pair of trousers for a recent GY suit where I probably specified poorly - (looking for a lower rise, no cuffs, no break, more taper... oh and I've lost a little weight already in the 6 weeks since taking delivery.

It does seem very difficult to get good trouser lines when working with Fresco, particularly the lighter weight version. It bags quite easily and the drape is problematic. Planning to give Lai some linen for trousering at the same time and some navy worsted twill for a blazer so hopefully we'll get closer to a good fit in time for rounds 2 and 3... Lai defaults to quite a thin and sharp shoulder for his house style, no? I've been wondering whether with my wide shoulders and burly frame whether a strong, maybe even slightly extended, shoulder might make my proportions better/less bad.

Being a happy customer of Lai, I am quite sure you will look much slimmer and smarter when you wear Lai's work. I in particular like the thin shoulders of Lai which are difficult to find elsewhere. Give it a try!

 

[add911_11]



Being a happy customer of Lai, I am quite sure you will look much slimmer and smarter when you wear Lai's work. I in particular like the thin shoulders of Lai which are difficult to find elsewhere. Give it a try!

I think Lai's cut is very slim and unique. Totally concurred.

 

[Penfold]

If Lai can make me look slim (and do it this year) then he can name his own price!

 

[add911_11]



If Lai can make me look slim (and do it this year) then he can name his own price!

In some extend, I find Lai's cut too slimming to be unsuitable for real work wear.

 

[hippotamus]

Okuyama actually locates in Hong Kong.

Strange, not sure why I have this image of him in Hong Kong in form of trunk, the last time I check he is pushing the 40K HKD price range.....

 

[TheTukker]



.... I don't see any real problems on your trousers except some minor shortening. In fact the two suits you posted looks very good to me. ....

Going to have to disagree with add911_11; think that Penfold is on to something here:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Nice stuff @add911_11 - is that a 9/10 oz fresco? Am taking some 7/8 oz fresco to Lai soon to make a second pair of trousers for a recent GY suit where I probably specified poorly - (looking for a lower rise, no cuffs, no break, more taper... oh and I've lost a little weight already in the 6 weeks since taking delivery.

It does seem very difficult to get good trouser lines when working with Fresco, particularly the lighter weight version. It bags quite easily and the drape is problematic. Planning to give Lai some linen for trousering at the same time and some navy worsted twill for a blazer so hopefully we'll get closer to a good fit in time for rounds 2 and 3... Lai defaults to quite a thin and sharp shoulder for his house style, no?

I've been wondering whether with my wide shoulders and burly frame whether a strong, maybe even slightly extended, shoulder might make my proportions better/less bad.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Think an extended shoulder may be helpful. Can't find it now, but didn't you post pics of your vintage Huntsman tux somewhere here? That seemed to be a more flattering fit for you.

 

[Penfold]

Thanks @TheTukker - it will in this post from the Unfunded Liabilities thread the other day when we had an impromptu Hong Konger takeover (Occupy?!

) and it all got a bit O/T.



This is a Huntsman, someone else's bespoke of course, but the chest canvassing feels incredibly heavy by comparison to any of my HK stuff and the cloth is an old barathea that must be 15 oz+. Perfect for a draughty English country home, especially with a waistcoat as well to keep the chill off. Heating is cheating...

I want to try a harder coat but the extra cost in making the chest canvas shaped with stiffer canvassing, domette and so on, to say nothing of the skills involved which aren't much in demand these days, probably makes it hard to find in Hong Kong.

Canvas construction in HK means something like this, from my second YWY suit






which looked pretty good on the day of collection



but which has gone lumpy, bumpy and unsupportive very quickly as per the Yao v Yu comparison photos posted upthread. Only the robustness of the 13oz H&S worsted keeps it from being garbage. After an hour or so on the body the chest smooths out a bit but that's hardly impressive.

When I went to Gordon Yao I thought I'd be getting a more crafted chest canvas, and I did explain the problems I'd had with YWY to Gordon, but the canvas appeared much the same in construction at least. But the results have been better, and that's using the light 7/8 oz fresco 0500.

However a slightly extended shoulder would work a little for me I think. Aiming for something like Connery's hacking jacket from Goldfinger



Source: https://bamfstyle.wordpress.com/2013/06/11/goldfinger-hacking-jacket-db5/

So given the long waiting list and Lai's preference for a very slim shoulder and neat fit, which probably won't suit me then maybe I'll try looking elsewhere. Grand Tailor, if they speak English, or CMT at A-Man.

 

[Fishball]

I think Grand may be a better choice than Lai if you like "hard" bristish style.
Actually, the machine sewn canvas is harder than hand padded, so I don't think it is the cause of your suit problem.
I think it look more like the canvas and the front cut has a little "mismatch" it make the front can't stay flat.

 

[chobochobo]



In some extend, I find Lai's cut too slimming to be unsuitable for real work wear.

I like Lai's cut. Or at least, what we've worked out together. After a busy CNY, his average waiting time is 1-2 months now which is fine by me.

 

[Penfold]

It may become necessary to try both.

 

[LearnerFromHK]

Hi everyone. I am a newbie to this Forum.

I am a HK local and have spent the past two days reading from the beginning to the end of this thread. Thank you for all the input. While it is quite a regret to see that some of the old very knowledgable contributors stopped contributing in recent months, it is good to see some other experienced members joining in.

As most others, I join here to ask questions, to take advantage of the experience and knowledge of others. I hope I can get some advice here. I gather that some of the questions may be found in some other threads, but those threads are hundreds of pages long, and many of the pics are outdated. In any case, I may be able to get some more Asian specific advice here. If I have in any way violated any rules or my questions should not be asked in this thread, I do apologise.

I am now in my late 20s and am in the legal industry. I haven't had any new suit for the past 2-3 years because I do not need to wear suit very often. Most of my time is spent in office without seeing any client and I can wear jeans to work. (At first I wanted to wear a suit, but I would look very out of place when everyone else is being casual.)

But the situation is starting to change, in that I need to see clients much more often and I have to go to Court more. So it is time I start building up my wardrobe with new suits. I am an Asian and have a slim body. I have tried to go for RTW, but even the smallest slim cut suit seems two sizes too big. So I started to have them tailor made. I tried 4 tailors before. I started knowing nothing and now I still know nothing. I would just go by whatever the tailor suggests and if they say ok, I trust it's ok and will take that away. At first, I was happy that I got something which isn't two sizes too big. But soon I know that some are sub-standard, or even below sub-standard. I shouldn't complain about the first two because I get what I paid for. William Yu (not Y William Yu) disappointed me considering that they were charging me substantially more (nowhere near WW Chan of course). I had much trust in them but I later discovered that the jacket doesn't fit well, and because of my poor suit care (in that I actually have the pants washed), the pants are not longer wearable (although I am not sure why the same didn't happen to other suit pants).

The last one I used was recommended to me by my colleague and I had one 3 pc suit made by him. I was told that some big figure in the legal industry also use him as the tailor (but that does not necessarily mean that he is good). He came up to my office to have me measured. There was one or two fittings (I forgot) and it was also done in my office. He brought the suit to my place and he told me no more alteration was needed and I took it. I have no complaints but I really know nothing. Some of the pictures looked fine to me when the experienced people here are telling the poster to BURN IT.

So my QUESTION 1 is about the last tailor. He is known to me as Ah Sam Si Fu. Has anyone heard of him? I will in a few days post some pics of myself in that suit he made me and can I have some comments as to whether I should go to him again?

My QUESTION 2 is about other tailors. I gather that it is better to have more than 1 tailors (or may be not? please advise). So whom should I try next? There are quite a number of names mentioned. I am relatively young and I look even younger and I do want to look young (but not ridiculous) (I gather that a young face in an old-styled suit would be quite a mismatch?). Which is better in making something slightly more modern and/or fashionable, particularly when I don't really know what I want beyond this? I wouldn't be able to tell what sort of fabric, button hole I like, what sort of lapel width I like, etc etc. Given I speak Cantonese, would there be more less famous local tailors I can go to?

QUESTION 3 is about fabric. What type of fabric is suitable for Hong Kong weather? Is it meaningful to have a winter suit and a summer one, given the winter in HK is not cold at all, except maybe for a week or so. Where can I learn a bit more about choice of fabric? (I know there is a cloth thread but should I be going through it cos as far as I can see the pics on the first page can't even be loaded?)

QUESTION 4 is not really that much about tailors themselves but what I should be looking for in terms of style. I am totally clueless. Where should I start if I want to be on a slightly modern side? I am 172 cm, but with a very bad proportion. My neck and head take up an unreasonably big proportion of my total height. Then the torso took up much more than I wanted. So I have some experience like this: I stand next to a person. My waist level is quite a bit below his, my shoulder level is below his but less so, but I am actually taller than he is. With such a body proportion, what areas should I be paying special attention.

QUESTION 5 is a stupid one. It shows how the level of knowledge (if any) I have. There are occasions which requires me to wear a 3 pc suit. But when I do not need to, can I just take away the vest and pretend it's a 2 pc?

QUESTION 6 is a greedy (and still stupid) one and may be a little premature. When I have picked the tailor and then I go for the first fitting, I really won't know what to change and what not. Is there any way I can get comments in SF? From my past experience, it seems I have to tell them my requests right away.

I would appreciate if someone can comment on these or some of these. If you want to or need to be harsh, please be. I firmly believe that people grow faster in criticisms. I shall be posting pictures of the suit made by Ah Sam Si Fu later in the week. When I have chosen the tailor later, I shall be posting pictures (unless it is not welcomed here) to share my experience with other as inexperienced as I am. Thanks in advance.

 

[TheTukker]



Thanks @TheTukker - it will in this post from the Unfunded Liabilities thread the other day when we had an impromptu Hong Konger takeover (Occupy?! ) and it all got a bit O/T.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

This is a Huntsman, someone else's bespoke of course, but the chest canvassing feels incredibly heavy by comparison to any of my HK stuff and the cloth is an old barathea that must be 15 oz+. Perfect for a draughty English country home, especially with a waistcoat as well to keep the chill off. Heating is cheating... I want to try a harder coat but the extra cost in making the chest canvas shaped with stiffer canvassing, domette and so on, to say nothing of the skills involved which aren't much in demand these days, probably makes it hard to find in Hong Kong. Canvas construction in HK means something like this, from my second YWY suit

Spoiler: Machine stitched chest canvas photos

which looked pretty good on the day of collection

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

but which has gone lumpy, bumpy and unsupportive very quickly as per the Yao v Yu comparison photos posted upthread. Only the robustness of the 13oz H&S worsted keeps it from being garbage. After an hour or so on the body the chest smooths out a bit but that's hardly impressive. When I went to Gordon Yao I thought I'd be getting a more crafted chest canvas, and I did explain the problems I'd had with YWY to Gordon, but the canvas appeared much the same in construction at least. But the results have been better, and that's using the light 7/8 oz fresco 0500.

However a slightly extended shoulder would work a little for me I think. Aiming for something like Connery's hacking jacket from Goldfinger

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Source: https://bamfstyle.wordpress.com/2013/06/11/goldfinger-hacking-jacket-db5/ So given the long waiting list and Lai's preference for a very slim shoulder and neat fit, which probably won't suit me then maybe I'll try looking elsewhere. Grand Tailor, if they speak English, or CMT at A-Man.

Thanks Penfold - I think that Huntsman (although bespoke for some else and not buttoned up) looks much better on you, so certainly worth giving the extended shoulder a try. In fact, if I were you, I would just take that jacket with me to my tailor and use it as a starting point.

 

[GBR]



Hi everyone.  I am a newbie to this Forum.

I am a HK local and have spent the past two days reading from the beginning to the end of this thread.  Thank you for all the input.  While it is quite a regret to see that some of the old very knowledgable contributors stopped contributing in recent months, it is good to see some other experienced members joining in.

As most others, I join here to ask questions, to take advantage of the experience and knowledge of others.  I hope I can get some advice here.  I gather that some of the questions may be found in some other threads, but those threads are hundreds of pages long, and many of the pics are outdated.  In any case, I may be able to get some more Asian specific advice here.  If I have in any way violated any rules or my questions should not be asked in this thread, I do apologise.

I am now in my late 20s and am in the legal industry.  I haven't had any new suit for the past 2-3 years because I do not need to wear suit very often.  Most of my time is spent in office without seeing any client and I can wear jeans to work.  (At first I wanted to wear a suit, but I would look very out of place when everyone else is being casual.)

But the situation is starting to change, in that I need to see clients much more often and I have to go to Court more.  So it is time I start building up my wardrobe with new suits.  I am an Asian and have a slim body.  I have tried to go for RTW, but even the smallest slim cut suit seems two sizes too big.  So I started to have them tailor made.  I tried 4 tailors before.  I started knowing nothing and now I still know nothing.  I would just go by whatever the tailor suggests and if they say ok, I trust it's ok and will take that away.  At first, I was happy that I got something which isn't two sizes too big.  But soon I know that some are sub-standard, or even below sub-standard.  I shouldn't complain about the first two because I get what I paid for.  William Yu (not Y William Yu) disappointed me considering that they were charging me substantially more (nowhere near WW Chan of course).  I had much trust in them but I later discovered that the jacket doesn't fit well, and because of my poor suit care (in that I actually have the pants washed), the pants are not longer wearable (although I am not sure why the same didn't happen to other suit pants).

The last one I used was recommended to me by my colleague and I had one 3 pc suit made by him.  I was told that some big figure in the legal industry also use him as the tailor (but that does not necessarily mean that he is good).  He came up to my office to have me measured.  There was one or two fittings (I forgot) and it was also done in my office.  He brought the suit to my place and he told me no more alteration was needed and I took it.  I have no complaints but I really know nothing.  Some of the pictures looked fine to me when the experienced people here are telling the poster to BURN IT.

So my QUESTION 1 is about the last tailor.  He is known to me as Ah Sam Si Fu.  Has anyone heard of him?  I will in a few days post some pics of myself in that suit he made me and can I have some comments as to whether I should go to him again?

My QUESTION 2 is about other tailors.  I gather that it is better to have more than 1 tailors (or may be not? please advise).  So whom should I try next?  There are quite a number of names mentioned.  I am relatively young and I look even younger and I do want to look young (but not ridiculous) (I gather that a young face in an old-styled suit would be quite a mismatch?).  Which is better in making something slightly more modern and/or fashionable, particularly when I don't really know what I want beyond this?  I wouldn't be able to tell what sort of fabric, button hole I like, what sort of lapel width I like, etc etc.  Given I speak Cantonese, would there be more less famous local tailors I can go to?

QUESTION 3 is about fabric.  What type of fabric is suitable for Hong Kong weather?  Is it meaningful to have a winter suit and a summer one, given the winter in HK is not cold at all, except maybe for a week or so.  Where can I learn a bit more about choice of fabric?  (I know there is a cloth thread but should I be going through it cos as far as I can see the pics on the first page can't even be loaded?)

QUESTION 4 is not really that much about tailors themselves but what I should be looking for in terms of style.  I am totally clueless.  Where should I start if I want to be on a slightly modern side?  I am 172 cm, but with a very bad proportion.  My neck and head take up an unreasonably big proportion of my total height.  Then the torso took up much more than I wanted.  So I have some experience like this: I stand next to a person.  My waist level is quite a bit below his, my shoulder level is below his but less so, but I am actually taller than he is.  With such a body proportion, what areas should I be paying special attention.

QUESTION 5 is a stupid one.  It shows how the level of knowledge (if any) I have.  There are occasions which requires me to wear a 3 pc suit.  But when I do not need to, can I just take away the vest and pretend it's a 2 pc?

QUESTION 6 is a greedy (and still stupid) one and may be a little premature.  When I have picked the tailor and then I go for the first fitting, I really won't know what to change and what not.  Is there any way I can get comments in SF?  From my past experience, it seems I have to tell them my requests right away.

I would appreciate if someone can comment on these or some of these.  If you want to or need to be harsh, please be.  I firmly believe that people grow faster in criticisms.  I shall be posting pictures of the suit made by Ah Sam Si Fu later in the week.  When I have chosen the tailor later, I shall be posting pictures (unless it is not welcomed here) to share my experience with other as inexperienced as I am.  Thanks in advance.

Welcome.

To pick off your questions, I would recommend that you only have ONE tailor and then try to develop a relationship with him so that he understands what you want/like and value and refine his pattern for your suits.

Cloth

I would suggest that you need a light weight wool, let no one suggest you have any man made fibre in it.

Question 4

You are a lawyer and that profession is uniquely conservation and I recall that the HOG Kong judiciary is largely based on the English one with all the customs still in place. Therefore stay conservative in what you commission - both for style and cloth. If later you want a suit for social occasions then is the opportunity to perhaps experiment a little.

Question 5

Yes you can leave the waist coat at home unless you are in court. That is no problem. Alternately you could have a double breasted suit although I suspect that you are too young for that just yet!

Question 6

You need to choose a tailor with whom you can build trust. You also want a reliable one. I doubt anyone will have heard of the guy mention but it would be interesting to see his work. If you do post pictures, then remember to do full front/back with an without the coat. A photograph of the inside of the coat can show the neatness of his work.

Now I do not know your means but whatever you do avoid all the Asian touts that you will find in TST, they are simply pushing sweat shops who make glued garments of which one thing is certain - they will not fit. If you can afford it I would strongly suggest that you go to Gordon Yao whose shop is on the first floor of the Royal Garden Hotel on Mody Street in Kowloon. Gordon is an excellent tailor of the old school and will stand you in long term stead. Ignore the one recent post about problems with him, I have never heard of that and the p[poster did not substantiate his words. I have used GY for many years and have never been disappointed. In fact I will be calling on him shortly.

You need to consider many pieces of detail in advance so that you do not forget them when commissioning. If you want to see a list I prepared some while ago let me know and I will post it off board for you.

Good luck in your quest.